Ok guys so my questions is.. I'm running the Ecu jumper harness and theres two wires that go to a toggle switch to Check the engine light codes.. Well when I flip it one way I get nothing if I just flip it down I get a solid check engine light is this right so let's say you get in your car there's no cel and u hit the switch is there still nothing or does one way give you a solid light? Also if you guys know the two color wires you used I know there all diff but just in case... My jumper is prob 7 to 10 yrs old lol

 

I have a pinout that says connector D pin 4. Should be brown or brown/white, you ground the wire to flash codes on the CEL. When it's not grounded and you turn the key, the light should come on for a second and go off.

 

Ok I'm talking about the Ecu jumper harness though

 

Well follow that wire to the jumper harness. It's not rocket science, and you already said your jumper harness is antique. Mine uses a yellow wire, but I doubt yours is the same.

 

Well I get that. Lol but wat I'm asking is if it should have a solid light at all? Or if no cel is on should I be able to toggle switch up and dwn and get no light wat so ever or should it turn on like that? Thanks

 

i would say dont run a troggle switch to any of your ecu wires, i have seen many failed attempts where people bring their cars over trying to make some kind of kill switch, or light switch then ended killing their ecu,

 

i would cut the harness and use the plugs to build one without the switch

 

http://www.hamotorsports.com/solid-c...ine-light.html

An excerpt:

"A solid check engine light (with service check connector jumpered) is for an internal rom reading error within the ECU. If you receive a solid check engine light on a stock/ unchipped factory ECU, then the internal processor is most likely bad and the entire ECU should be replaced."

 

I've tryed 3 known good ecu's all the same

 

Alright. Well, unfortunately I really know nothing about this, I just happened to run into that while I was doing research for my own build, b18a1 swap and jumper harness. Good luck.

 

It sounds like your toggle switch just goes to the CEL, and isn't connected to the ecu. Check the wiring again.

 

 

Hi Im helping this OP with this build
Locash old school jumper,
it is a yellow wire and it is going to D4 and the other side is grounded to an extra ground not being used within the subharness connector.
Ive unplugged sensors and on one position of the switch it shows the code on the other it constantly has a solid MIL.
with all sensors connected no MIL switch position 1
Solid MIL switch position 2

In the 94 integra service manual it states that it is a short between the SES connector and the MIL in the cluster, or loose or faulty grounds at thermo housing, or loose or faulty ECM fuse under hood.
to the guy who said run the og OBD1 SES connector,
I trust a closed OEM, then some Vatozone China Switch
I honestly like that idea!Thanks duder.

 

Is it an illuminated switch? The connector shouldn't make a difference. When you say it shows the code, does it flash or just come on for the unplugged sensor?