new here.. first time honda owner
Hi, I recently bought a 1996 accord ex coupe, and im new here. I think I got a good deal on it but its far from perfect and needs some work.. I plan on fixing a lot of the problems on it myself, but im new to hondas so I will be looking here for a lot of advice. The car is an automatic 4cyl vtec in heather mist, the interior is near mint and everything works, it passes emissions, and was driven 30 miles a day until 2 months ago, when the cv joints got terrible.. the body has a lot of clearcoat peeling but not much rust, needs cv joints at least, maybe a ball joint, wont know till I pull the front wheels off.. makes some terrible pops and clunks when accelerating around corners, also need to change valve cover gasket, and just want to do a general tune up in the future but it runs decent as is.. just dont know when it was done last, and the car runs much better as I took it on the highway and blew all the carbon out of it.. little old lady never took the car over 45 I dont think, 148k miles on it, I think I got a good deal for $200 dollars, so I hope to get the answers im looking for here and meeting new friends so to speak
I think its a good deal, no Its not missing a zero.. I only paid $200 for it, I jumped at the chance as I knew it wouldnt sit long at that price.. the lady was quoted like a grand at a shop to replace cv joints ( which is steep) and she said it was old so they decided to buy a new car instead of fixing it.. their loss my gain I guess
that and the car had a full tank of gas.. a week old oil change, new wipers and she filled the washer fluid on it, which is worth like at least $100 so that sweetened the deal for me.. yeah it needs some work, but less than a grand total I think, for everything even a quick cheap paint touch up, the car is solid and the interior is immaculate, everything works, except the drivers key lock needs adjustment, non smoker and no pets as well
If the PO just put-putted around the EGR ports may be in need of cleaning. That's in the Accord FAQ at the top of the page. Replacing the axles is a simple 15min job, however the axle nut may be a right bitch to loosen if someone used an impact gun.
Others jack the control arm up, and then install a socket between the FLCA and upright, lower the control arm(with the lower BJ nut removed) and it binds/pops the BJ free. I don't care for it as my luck would have the socket ricochet off my forehead on its way to punching a hole in the windshield.
Originally Posted by MAD_MIKE
Remove hubcaps
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nuts, both sides.
Set parking brake. Place the shifter into Neutral.
Loosen front lug nuts.
Jack front of car up and place on jackstands.
Remove front wheels.
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove split pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Flip and reinstall it so it is flush with the bottom of the stud.
Using a floor jack, place the cup directly under the inverted nut and jack the arm up via the nut. It should pop free, you may need to strike the lower control arm with a hammer with a stubborn stud.
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.
Between the fender lip and upper shock mount there will be a plastic plug, remove it.
With tie wire or twine, tie it around the front upper control arm, through the hole, and around the shock mount.
Support the weight of the knuckle and FUCA with the string/wire.
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nuts, both sides.
Set parking brake. Place the shifter into Neutral.
Loosen front lug nuts.
Jack front of car up and place on jackstands.
Remove front wheels.
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove split pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Flip and reinstall it so it is flush with the bottom of the stud.
Using a floor jack, place the cup directly under the inverted nut and jack the arm up via the nut. It should pop free, you may need to strike the lower control arm with a hammer with a stubborn stud.
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.
Between the fender lip and upper shock mount there will be a plastic plug, remove it.
With tie wire or twine, tie it around the front upper control arm, through the hole, and around the shock mount.
Support the weight of the knuckle and FUCA with the string/wire.
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saeeda
Honda Accord & Crosstour (2003 - 2012)
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Feb 8, 2015 10:42 AM




