motor is a ls vtec b18b1 bottom, b16 head supertech valves springs and retainers gsr cams gsr pistons, ITR IM everything else stock. no CEL. we already tried different distributors, changed out IM with regulator. grounds are good. plugs and wires are brand new NGK.

 

be more specific, I hear a reving and a car running..

 

Rpm needle is bouncing all over the place, car is breaking up. Turn the volume up a bit it was hard to record and drive

 

Timing could be off

 

Should of did the video in the daytime, hard to see the needle.

 

change the cap and rotor on the dizzy and see if it helps.

 

Brand new cap and rotor from Honda. Timing is dead on checked it multiple times both cam and dizzy timing

 

Aftermarket distributor?

How's the fuel pressure?

Do the FPR work properly?

Have you checked for dirty injectors?

What are the cylinder compressions?
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Oem dizzy, fuel pressure reads at 38 at idle. Haven't checked the injectors since they were working perfect before the swap. And have not done a compression check

 

What car?

What is the fuel pressure with versus without the FPR vacuum hose connected?

Checking the injectors would be a good idea, as would a compression test.

CEL codes?

 

Car is a 96 civic. I can check the fuel pressure without the hose tomorrow. No cel at all. Is there a difference between vtec and non vtec injectors?

 

For a 96 Civic:

 

Had A similar issue with my B16A EG, Turns out it was the distributor

 

It's your main relay, guaranteed. I had the exact same problem with my Civic a while back. Is there a certain point when your pressing on the gas when the car just seems to cut out and bounce like that?

 

better change that ignitor soon or you risk getting stranded........ignitor controls rpm on your tach.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0gd3V9QLhw

 

I would check to make sure the guage cluster is working as it should, hard to tell from the video. In the past I have heard of this and the resolution was a new distributer and another symptom was that the engine sputtering as well. Before swapping double check those wires as well at the dizzy.

 

seems like an ignition problem that happens at high rpm with high engine load, unless im not seeing the video correctly. does the engine run ok at other rpm until it starts to cut like that. idk what plugs you should be running with an ls/v but id say make sure you have the correct plugs and make sure they're gaped correctly.

 

That's quite possible. I didn't realize how dramatic the rpm bounce was on the tach.

 

if i hold it at 1/2 throttle itll go to about 6-7k but at WOT right at vtec engagement which for me is just under 5k

car drives fine with normal driving. happens at WOT at vtec. im running NGK bkr7e plugs gaped ( buddy of mine did for me )

 

ok so i just tried a different main relay and nothing changed. I took off the hose to the FPR and it was over 40 so i lowered it to 38 and with hose on its now at 26-28 car sounds better at idle when i did that but again nothing changed the way it drives. i dont have a compression tester so i didnt do that but im pretty sure its fine seeing as the car would run fine some days and other days no. its been a good month since it ran good.

 

I'd have to place my bet on ignition control module. I wouldn't use an aftermarket unit.

 

is the control module #10 in this pic?

https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/...0-%20WESTEC%29

 

Yes, thats the one. Run your part number here, this place is cheaper.

http://www.myimportparts.com/partloc...archCatalogOEM

 

is that part of the dizzy? because we tried 3 different ones and still doesnt help the issue and we've put the dizzy's in other cars and they run perfect. is there any sensor that would cause this if it wasnt wired correctly? car had a wire tuck so all the wires were cut and re-soldered

 

Yes, it's inside the distributor.

Solder can cause resistance, home made wire tucks using an extended OE harnesses suck in my opinion.