Short ram intake w/Velocity stack plus filter????

im asking because im reading alot of threads of this combo and it seems to work

 

i bought an AEM im now im regretting................

 

Short ram + velocity stack w/ screem > all

 

Define "works".

Does it function, and allow the engine to operate? Yes.

Does it create more power than a tuned length full intake? Where in the RPM band does it make more, or less power? You'll need to get on a dyno with both to answer those.

 

Hot under-hood air is still hot under-hood air.

I run the OEM airbox with a K&N filter. The resonator box was replaced with some thin walled, 4" PVC and draws air from the RF fender like the ITR. My intake manifold temperature decreased significantly in the summer.

 

A tuned intake? This isn't a subaru, you don't need a tune just for an intake lol. And If there is a difference between these two setups, it will be very minimal, it's just an intake, we are talking like +/-1 hp/ftlbs

 

Ive read alot and it seems to work , i mean it increase power on the engine .... thats why im asking ....

 

have one of u actually dyno tested this ??? it would be intresting to se the difference because i know that SRI with no stack ....suck .... ( only makes great sound, but sound isnt what u are looking for )

 

No matter what you are only looking at about a 2hp gain max.

 

Obviously.
You don't tune the engine for an intake.

The length of the intake itself is considered "tuned" based on the harmonics produced from the air flow through it, and if they match up well with the characteristics of the engine it will be used on. This is why different intake manifold runner and exhaust header tube designs produce different power curves, and the same applies to the intake, whether "short ram" or "cold air".

On an otherwise stock engine, this is close enough.

However, changing the length of the intake can shift where that minor increase in power is seen, and even how much of the rev band it occurs in.

Also true, and generally much more important than anything else being discussed here.

I run an AEM CAI, because I need CARB certification on parts and wanted the increase in throttle response.

 

Yes, it's a very good combination. The all motor guys are finding that short ram + velocity stack is a good intake. I think CAI + velocity stack is also a good option.

 

Intakes dont actually make the motor produce more HP, all it does is free up loss hp

 

That's still adding more hp than factory. That's like saying full exhaust and header is just freeing up lost hp?

 

 

An engine is nothing more than an air pump, any modifaction you do whether it be bolt ons or internals, do nothing more than make it pump more air in and out, and at a faster rate.

The only thing that can be considered "freeing" up horse power, would be removing something that creates drag, such as an ac compresser/ps pump as an example.

 

Please buy from BPI, one of the original designers of the optimized flow stack. And a US based company.

http://www.bpi-us.com/index.php

Also have dyno sheets if u want to read.

 

i totally agree with dirtyDa9, im looking for nice throttle response because Gs-R are somehow ''lazy engines'' , im getting my intake tomorrow i would be ordering my v/stack plus AEM filter, also thinking of getting header wrap, im going to try to make the tube temperature lil bit cooler ..... let u know the results

 

Whaaaa.. GS-Rs have great throttle response already. Very eager. Just not a lot of torque.

Anyways if you're wanting to improve throttle resposne a lightened flywheel is the way to go.

 

i'm running a blox filter w/velocity stack on my gsr and it runs fine.

 

Actually header wrap makes the header itself actually hotter because it retains heat, it makes them more likely to crack if they are a cheap header. It just keeps them from giving off a lot of heat into the engine bay.

 

Ok so your saying adding an intake and headers to a motor actually makes more power? That couldnt be more false how are you going to increase hp with the same compression, same stroke, same bore?? All your doing is opening up how much the motor can take in and compress you didnt actually change anything... Exhaust just frees up back pressure, intake is less resistance on the intake stroke.

So in the end all you did was free up what has been restriced by Honda to keep noise down and move power where honda feels it would be at the most use... You didnt actually gain anything over what honda has designed the motors max power to be at.

 

Why not put a box of dry ice in your fender and insulate your intake tube? Dense air FTW!

 

You're right, I guess a port and polish is just freeing up hp too? By your theory pretty much every mod you make is just "freeing up" power. Like putting in bigger cams is just freeing up power the stock cams didn't make, or a Performer X manifold is only freeing up hp. Stop being idiots. If adding a part makes the engine produce more power, that is ADDING horsepower. Not freeing hp.

I will say this once more, "freeing" up hp, is only done by removing something that creates "drag" such as an AC/PS pump.

Get on my level.

 

I agree with DirtyDA. "Freeing up" HP refers to removing HP requirements of pulley driven accessories. Because this is HP that has been produced by the engine already, HOWEVER it is diverted to the PS pump or AC instead of the wheels on the ground. If you have a stock intake configuration that produces x-HP, and you swap in something else that creates y-HP, then that is ADDING or CREATING HP, because that HP wasn't there to begin with. Right?

 

It's a totally semantic argument because it depends completely what your definition of "freeing up power is." Do you believe that it means removing restrictions and allowing the head to flow as much air as possible? Or do you believe that it means reducing parasitic and other losses? You both know how engines work so there's not much to argue about.

Of course talking about intakes and exhausts as though ALL they do is add restrictions isn't very accurate, either. While the exhaust aft of the collector primarily acts as a restriction and nothing else, manifold architecture, runner lengths, and plenum volumes of the various components have a huge effect on not just how much air flows into the engine but at what engine speed. No header + ITBs might be the highest flowing setup, but not many of us would want that for a daily driver, sound notwithstanding...

Remember there's very little we can do aside from changing the bottom end to increase peak torque. Most modifications we do are about positioning the powerband where we want.