I'm picking up a set of Function Form type 1's for my ef hatch. I've read that when they put the fronts as low as they go, there is still an inch and a half wheel gap, but others have said there are no problems and they are tucking tire..

Post pics of your EF on Function Form coilovers, and let me know how much farther you can drop, or what methods you used to get the front lower (if it is even a problem?)

and yes, i have searched and done research.

 

All of these have Form & Function full coil-overs. Seems to me they do what you want then to do - which is ruin the vehicle in my opinion. The last one is my favorite.

 

^^^x2 dont ruin your ef by doing the ricy stance thing its pointless its money wasted and also you cant even drive with out worrying that your gonna mess up something...

 

my ideal ride height is no wheel gap (tire is lined up with wheel arch). just a little higher than the hatch you posted.


i dont want to go stoopid low, i want it to be dd'able without being a pain, but at the same time look less like a minivan.

my main concern is that i've read that the front end on EF's still leaves like an inch of wheel gap with the F&F's as low as theyll go. I dont know if this is true for sure because other people have posted that they can get tire tuck. I'm looking for firsthand experience i guess, if someone can tell me how low they got their EF on function forms, and what methods they used to get lower (if it is a problem)

thanks for the pics btw

 

its amazing how many times this has been asked.

ok this is mine on f&f type 2's, i drive this everyday. been to autocon last month, oktoberfest. those were shows in socal. i live in norcal. its not hard... dont really have a front shot, will take one later


i suggest type 2's because of the dampening control. type 1's dont have this. theyll last longer. had mine like this for about 2 years now no problems.
other then axels now starting to go. knew it was coming



front on the left, and all coilovers have the lower mount spun to lowest ride height position... in order from bottom of coilover to top, not including the threaded shock it self:

cup/lower mount ,mount lock, lower perch lock, lower perch, spring, top hat

in between mount lock and lower perch, removed lower perch lock and spun lower perch to lower mount lock. voila 1.5" lower in the front.
rears are left alone . keep in mind that it does void the warranty with f&f. and your on your own if it blows.. ive just been lucky i guess. this is changing the preload, thus why it voids the warranty

i've been redesigning a set forks to incorporate the lower coilover mount. so i can just thread the coilover directly into the fork and then lock ,
have full travel and on top of the current low already be another 1.5" lower. rears, redesigned trailing arms to keep full travel.

stay static all day.

but for your ideal set up they will do just fine. change the lower mount height. and theres your setup.

 

thanks for that info, does removing the lower perch lock and spinning the lower perch change the preload though?

 

yes. changing those 2 pieces is changing the preload.

 

darn, do you know if swapping the top hats for the stock ones helps? or using eg forks?

 

neither. eg forks wont fit on the lower mount, and swapping to factory top hats will raise like 2mm.
havent tried using gc extended top hats yet. may help with shock travel. probably what i need, but i dont know if theyll work with my type 2's because i dont know if i can remove the dampening adjuster ****. waiting till i get another chassis this weekend.

 

thanks for the help man. it seems the only work around is to *** with the preload then? does your front end ride worse because of altered preload, or how is it?

 

since i have type 2's , i set them to full stiff, and it rides pretty much like stock. hitting a dip or bump at my ride
height can result in the front upper control arms hitting the tower sometimes.

still can clear a few speedbumps not at full speed. high centered on a few .

 

well you're at the ride height im shooting for, Ill just have to experiment. thanks for the input.

 

function > form

 

has anyone else used the technique Hfd_Ed6 used? (removing lock ring and spinning spring perch ring all the way down to mount ring)

it will definitely work but i would like to know how well people's front shocks have held up riding this way. his have lasted 2 years so far, but i would like other people's results as well. chime in!

 

personally i would go with blackworks, they do what you want them to do and they have great ride quality, and they are around the same price

 

well i already have these, i would just like to hear how the shocks are holding up for people that have dropped the preload all the way down on function forms.