hi,
im about to start a project.Its gonna be a k swap and im using it for tracks.Is it better to get a ek9 chasis or a ek3 chasis to start with.Im tesed both and the ek9 seems to be better than ek3 but what makes the ek9 so stiff and stable compared to the ek3.This is the first step and its the most crucial part.I want a car than can track than a straight line hero.Balance is important.Is it true that the k20a is much heavier than the b16b in total weight.Can anyone shed some light?thanks

 

Its personal preference. Both models can be made to do just about the same thing. Do you have a k swap? If not do you understand how much it costs to do one?

 

EK9 = Type R chassis

 

As mentioned above, the EK9 is a civic type R, this is what you tried out??

Also, the K20 engine i believe weights less than a B18

 

Its not heavy, I just loaded one into my truck the other night and it really wasnt bad.

 

Do you know what you are talking about.

 

I was able to dig up a little info on the weights. It seems the K20 "fully dressed" weighs about 212lb's
Where i was only able to find a short block weight of 102 for the short block, and 90 for the trans. For B series.

Pretty suprised to see that.



Op, being as the car is going to be raced, and likely wont have much for stock parts left on it, why does it matter?

The EK9 may have quite a few differences, but I highly doubt it will be a night and day difference.

 

Me or the OP? I assumed he was just talking about the hatch or coupe since the real ek9 is not really an option.

 

Why would it not be a option?


We don't know where he lives.

 

I guess your right, I just hope he doesn't want to ruin a real CTR with a K motor. Not that it wouldn't be quick it just wouldn't be right IMO

 

It comes down to personal opinon I guess.


I've only seen a handful of CTR's in person, and 2 had k swaps.

 

I have seen 1 CTR in person and it was all OEM and I loved it.

 

ek9 is a much better chassis. It has thicker front and rear sway bars and the chassis has been stitch welded to increase structural rigidity. To put a k in it, you have 2 mount kits to choose from. Ekk1 or ekk2. Ekk1 will put the motor in an awkward position but will allow you to run all original ek9 front suspension parts (sway bar, control arms, steering rack, subframe). Ekk2 will put the engine at a much better, lower, and more towards the back of the engine bay giving you better axle positions and better weight distribution, but you gotta get a dc2 or eg subrame/steering rack/control arms/sway bar to make that work.

as for weight, the k20 is about 45 lbs lighter than the b16b, but the k transmission weighs about 30 more lbs than the b. So weight savings will be about 10-15 lbs overall. The k has proven to be very impressive in ek/dc/eg cars at the track

 

^ That might be one of the best responses I have seen to just about any thread on honda tech