koni gc vs tein flex
ok first i have a couple of questions right now i have tein basics but they bottem out alot and are not stiff at all.. i need somthing way stiffer.. im from the east coast and the roads suck here.. anyway i eather want the koni gc all the best options with the top hats and everything.. i kno they have different spring rates so i would just get the max on everything
or i was lookin at the tein mono flex or tein flex i got these spring rates here
Spring Rate 559 392 flex
Front: 780 lbs/in
Rear: 450 lbs/in mono
and for the koni ground controls i can go to the website and put
430 and 430..
im not really sure what progressive and linier mean but are they all the same spring kind?
also the koni gc top hats look awsome.. it sucks that they only go on those coilovers.. im not sure how the tein top hats are or which one would be better..
i just need the best one thats not going to bottem out and thats very stiff..
also the ksport and d2s are very popular on the east coast im not sure about the spring ratres i think the ksport is
549f 280r so thats even better then the koni gc front it seems hmm
its for a 1992 civic si by the way and insight would be great thanks
or i was lookin at the tein mono flex or tein flex i got these spring rates here
Spring Rate 559 392 flex
Front: 780 lbs/in
Rear: 450 lbs/in mono
and for the koni ground controls i can go to the website and put
430 and 430..
im not really sure what progressive and linier mean but are they all the same spring kind?
also the koni gc top hats look awsome.. it sucks that they only go on those coilovers.. im not sure how the tein top hats are or which one would be better..
i just need the best one thats not going to bottem out and thats very stiff..
also the ksport and d2s are very popular on the east coast im not sure about the spring ratres i think the ksport is
549f 280r so thats even better then the koni gc front it seems hmm
its for a 1992 civic si by the way and insight would be great thanks
I can tell you have only a vague idea about what you're talking about. "The max on everything", "the best options", "not sure what progressive and linear mean" and "top hats look awesome." sounds incredibly uninformed.
Define "something way stiffer".
How low do you plan on slamming these?
What is your budget?
Is he car only a daily driver?
BTW, roads are shitty everywhere.
Define "something way stiffer".
How low do you plan on slamming these?
What is your budget?
Is he car only a daily driver?
BTW, roads are shitty everywhere.
well the roads are very bad on long island.. i need the stiffest out of those i mentened.. i have no budget.. its going to be very low and not used for race at all.. the most expensive is the mono then the flex the koni
are these all progressive or linier? and which top hats are better
are these all progressive or linier? and which top hats are better
Last edited by swizz977; Jan 3, 2012 at 04:07 PM.
ah really thats close to me im in nassau. yea the roads suck.. idk the koni/gc is making it seem like the top hats help not bottem out.. im not sure about the tein top hats but.. my car is low so i just need something stiff that wont bottem out.. i think the monos mite be over kill with those spring rates but my friend had flex's they rode really really nice.. never felt koni gc but everyone raves about them.. and the guy at vraceworks said d2s are the best for lowered cars on the eastcoast..
so my question.. for a very low car which would be least likely to bottem out??
so my question.. for a very low car which would be least likely to bottem out??
Any of those cheap POS coilovers he mentioned can go low. problem is you never said how low you're planning on taking it. K/GC with 500-600 springs rates will get you low but your ride will be shitty. You cannot go low and have a comfortable ride.
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koni's with the re-valve and those spring rates aren't that bad.
There is no such thing as being low and having a good ride or not bottoming out. Its impossible. If you are low then either your shocks will bottom out or your upper control arms will hit teh shock towers.
I have koni yellows and GC coilovers with some custom rates and the ride is pretty good. Im not lowered much at all and my front shocks hit the bump stops on some bad potholes or going over a speed bump too fast.
So basically good luck with no bottoming out
Get the stiffest springs you can get with the shocks you pick out and go from there but the ride will be very harsh too.
ok well i just talked to the guy at weksos about the koni gcs.. he said that a lot of people ride them very low but he said the top hats wouldnt be what i want since im lookin for very stiff and not a lot of shock movement.. which was strange becuase i thought the top hats would be better for going low so i wasnt too sure what he was talkin about..
ok well i just talked to the guy at weksos about the koni gcs.. he said that a lot of people ride them very low but he said the top hats wouldnt be what i want since im lookin for very stiff and not a lot of shock movement.. which was strange becuase i thought the top hats would be better for going low so i wasnt too sure what he was talkin about..
let me guess he wanted to sell you a different set of coilovers? D2's? function & form? lol
yea well i told him i wanted to go low and he said the top hats are for more shock travel movement and he said i wouldnt want that i would want least shock travel movement since im going to be pretty low..
I've had my Tein Flexes for 40k miles/6 years and still love them.
You need to stop calling people and not even think about spending a dime until you know what you are even looking at. Let me give you a quick rundown:
Progressive spring rates change with compression. The more the spring travels, the stiffer the rate becomes. Linear spring rates are just that, linear. They have the same spring rate no matter how much compression the spring receives.
First you say that your roads are crap and you are bottoming out, then you say that you want to lower your car? Do you know the consequences of lowering your car too much? Oil pan, blown shocks, terrible ride, and for what? To look like an idiot! A lowered car is not fast, your damn LCAs are beyond horizontal and suspension binds.
If you want to stop bottoming out, go for a properly dampened system that can perform and comfort you for your terrible roads.
Have you even figured out how you might want to correct factory understeer? Spring rate front to rear bias? Sway bar setup? Whether or not to do camber kits. **If you are dumped, it's best to help for cornering purposes because you won't need -5 Deg camber bouncing around like a loser.**
What do you use the car for? I don't see why a normal koni yellow/gc combo with 350/350 spring rates wouldn't be acceptable for your application. With a 1/4" positive rake and set to a moderate coil level, you could have great stability over any bumpy surface while ridding of just about all car related understeer/body lean problems.
Next you're going to tell us you plan on getting a 32mm ASR sway/tie combo because your tires are rubbing.
This might be harsh, but you need to get your **** straight before starting another pointless thread.
You need to stop calling people and not even think about spending a dime until you know what you are even looking at. Let me give you a quick rundown:
Progressive spring rates change with compression. The more the spring travels, the stiffer the rate becomes. Linear spring rates are just that, linear. They have the same spring rate no matter how much compression the spring receives.
First you say that your roads are crap and you are bottoming out, then you say that you want to lower your car? Do you know the consequences of lowering your car too much? Oil pan, blown shocks, terrible ride, and for what? To look like an idiot! A lowered car is not fast, your damn LCAs are beyond horizontal and suspension binds.
If you want to stop bottoming out, go for a properly dampened system that can perform and comfort you for your terrible roads.
Have you even figured out how you might want to correct factory understeer? Spring rate front to rear bias? Sway bar setup? Whether or not to do camber kits. **If you are dumped, it's best to help for cornering purposes because you won't need -5 Deg camber bouncing around like a loser.**
What do you use the car for? I don't see why a normal koni yellow/gc combo with 350/350 spring rates wouldn't be acceptable for your application. With a 1/4" positive rake and set to a moderate coil level, you could have great stability over any bumpy surface while ridding of just about all car related understeer/body lean problems.
Next you're going to tell us you plan on getting a 32mm ASR sway/tie combo because your tires are rubbing.
This might be harsh, but you need to get your **** straight before starting another pointless thread.
ok first thing u guys need to understand i dont care about handeling i just need somthing stiff.. im going to be tucking some 16 40 series.. im just trying to see which out of these 2 would be the best for that.. and by the way i do have a asr..
Toss a coin. That's about as technical as your thought process has been to this point so it won't make a difference. Before you do that fix your busted rear camber bolt and install that camber kit correctly.
gangstah!
So do it already and stop driving like that. What is your malfunction? Do you just like talking? Sorry you have POS shops that aren't capable of simple jobs.
It's really sad how often we see this, just saying D2 and good in the same sentence says it all.. I'll try to set something up, maybe i can get some people to help... grumble?
We really need to get the point across that people need to learn how suspension works, what it does.. so many are just flat out clueless.
We really need to get the point across that people need to learn how suspension works, what it does.. so many are just flat out clueless.





