I already searched and read the thread that covers VTEC issues (among about 20 other threads) but I still cannot find a solution. I have a OBD1 H22A JDM motor swapped into a 2000 Civic Ex. I am using a OBD2 to OBD1 Jumper and a chipped JDM P08 ECU.

- The engine runs fine other than VTEC not working
- No check engine light is on (verified the light works upon ignition)
- VSS and Tach both work fine
- Vehicle is at normal operating temp
- Oil pan was dented so I dropped it and hammered out the "cave in". I noticed that the oil pick-up was partially bent on the dome part so I carefully bent it back with a screw driver.
- Checked solenoid and the magnet works and it clicks when connected to 12v
- Checked both screens on the upper solenoid and lower spool and they are clean. The seals also look good and there aren't any leaks
- I checked the solenoid and the VTEC pressure switch and they both have continuity from the ECU to the engine plugs
- I thought the ECU was bad but I got a hold of a chipped P28 off a running car that waas hitting VTEC but when I swapped it into mine I still don't get VTEC


The only thing I can think of now is to check the oil pressure but I'm not sure where and how much a gauge would cost. I found a couple mechanics through Craig's List. They work at shops and claim to have years of experience swapping Honda motors but they both couldn't figure out what was wrong. One guy took off my oil cap while the car was running and used his hand to get an idea of what the pressure was? I thought that was weird but I didn't have to pay anything to have him look at it.

I've been at this for weeks and any help would be appreciated. If anyone knows of a solid expert Honda mechanic in the socal area I'm open to pay someone to figure it out. I live in Long beach but I'm willing to drive. I'm at wicks end right now and I really hope someone can help.

Greenz

 

Does you h22 have and oil pressure switch? I just swapped an h23 blue top vtec in my 1992 prelude. My vtec didnt engage and had a cel light for the oil switch. I tried jumping A4 and D6 like your supposed to and didnt solve anything. So i had the idea to just leave the a4 wire connected and i grounded the d6 pin to the chassis. Worked great vtec engaged and cell went away. hope this helps.

 

Yes, I have a VTPS but I didn't throw a CEL ligh,t so at first I didn't try that. After I couldn't get it to run right, I did try jumping it between A4 and D6 but I still didn't hit VTEC.

I do have a question about jumping A4 and D6 though. I jumped the power wire off the VTPS to the VTS wire but I left the VTPS plugged into the head. I thought about it and I figured I should unplug the VTPS just in case it was faulty. I ran the car and still no VTEC and no CEL. I read that you should ground the VTPS on one of the three bolts on the head but I didn't do that since the VTPS was grounded through the harness already. Is that a mistake?

 

Wait a second. I just re-read your post. You just grounded D6. Did you leave your VTPS plugged in? I'm trying to figure out if you piggy backed from D6 to ground or if you cut D6 and ran it straight to ground?

Sorry if this is confusing you.

 

My motor didnt come with a vtec oil pressure switch. Some jdm motors dont have them. All tech guides tell you to jump a4 and d6 with a wire. I tried that and it didnt work. So I just grounded and d6 pin with a wire to the chassis, and problem solved. I also think I read that vtps have two wires, one to d6 and the other ground.

 

Try leaving a4 hooked up and just try grounding d6. No jump wire should be hooked up

 

I'll try that tomorrow after work. Thanks for the feedback. I'll post results.

 

Anyone else have a suggestion that could help?

 

bump

 

You need to test the oil pressure like you already posted, if it were something electronic you'd get a CEL every time you tried to use VTEC.

Go to spoonertuner.com and download the 4th gen service manual, the second one and on page 6-5 there is a trouble shooting flow chart for the VTEC system. Go through it start to finish and you should find your problem.

 

Good call. I tested the pressure yesterday and I'm getting 70 psi at 5k RPM. I was happy about that. When I get home I'm going to run a wire from the battery into the cab of the car and then a wire from the solenoid to the cab of the car. I'll have a friend manually activate the switch at about 5.5k to see if VTEC cracks. If that doesn't work then I'll go through the trouble shooting process. I actually already downloaded the trouble shooting diagram.

Thank you.

 

OK I'm confused. I have an h22a with a p06 chipped ecu. I have a pressure switch on my vtec solenoid and trying to bypass it because I have a c.e.l. 22. So what is being said is to ground it in the engine bay AND on the ecu end of it?...

 

Why are you trying to bypass it. Bypassing is harder than to just hook it up correctly. Odds are that you need to completely open up the back of the ecu connector and stick it in all the way then close the back of the connector. I had this issue too. Just do it correctly and be done with it. For some reason this particular pin tries to pop itself out if you try to just slide it in and the others don't slide out. Just open the back of the connector and slide it in. It won't just jam in without opening the back.

Make sure your oil pan isn't dented or it will throw the code too.