I keep getting a code 9 for the cyp. When I start the car, no code. As soon as I take the car for a drive and hit 5000rpms, the cel turns on and the car loses major power through 1 gear until about 4k

 

Are you sure your mechanical timing is correct? Because even if that sensor was physically bad it would throw a code but the engine would still run like nothing was wrong.

 

Yep. Ignition timing and mechanical timing are dead on. When the code is absent, car pulls fast from a dead stop. When code is present, car doesnt want to start from a stand still as fast

 

Does it sputter or act funny when the code kicks on? or does it just loose power?

 

well from a dead stop it is noticeable power loss when you start in 1 gear, if its while youre driving it misses a bit

 

Sounds like your distributor might have too much shaft play. The reason I say this is because it is fine at lower RPMs and acts up after the engine harmonics really start going (around 4k+ on Honda engines). You can ohm your wires and try to test some things; I would just try another distributor if you have one. If not test first or get one.

 

Never got this code when the engine was in my other sedan. Anyway, I followed what the service manual said for a code 9. I ohmed out the two pins on the dizzy and that turned out to be up to par. I have an obd0 mpfi dizzy but I noticed the shaft that goes from the dizzy into the end of the cam is smaller than the b series one. Will it still work to try it?

 

Try another dizzy, then post results.

 

 

Are you running OBD 0? If you're speaking of the two male ends that go into the cam, as long as it's the same length I don't see why it wouldn't be worth a shot. I take it you're speaking about a D series dizzy.....not sure if the mounting holes line up on a B series though. I have heard of someone running a D series dizzy on their B18 but something about they could only install one bolt in one mounting hole. I don't know, I've never tried it. Another thing if you try it, the dual cam ZC doesn't have a internal CYP sensor in the dizzy so it's on the exhaust cam.......don't know what dizzy you have but that's something else to check out.

 

I used a si d series dizzy on a b18a, worked fine only one bolt lined up for mounting.

 

yes I was referring to the obd0 HF/Si/EX/RT4WD dizzy (d15b6 and d16a6). I know the offset of the bolt holes is different but I can bolt it on and put it in correct timing.

 

that's what I guessed

 

Let us know if you try it and it fixes it man, I'm curious because my friend is actually having the same problem with his B18a1.

 

tried the other dizzy and it is still throwing the code 9 and the code 7 for the tps showed up again. Neither of these codes were present when I had the engine in my other sedan. Im ready to hardwire both from the ecu to the engine unless someone else has a better solution. I really dont want to hardwire cause it messes up my tuck harness. Also instead of making a separate thread I figured I would ask here. I took out the charcoal canister and looped the line in the back of the intake and ran the line from the firewall straight to the throttle body. I am getting a slight backfire pop sound from under the car. Could it be due to deleting the canister?

 

YOU ARE SUCKING GAS FUMES STRAIGHT INTO THE ENGINE!!!

This is probably messing with everything. Remove the vapor line fr the intake before yodrain your vehicle again... If you wanted to delete the charcoal canister all you had to do is cap all the ports. You can disconnect the purge solenoid and it won't throw a code.

 

I have the purge disconnected. So that could cause all of this chaos? Im gonna go drive it now with that line capped like you said

 

Just capped the lines and took it for a drive. CYP code is still present and CEL turns on above 5-6k

 

My POS phone changed half of the things I typed. No, I didn't think it was causing the code - but it surely wasn't helping. Do you have spare ECU pins that you can depin and run temporary wires to the distributor then? It can only be a few things and you are running out of options. I personally would be leaning towards the wiring. Did you use shielded wiring for the logic wires?

 

it can be a wiring issue, just fixed one today. if two parts goes bad on one car, then that car is the issue not the part, check all the wiring, i just fixed one today, had to rewire all their speaker wires that they tried to run, and repinned every wire they did,

 

I just tried another ecu and it still throws the code. This confirms bad wiring. I used shielded wire but I went and looked at my car, I must have missed soldering the two CYP wires and "re-shielding them". I have an entire subharness from another sedan, Ill just depin the CYP wires and run new shield wire straight to the dizzy. Bet that solves the problem.

 

Hope it does man, let us know how it goes.

 

Will do. thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread.

 

Well I just hardwired the two cyp wires to the ecu and still have the code. If anyone could figure this out I would really appreciate it. Its really making me frustrated

 

Tried the d series dizzy again. Code is absent til 6-7k. What could this be