95 GSR Driver's Door/lock problem
Recently went to unlock the driver's door, using the keyfob from the aftermarket keyless system I had put in couple of years ago. You could hear the actuator move the lock, and then the door would lock itself again. Once I figured out I could get the passenger door open if I hit the button and quickly lifted the handle, I got to the driver's side and tried to open the door. Using the manual lock button did same thing as the keyfob, you could hear the door lock then immediately re-lock. Pushing the lock back and forth, i.e. the physical black/red thing, would not work. Feels like maybe something came apart, etc.
So my ase buddy cuts the door panel on that side, and manages to force the latch open. Pulled the door panel, looking for problems. Rods were attached, actuator seems ok, latch also.
Think we got it, door can be unlocked all three ways, but then it starts happening again a day later.
So, what's the best bet, actuator, latch, or just get some grease and lube baby lube?
Side note, the same day of this problem, I put the clutch in and it kinda sinks sickeningly and never comes up...look in the reservoir...oops bone dry! So my slave leaked out.
Anyway, thanks for any guidance/insight.
Still love my 95!
So my ase buddy cuts the door panel on that side, and manages to force the latch open. Pulled the door panel, looking for problems. Rods were attached, actuator seems ok, latch also.
Think we got it, door can be unlocked all three ways, but then it starts happening again a day later.
So, what's the best bet, actuator, latch, or just get some grease and lube baby lube?
Side note, the same day of this problem, I put the clutch in and it kinda sinks sickeningly and never comes up...look in the reservoir...oops bone dry! So my slave leaked out.
Anyway, thanks for any guidance/insight.
Still love my 95!
Ive seen issues with the lock position sensor (inside the door handle) where either the connecting rod was broken or sensor itself quit working. Not positive if that would cause it for sure though...
Start by unplugging the drivers door actuator, it has a switch in it for "central locking", if problem goes away, pass door lock works and you can lock and unlock the drivers door manually, replace the actuator or you can cut/depin the blue/white lead at the actuator or at the power door lock control unit. 94
That sounds reasonable. I still have my "special" ghetto panel with duct tape holding it together, so very easy to get in there to work.
Good source for an actuator? Guessing local Honda will be a ripoff...
Thanks for the advice!!!
Good source for an actuator? Guessing local Honda will be a ripoff...
Thanks for the advice!!!
Check at your local bone yards, there are 21 PicknPulls in CA... http://www.picknpull.com/locations.aspx 94
Thanks for the salvage yard idea, but sadly we don't have one close. Ebay, that's looking pretty good. Around $50 delivered. The local "stealer" wants $250 for new. The ecu I got used on Ebay is still working, so I think that's my route.
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I have a set from a 2000 LS, part numbers are the same as a 95 GSR.
I pulled them from the 2000 LS at our local Picknpull one day when I was pulling stuff I actually needed, [I have aftermarket ones in my 94 Integra] thinking I may use them, if you have no luck finding one I may be persuade to part with them. 94
I pulled them from the 2000 LS at our local Picknpull one day when I was pulling stuff I actually needed, [I have aftermarket ones in my 94 Integra] thinking I may use them, if you have no luck finding one I may be persuade to part with them. 94
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Mychal71
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Mar 20, 2022 01:32 PM




