gsr not turning over or doing anything
my gsr is not turning over or anything. yesterday everything was working fine. i go out to start it up nothing no clicking or anything. charged the battery cables r all good. tried to jump start it nothing. i think it might b the ecu. any suggestions?
Check for codes here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/ecu-abs-codes-here-978933/
Get back to us and tell us whats its throwing.
So im assuming your CEL is on?
Check for codes here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=978933
Get back to us and tell us whats its throwing.
Check for codes here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=978933
Get back to us and tell us whats its throwing.
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Cel means check engine light. If it stays on when the key is in the on position that means either main relay or ECU is bad, but with the problems you are having, it would be the ecu. Go to the link above explaining how to retrieve codes. If the cel light doesn't stay on, check codes anyway, but from how you are describing it I would say starter ground/relay/solenoid.
Cel means check engine light. If it stays on when the key is in the on position that means either main relay or ECU is bad, but with the problems you are having, it would be the ecu. Go to the link above explaining how to retrieve codes. If the cel light doesn't stay on, check codes anyway, but from how you are describing it I would say starter ground/relay/solenoid.
Last edited by momodc221; Dec 17, 2011 at 02:03 PM.
ECT isn't going to stop your car from turning over though. As mentioned check around by your pedals to see if there's any little white plastic pieces from the clutch interlock switch.
You can also check for voltage at the starter S terminal (the little one with the boot on it). Start as normal and have someone put a meter on that terminal as the key is turned. The interlock sends ground to the cut relay so no juice if it's broke. Look for the plastic pieces.
Or just look up to see if it's busted on the end.
You can also check for voltage at the starter S terminal (the little one with the boot on it). Start as normal and have someone put a meter on that terminal as the key is turned. The interlock sends ground to the cut relay so no juice if it's broke. Look for the plastic pieces.
Or just look up to see if it's busted on the end.
What he said^^. And to check for a bad ect, when you do get the engine to crank if it doesn't start still, unplug the ect and if it starts the, it is a faulty ect. But that is not what's causing the no cranking condition.
It's called a nuetral safety or clutch safety switch. Just follow the clutch pedal up, and you will see a button style thing that the clutch pressed every time the clutch pedal is depressed (not pressed). Google search integra clutch safety switch, there are plenty of images I'm sure.
Once you know the battery is fine, the first test for a no crank should be done at the starter with a multimeter. If you don't have one and you want to do any work on your car, get one even if it's a cheap *** Harbor Freight meter.
Test for battery voltage at the big starter terminal. If you have over 12v...
Unplug the small wire to the starter and put your red lead to the harness side. Hold the black lead to ground. When someone pushes the clutch and turns the key, do you get battery voltage on that wire?
If so, you have just proved that EVERYTHING else in the starting circuit works in less than a minute, so the starter is bad. That's the key to diagnosing electrical: What is the easiest and fastest way to prove which part of the circuit isn't working.
If you don't get voltage there, it's most likely the clutch switch or ignition switch. Now is the time to start troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.
Test for battery voltage at the big starter terminal. If you have over 12v...
Unplug the small wire to the starter and put your red lead to the harness side. Hold the black lead to ground. When someone pushes the clutch and turns the key, do you get battery voltage on that wire?
If so, you have just proved that EVERYTHING else in the starting circuit works in less than a minute, so the starter is bad. That's the key to diagnosing electrical: What is the easiest and fastest way to prove which part of the circuit isn't working.
If you don't get voltage there, it's most likely the clutch switch or ignition switch. Now is the time to start troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.
It's called a nuetral safety or clutch safety switch. Just follow the clutch pedal up, and you will see a button style thing that the clutch pressed every time the clutch pedal is depressed (not pressed). Google search integra clutch safety switch, there are plenty of images I'm sure.
Once you know the battery is fine, the first test for a no crank should be done at the starter with a multimeter. If you don't have one and you want to do any work on your car, get one even if it's a cheap *** Harbor Freight meter.
Test for battery voltage at the big starter terminal. If you have over 12v...
Unplug the small wire to the starter and put your red lead to the harness side. Hold the black lead to ground. When someone pushes the clutch and turns the key, do you get battery voltage on that wire?
If so, you have just proved that EVERYTHING else in the starting circuit works in less than a minute, so the starter is bad. That's the key to diagnosing electrical: What is the easiest and fastest way to prove which part of the circuit isn't working.
If you don't get voltage there, it's most likely the clutch switch or ignition switch. Now is the time to start troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.
Test for battery voltage at the big starter terminal. If you have over 12v...
Unplug the small wire to the starter and put your red lead to the harness side. Hold the black lead to ground. When someone pushes the clutch and turns the key, do you get battery voltage on that wire?
If so, you have just proved that EVERYTHING else in the starting circuit works in less than a minute, so the starter is bad. That's the key to diagnosing electrical: What is the easiest and fastest way to prove which part of the circuit isn't working.
If you don't get voltage there, it's most likely the clutch switch or ignition switch. Now is the time to start troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.
Once you know the battery is fine, the first test for a no crank should be done at the starter with a multimeter. If you don't have one and you want to do any work on your car, get one even if it's a cheap *** Harbor Freight meter.
Test for battery voltage at the big starter terminal. If you have over 12v...
Unplug the small wire to the starter and put your red lead to the harness side. Hold the black lead to ground. When someone pushes the clutch and turns the key, do you get battery voltage on that wire?
If so, you have just proved that EVERYTHING else in the starting circuit works in less than a minute, so the starter is bad. That's the key to diagnosing electrical: What is the easiest and fastest way to prove which part of the circuit isn't working.
If you don't get voltage there, it's most likely the clutch switch or ignition switch. Now is the time to start troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.
Test for battery voltage at the big starter terminal. If you have over 12v...
Unplug the small wire to the starter and put your red lead to the harness side. Hold the black lead to ground. When someone pushes the clutch and turns the key, do you get battery voltage on that wire?
If so, you have just proved that EVERYTHING else in the starting circuit works in less than a minute, so the starter is bad. That's the key to diagnosing electrical: What is the easiest and fastest way to prove which part of the circuit isn't working.
If you don't get voltage there, it's most likely the clutch switch or ignition switch. Now is the time to start troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.
Once you know the battery is fine, the first test for a no crank should be done at the starter with a multimeter. If you don't have one and you want to do any work on your car, get one even if it's a cheap *** Harbor Freight meter.
Test for battery voltage at the big starter terminal. If you have over 12v...
Unplug the small wire to the starter and put your red lead to the harness side. Hold the black lead to ground. When someone pushes the clutch and turns the key, do you get battery voltage on that wire?
If so, you have just proved that EVERYTHING else in the starting circuit works in less than a minute, so the starter is bad. That's the key to diagnosing electrical: What is the easiest and fastest way to prove which part of the circuit isn't working.
If you don't get voltage there, it's most likely the clutch switch or ignition switch. Now is the time to start troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.
Test for battery voltage at the big starter terminal. If you have over 12v...
Unplug the small wire to the starter and put your red lead to the harness side. Hold the black lead to ground. When someone pushes the clutch and turns the key, do you get battery voltage on that wire?
If so, you have just proved that EVERYTHING else in the starting circuit works in less than a minute, so the starter is bad. That's the key to diagnosing electrical: What is the easiest and fastest way to prove which part of the circuit isn't working.
If you don't get voltage there, it's most likely the clutch switch or ignition switch. Now is the time to start troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.


