2000 Accord camshaft timing.
Hello everyone, my name is Enrique and im brand new to the forum(posting anyways, i have been looking around and reading for a few months now i just hadnt registered). I have a 2000 Accord V6. it is a J30A1 engine with close to 240,000miles. i am asking about the timing since all the other info i have seen is on h22 and f22 engines. i had to replace the tdc1 and tdc2 sensor a few days ago but now i am having problems with the timing. i have the service manual and i followed it step by step. i made sure the marks on the teeth for the pulleys were in line with the lines on the back covers. i did not use a new belt since the one installed is in good condition(according to the manual). i torqued everything down but whenever i start the engine, i hear a slight taping coming from one of the camshafts and it increases as i step on the gas. i assume that it is the valves hitting the piston? the car starts very easily so i took it to a friend that workes at autozone and he recommended using a thicker oil but that didnt help either. has anyone ever had this problem before?
also, why are the camshaft pulleys so difficult to adjust? the back one seems to be on some type of spring mechanism or something because everytime i went to rotate it and moved the shaft a little too fast, it would just "spring" forwards or backwards about a quarter of a turn.
thank you in advance for any input anyone might offer.
also, why are the camshaft pulleys so difficult to adjust? the back one seems to be on some type of spring mechanism or something because everytime i went to rotate it and moved the shaft a little too fast, it would just "spring" forwards or backwards about a quarter of a turn.
thank you in advance for any input anyone might offer.
Very unlikely the valves are hitting the piston, if this were the case the valves would be bent or the piston would be damaged. The engine would not run properly if that was the case.
also, why are the camshaft pulleys so difficult to adjust? the back one seems to be on some type of spring mechanism or something because everytime i went to rotate it and moved the shaft a little too fast, it would just "spring" forwards or backwards about a quarter of a turn.
Possibly a stuck lifter. Using a screw driver, socket extension, broom handle, etc place one end near where you think the noise is coming from and the other end near your ear. Move your stethoscope around and see if you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. If you know you did not do any physical damage to the lifter then it is possibly just stuck due to carbon/varnish build up. Use oils that have detergents in them, avoid penzoil. See if you can find Sea Foam locally, follow the directions and use it. If not available adding some ATF to the crankcase will help clean the engine internally.
Possibly a stuck lifter. Using a screw driver, socket extension, broom handle, etc place one end near where you think the noise is coming from and the other end near your ear. Move your stethoscope around and see if you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. If you know you did not do any physical damage to the lifter then it is possibly just stuck due to carbon/varnish build up. Use oils that have detergents in them, avoid penzoil. See if you can find Sea Foam locally, follow the directions and use it. If not available adding some ATF to the crankcase will help clean the engine internally.
Very unlikely the valves are hitting the piston, if this were the case the valves would be bent or the piston would be damaged. The engine would not run properly if that was the case.
If you have a loose or sticking lifter it either needs to be cleaned or replaced. Thicker than spec oils will not do anything other than cause parasitic drag and lower your MPGs.
Because it is spring loaded. The camshaft have lobes that actuate poppet valves that are held closed by springs. If the camshaft is rotated so that the pressure from the spring is acting on the side of the lobe it will cause the camshaft to rotate.
Very unlikely the valves are hitting the piston, if this were the case the valves would be bent or the piston would be damaged. The engine would not run properly if that was the case.
If you have a loose or sticking lifter it either needs to be cleaned or replaced. Thicker than spec oils will not do anything other than cause parasitic drag and lower your MPGs.
Because it is spring loaded. The camshaft have lobes that actuate poppet valves that are held closed by springs. If the camshaft is rotated so that the pressure from the spring is acting on the side of the lobe it will cause the camshaft to rotate.
my apologies but when i said rattle, i meat something that sound kinda like "tick tick tick tick," it is constant. i actually have the front end on towers with the wheels off and the timing belt covers off. i dont hear anything coming from the automatic adjusters. i just bought the Sea Foam and im going to add it. cant hurt to use it and see if it helps.
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