I am attempting to adjust the valves on my 2000 crv. Now before you say this isn't the crv forums, know that the crv forums are dead at 2 post a day. The motors are basically the same as a b18. I posted here for quick response as i need to get my car back together for work in the morning. The motor is a b20. I have done 5 valve adjustments in the past on 4 different honda motors and this is the first time i have encountered this problem.

I rotated the crank counter-clockwise till the up indicators were pointing up on the cam gears. I went to insert my feeler gauge and there is no room to insert it at all on the number one cylinder. Not on the intake or the exhaust valves. It is like this for every cylinder. There is something block where the feeler gauge is supposed to slide in. I have never seen anything like this on all my valve jobs in the past. Any ideas on what i could be doing wrong? I have to get this thing back together asap to make it to work in the morning. I owned 2 different integras and never had a problem doing this adjustment. This procedure would be the same as it is for integras correct? Except of course maybe the valve lash.

 

Lash settings on a CRV B20 are the same as a B18B, and you can use the exact same procedure. Honestly it just sounds like you are at negative clearance on the valves. Just do the adjustment until the feeler gauge goes in and see how she runs.

 

Ignore the factory method.

The easiest way is to turn the engine CCW until all four lobes on the same cylinder point straight up to the sky. Check and adjust as needed on that cylinder.

Now turn the engine CCW until another set of lobes is pointing straight up. Check and adjust as needed on that cylinder.

Repeat until all 4 cylinders have been done. Go over each disturbed locknut with a torque wrench and make certain you have them all at 18 ft/lbs, then button up and go to bed.

Piece of cake.

 

This ^^. They are just to tight right now.

 

Ok so all the valves were too tight. I tried my best to line up the marks on the cam gears. However when i start the engine after a few seconds there is an inconsistant rattle sound It doesn't seem to be in harmony with the rpms of the engine. But does it louder the longer the engine is on. So i turned it off and looked around but I'm thinking it's internal. Which is a real bummer. Should i do the ole screw driver in each cylinder trick to find top dead center of each cylinder? I'm thinking just eying up the 'UP' mark on the cam gears didn't cut it. Sucks now cause i have work in 5 hours and it needs ripped back apart. I failed epic style.

 

The UP marks are just there for reference. They DO NOT determine TDC.

 

Lol so i took it all apart again and readjusted. Seems i was loose on some valves. I adjusted them all to spec. Now i have this rattle type sound that seems to be coming from the distributor? And after it warmed up the sound seemed to go away and a new sound started... a high pitch whistle type sound from the number one cylinder. I put my head next to the cylinder and it's definitely coming from the #1 cylinder. And ideas or thoughts? Had to call off work today for all this crap.

The rattle sound kinda sounds like a loose rock in the dizzy, or bb's in a can being shaken. It goes away when the car warms up. If it was a loose timing belt the rattle would be there all the time right? Not just when cold? I don't see how the timing belt would get loose in a day after doing a valve adjustment. On the other hand i don't see how the distributor bearings would fail in the same situation.

 

distributor bearing. i've had a few go bad on LS motors.

not sure on the other problem you have though.

 

If it was the distributor bearing wouldn't the sound occur the whole time the motor is running? Rather then just on start up/warm up? Also check in the dizzy cap everything looks good and is tight.

 

not necessarily. mine would only do it when the motor was cold.

 

Easy solution is to remove the distributor and have a look. Sounds like a compression test might be in order once you get the rattle figured out.

 

SOLVED: I tightened down the timing belt just slightly more then it was, and presto. The problem is gone. No more rattle inside of the distributor cap. Maybe this wiill help those in the hundreds of other similar post with no solution. Thanks for your suggestions.