Hey guys, my dad has a 1995 civic with a D15B7 and manual transmission with 442,579 miles.

For a long time now, it seems whenever it rains or anything like that, the fuel pump doesnt kick on after an extended period of time after the ignition is turned on. The CEL stays on until the fuel pump kicks on, then goes out.

And just last night, the CEL would pop on and "bog" down. im thinking whats happening here is the motor is shutting off and restarting when whatever problem it has cures itself since it is a manual.

My dad is driving my teggy at the moment and its too low. id really like to help him out and i really have no idea what this could be. His mechanic of around 30 years doesnt even know.

Im gonna look up the procedure to pull codes, ill post what i get, but in the meantime, i would be very grateful for any insight, advice, etc.

In the past, i've checked the grounds on the thermostat housing and all were fine.

Sorry for the long post, but i really need to get his car running for him.

oh, and right now, it shows no signs of any issues... its way intermittent.

thanks guys

 

Double check the plug pins going into the ecu. If one or multiple of the pins are loose that could be causing your problem. Loose or bad contacts basically.

 

even if nothing is done to the car when it turns on?

 

and it only seems to happen when its wet outside

 

ok so when the engine runs, there is no CEL. i was hoping that the ecu stores past codes. so i put the paper clip jumper in the port and the CEL just stayed on...'

any pointers?

and also, completely random, but how can i test for spark without blowing the coil *__*

i do the have it running and pull plug wires method. that seems to blow coils. ive done it twice now.

 

put a screwdriver in the plug cap and hold it about an 1/8" above a bare spot on the frame, it should arc

also, how old is the distributor?

 

oh crap my bad man. i meant to locate an engine miss. when i pull the wire and it doesnt change the way the motor sounds type of the thing. this distributor is ok. i replaced the coil around a year ago. weird thing, i just pressure washed the motor and the car still started right away. so im not too sure whats going on here

 

this problem would happen if the main relay needs re-soldered/replaced or the main power capacitor in the ECU dying.
Main power cap in the ECU is the large can electrolytic next to the connector.

in case you don't know of anyone that works on electronic parts.
D15B7 = P06 ECU

 

ok so i pulled the battery and ecu. put it all back together and now its doing it. tried to jump the diagnostic plug and the CEL just stays on, no main relay clicking. its like there is no connection to the ecu or something. fuse is fine. i have no idea whats going on. any suggestions please!

 

thanks everyone so far.

weve done the relay bit, ive picked up another one at the boneyard yesterday and when it starts, it runs just fine.

and can that main power capacitor just cycle between good and bad? its like after its runs for a bit, itll be ok. and its weird because it generally just happens when it rains. it rained a little today and i pressure washed the engine but it started up just fine. just the initial start this morning it took a while

i have a 96 civic with a D16Y7 here as well. will the ecus be identical?

 

No. The D15B7 is OBDI and the D16y7 is OBDII. Plugs are different at the ECU. Have you checked all the grounds?

https://honda-tech.com/newattachment...nageattach&p=#

 

its ridiculous that i didnt catch that haha

which grounds? i was told the ones on the thermostat housing are the primary grounds, and they were cool.

so far, i can tell that what is happening is the same thing if you pull the ecu fuse.

and i dont know if its coincidence and perfect timing but when i beat on the fuse box, it seems to kick on. the fuse is tight but i had my guy helping me and it may just be the contacts on the fuse box that are doing this.

as for the cutting out or bogging, ive yet to be able to make it happen again so i dont even know where to start :/

 

Common problem - I repair OBD1 ECUs with this issue all the time...

 

Get a known good ECU man instead of going all over the place.

 

Old thread closed.