ok so i bought this honda off craigslist for $600. it was not running guy said it needed a distributor.
first off let me say as far as i know this is a 1992 honda accord with a 2.2 non vtec. car was originaly auto. converted manual by the previous owner.
ok i got a distributor from the local junkyard found out that wasnt the problem the cam sproket broke off the cam. i put a new head and intake on the car hooked it all up got the car running. runs like **** but running. i bled the coolant still runs stupid. iv read allot of your guys threads but nothings compairing to this monster i bought. when i first try to start the car it takes about 1 minute of holding the key before the fuel gets to were it needs to go im guessing thats fuel filter no big deal. then when it starts it sits at about 200 rpm. you can put the throttle wide open it does nothing but make a deep noise. if you let the car run 2-3 minutes you can use the throttle. the whole car shakes as if its missing no matter were you put the timing the cel is on for code 6 coolant temp sensor. it has no power going to it or from it went to check the prongs at the ecu and found the ecu was not bolted down and the 2 wire harness pluggs that go into or out of the bottom of the ecu are unplugged!! but it still runs and i can drive it. the whole harness under the hood is boogered up because it used to be an automatic. there are no o2 sensors anywere on this car and no cel for it now the weird gets better. i plugged the 2 in started the car the cel was gone but the cts had 12v on both wires????? i plugged it back in shut the car off and tried to restart and it would not start... i unplugged the ecu car started up on its normal routine of 200 rpm then 800 rpm after 2-3 minutes ..... i dont know were to start im so frustrated with this car i already spent money on it that i dont have. i do have access to 2 of these cars at a buddys junkyard that i pay nothing for parts at. so please help me if you can because i do not know were to start. thanks for your time its greatly appreciated.

 

With what appears to be a botched wiring job and a conversion that you did not do, I would just cut my losses and junk it. You can probably get about 300 from the junk yard. Not trying to sound cruel but it just sounds like a major mess. Probably not worth it.

 

If you check the FAQ https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-auto-5spd-swap-%2A%2Alots-pics%2A%2A-1237137/ this thread will pop up. Page 4 has a reposting of the original post w/pics.
I was under the impression that the car needs the ECM, even if its failed in limp mode, to run.
The EX models have the O2 mounted to a small section of exhaust pipe right before the catalyst. Unlike the DX/LX models with the O2 mounted to the exhaust manifold, the EX O2 can be hard to see unless you crawl under the car.
Out of curiosity, where are you and is the car fuel injected?
If the underhood harness is hacked up pretty badly, you would be better off getting an unmolested harness and starting fresh. Trying to fix someone elses mess is a nightmare. If you can get a same year harness to replace the hacked one, DO-EEET!

 

The ecu has 2 plugs on the left side and 2 plugs on the righf side bottom. A harness i can get no priblem but its one for a coil mounted inside the distributor. I can get the distributir aa well noproblem. I see the blue o2 sensor wire towards the back of the engine near the cat it waa cut and a plug is installed. Im located in atco nj. If its easier this can be discussed over the phone though id ratheeleave it on here incase someone elseruns into this problem..... i build mudtrucks i am cery mechanically inclined but this is to much at once

 

what if it just has a clogged catalytic converter. you might want to try taking off the headers and turning it on!

 

You know its funny you say that because it does smell horribly like rotten eggs but that doesnt explain why when i plug them 2 plugs in i cant get the car to start. My buddy is dropping off a whole 93 accord well minus the head and intake because i already stole them off it. This is driving me nuts but i already have to much time invested to get rid of it.
Now if i run it over first ill feel a little better

 

Undoing the cat did nothing. Still runs like ****

 

I'd look at the wiring from the donor car you are getting. I'd re-wire everything if thats what you have to do. Also, try to contact the seller and ask questions on what exactly was done so you can fix previous mistakes.

 

Have you checked fuel pressure? Does the intake backfire when accelerating? I kind of had the same problem, The idling problem was a fuel filter for me. Then I found out my fuel pressure regulator was bad. One test is to close off the fuel return. The fuel pressure regulator will allow fuel back to the gas tank. If you crimp the rubber line right after the fuel pressure regulator and it runs better you need a fuel pressure regulator.

Let me ask this. Is old gas in it?

 

Its new gas. The guy was driving the car like this. The guy before him did all this bullshit on another note the box that i thought was the ecu is not it says at control unit?? I guess foe the auto trans now my question is this with that box if i plug it in while the car is running it smooths out and runs amazing but if the car runs for 5 mins and i shut the car off it will not restart untill i unplug it ....weird now when i have that box plugged in the 2 wires i believe to be the ect both have 12v wich makes even worse sense

Is the engine bay wire harness the same between auto and manual??

 

Seems the car was hacked to get to run and he did it wrong. You need a manual trans ECU. The harness is different, but can be modified to work. At this point I'd get a MT engine harness as well.

 

Ok cool. The only harnesses available to me are autos. How can i tell if the ecu is gor a 5 speed or not?? Idk wat this is in the car aa far as modifiing the auto harness to work i can do but not after someone already boogered it to ****

I really appreciate all of those trying to help.thank you

 

THis one is for a MT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-P28-5-...sories&vxp=mtr

This one for an auto
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-Honda-A...sories&vxp=mtr

Id check your part numbers to these and take it from there. Also I see a seperate computer for sale for the Automatics, I'm not sure if there is also one for the MT, or if it's just run off the engine ECU.

 

If the original owner, did the auto to manual swap, and was still using a auto ecu, it would have caused all sorts of wierd idle issues, possible wierd sounds, and other strange things. Which might have caused them to start hacking stuff up to fix what was being caused by the computer.

The ecu's you use for your car depends upon what motor you have under the hood. If you have an f22a1, or f22a4, you would use a pt3. If its an f22a6, you use the pt6 ecu.

Identifying the ecu's is easy.
PT3-XYZ or PT6-XYZ
Where X is the region code (0 & J = Japan, A = US Federal Emissions, L = US Cali Emissions, C = Canada, G=Europe, Q = Australian)
Where Y is the manual or automatic identifier (if its a 5, 7, 9 its an automatic)
Where Z is the revision

If you want to convert your current "automatic" ecu to manual, its should be as easy as moving a resistor, and replacing the 28-pin prom, with one containing manual programming (pt-tuner.com offers chip burning services, and can burn you a manual .bin for the conversion, for as little as $6 shipped.) You should also check out the Wiki @ http://www.pt-tuner.com/wiki/

Manual ecu's for the cb7 aren't nearly as plentiful as automatics, and some places want to charge rediculous prices for them, if you can even source one locally.

 

^^^^ What he said. Seems to know his ECU's... Nice

 

ok i made major progress today. my buddy dropped off that donor car and instead of going threw all the hassel and swapping out the harness i just looked over it. i found the problem inside the harness was the green/black-green/white wires for the ect!!! no plug just the wires cut then tapped up in the harness. the wires he had going to the plug were the same color but into the harness under the tape i found they were butt connected to yellow/green- green/white. fixed it up checked over the rest of the wires and put it back together started right up!!!no hesitation no bog no cel. 2 seconds later the cel came back on checked the codes 41- heated o2 sensor. F*CK there are no o2 hooked up as i started removing the 02s from the donor it started raining. so i believe that part of my problem is fixed. the ecu says pt6 something 5 something i dont remember but it is an auto and i did research on the converting opened up the ecu and its already been converted the one resistor has been removed and the jumper is already in.

so i made the car legal today tomorrows project is o ring inbetween oil cooler and oil pressure sensor sense the light is on. but i was told its just the sensor well find out tomorrow AGAIN THANK YOUS SO MUCH FOR THE HELP





this is what i normall build all day :-)

 

So was the 28-pin chip removed from the ecu? And a manual one put in its place? Otherwise the programming between the two is still different, and you could see a significant change in fuel economy, idling, and a couple other things. Mind taking a picture of the ecu and posting it up?

 

Yea sorry. Ill take a picture for you tomorrow and post it up