I've been having the "wait on the CEL to go off to start" problem for a while. Sometimes it would take a few minutes. When it got cold, my battery went dead while waiting on the CEL to go off. It only had 200 cold cranking amps, so it got replaced. Now my CEL will not go off! I checked the power to the map sensor. I'm getting 4.88 volts. Just put in a new main relay... Fuses 31 and 24 look normal. Any suggestions? I'm out of ideas.

Thanks so much for the help in advance!

 

Why don't you just retrieve the code or codes from the ECU?

 

I don't think there is a code. The CEL always goes off when it starts. Also, I had to disconnect the battery to swap out the relay. Doesn't that erase the codes?

 

Try and pull one anyway.

 

Did a little google-fu and tried the trick I found. I took a paperclip and connected both sides of the obd1 plug thing. It was supposed to do some kind of morris code flash thing with the CEL. No flashing. Is there any other way to check the codes at home?

 

Check spark first

 

Try swapping in a known good ECU.

 

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Problem solved?

 

Not quite. Debating buying a new ecm. If it doesn't fix it, I may beat my wife's car with a sledgehammer. I've read it some older post by RonJ (huge fan of what you do on these forums!) that you can test the ECU by testing voltage at the map sensor. Done, and I have 4.88 volts. Could it still be an issue with my ECM? Just to be clear, the car still won't start. I wrote the post in a fit of rage, and it's a little unclear. It's always had the wait for the CEL to go off before you start issue, but now I can't get the cell light to go off, won't start, no buzz...click sound... nothing. Is there anything else I could troubleshoot to get a better understanding of where the problem is before I spend money on new parts? I'm about to go check the spark. I will let you guys know how it goes.

 

Have you checked the ground on the back of the thermostat housing?

 

I have no idea what a thermostat housing is. if you could please tell me where it is and what I should look for I would appreciate it!

 

When you measured voltage at the MAP sensor connector, what did you use for the ground in the test?

The Engine section of the FAQs sticky has some links for engine grounds, like G101 on the thermostat housing:

 

Follow the upper rad hose back from the rad to where it connects to the block, the thing it's clamped to is the thermostat housing, you'll see where 4 ground wires are crimped to a single ring terminal. If that ground isn't clean and tight the car wont start, that's the ground for the ECU among other things.

 

I will go take a look at it. I used a ground wire that was attached to the front of the car. It looked to be a ground wire, anyway. I don't know why else there would be wires from the engine bolted to the body.

 

i know you said u just put a new Main relay but this sounds like the problem to me... if you just bought it new maybey the parts store will allow you to swap it with another??? and your sure its the PGMFI main relay you have changed right?

 

 

I'm sure it was the right one. Bigish grey box next to the fuse panel. It's a pain to get the box, wire and screw back in place with the limited space. I grounded the volt meter against the thermostat housing ground. still @ 4.8/4.9. I tried the jumper wire on the plug for the codes. It makes the SRS light flash like crazy. I should also note that she states the speedometer is spastic, and I just noticed it bounces when I put the key it the II position. Weird.

 

hmmm.... make sure your grounds from the valve cover to chassis is good and tight, and do the same for the ground from trans to chassis

 

I wonder if it could be the wires I plugged into the main relay? There is a little play in the connection. All the grounds are tight. Does not look like anyone has ever messed with the wiring on this thing. The srs just blinks steady short blinks. I can't find anything on this code. Thanks again for all the help guys!

 

LIGHTBULB! She just told me that it idles funny after she drives it for a while and just started dying at random. I thought the dying was the battery and didn't know about the idol... Could this be the ignition control?

 

YES! it very well could be.... i would try replacing ign cont module... I had a 95 EX a few years ago that would misfire once warm and died at random at stop signs here and there, new Ign Ctrl Mod fixed it for me...

 

But would it cause the other issues with the relay/fuel pump not working?

 

Just noticed something else weird. The engine will crank without depressing the clutch. Don't know if this is relevant to the car not starting.

 

no ign ctr mod would not stop fuel pump from kicking.... U might have some wireing gremlin in there lol