UPDATE BELOW!

So I bought an ef civic with a prior b16a swap in it. Iv checked the ecu pinouts and it seems correct and it is running a pw0 ecu but it has a 5k rev limiter and no vtec. It hits around 5k and pops and stutters.

I thought it might have been the speed sensor but my speedo is working??? I bought the car like this forr cheap so I'm trying to fix it.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Is the cel on?

 

It comes on when I hit the 5k rev limiter. Ima gonna try to see what that says

 

Code 21 vtec solenoid

 

I'd start by checking wiring around the solenoid and pressure switch, also at the ecu. If all that checks out, I'd pull the solenoid off the head and make sure the screen filter/gasket is clean.

 

speed sensor

 

UPDATE: Okay so I've removed the engine from the EF it was into and swapped it into my CRX since this was the original plan. It still won't rev past 5k.

I converted the engine to OBD1 and runs a chipped ecu and still no go. Same thing the car did when it was OBD0, If it was the speed sensor wouldnt the car's speedo not work?

 

do you still get the same code????

 

Didn't get any codes, but its a chipped ecu I tuned and disabled the vtec speed check and vtec coolant check and removed the launch control incase it was getting mixed up also. No codes :/ I checked the timing and adjusted my valves today and still no go :/ I'm wondering if my vtec solenoid is bad?? Could that cause this? I heard vtec pop when I set it at 4900 but then it stuttered like usual at 5000

 

Bump

 

Did you pull the solenoid as I suggested?

 

okay umm well i could tell you from experience that it could be your injectors but if it was so you would get a code for that also it could be that your ignition coil is bad i experience this cuz my spark plugs fouled out and i ran them i damaged the ignition coil and everytime i would step on it the ignition coil will fail due to the electric load and bad spark plugs idk what else it could be if it was a vtec solenoid it would crack vtec or unless your not having enough oil pressure ????

 

Update: Pulled the solenoid as suggested and filter was clean, I guess you make a good point since vtec cracked when I lowered the engagement it must be working.

The injectors are fresh dsm 450's since I was gonna boost it but keep in mind it did this problem before when it was in the ef civic where I took this swap out of with the stock injectors so that rules the injectors out.

The distributor is a brand new obd1 from distributorking that I just installed to convert to obd1 for my crx, also had the same issue when it was obd0 in the ef civic with prior distributor.

So the Vtec solenoid, fuel injectors and distributor is ruled out. I read somewhere that something with the reverse lights being connected causes b16 swapped hf crx's to go into limp mode, mine is an Si so I am going to try that tomorrow...

Thanks for all the help keep the suggestions coming!

 

If my speedometer is reading that would rule out the possibility of my speed sensor correct? Its a cable speedo

 

Bad dizzy but if u converted to obd1 then this means u got a new dizzy so r u getting any oil leaks or something? That would make mine not rev up and redline early plus did u use the same engine harness?

 

Speedo sensor and speedo cable are 2 different things. However if you lowered the vtec and it cracks, then your speedo cable is working as vtec will not engage without it working im pretty sure. Im also pretty sure that your vtec will not engage when the ecu is in limp mode. Can you get it to go past 5k if your not flooring it? Sometimes when people swap harnesses they from car to car they switch the tps wires around (i know you have to in some cars but sometimes they dont switch them back when putting them in another) and it will cause the car to cut out at around 5k when floored. Another thing to check would be your mechanical timing cause being a tooth off can also cause this.

 

i would check the oil pressure bro

 

WEIRD BUT FIXED??? I Unplug the reverse lights, its two connecters on the front of the transmission that go to a sensor on the bottom under the Cable fork. I unplugged it and revs fine and everything works, I plugged it in and 5k rev limiter etc returns.. So for anyone later on needing help try unplugging that
Thanks everyone for the help

 

When you swapped everything over, did you also swap the engine harness?
Unplugging the reverse switch makes no sense.
Sounds like somebody converted the harness incorrectly and now you have something wired wrong.

 

I agree

 

I used the original crx si harness. I've used it before on my Z6 Boosted that was in the crx before and never gave me any issues. It has a RyWire OBD1 Conversion kit so it's all nice and no hack jobs. Here's the link to the guy who gave me the idea to the reverse switch thing:

http://www.vadriven.com/forums/tech-...?t-70879.html=

 

Still though... some wire got crossed some where and it's not wired right.
You should be able to use your reverse lights.

I would do a continuity check from the reverse wires to the ECU pins and see if they show up being wired in somehow.

 

Just wondering how are they different? I thought the signal was sent through the cable speedo so if the speedo is reading my cluster the sensor is correct? No?

 

You speedometer can work without your vss working. The your speedometer is run 100% mechanically by the spinning of the cable, no sensors involved. Thats why the thought of your launch control causing the problem but you said you disabled it. Im assuming that you speedometer works. And did you convert to obd1 for the swap?

 

NVM you guys were right lol It was the VSS, It started doing it again while I was doing some tuning and then I saw the speedometer reading in crome. It reads 20mph then 40mph while going 70mph. LOL Must be starting to fail I guess so where is the VSS? Do I just need to replace the whole piece that goes into the transmission? Any idea if a D series Cable VSS is compatible with B series?