Hey guys i have a jdm b16 sir2 and boosting it just getting all my parts together. All it has is ITR cams and thats it. I parted my own kit and aiming for 300whp or something around there. This is my daily and my car already has a greddy sp2 exhaust. Will this exhaust hurt me a lot? People tell me its too restrictive. I like having a quite car and love the way this exhaust sounds but if it hurts me in my power i will get something bigger

 

Should be ok to make 300whp.

 

I think the SP2 comes with a silencer that sits inside the muffler, but it's removable. Just make sure there is no silencer in there.

 

i dont think the sp2's come with a silencer. Never seen or heard of that before but i could be wrong. Im just worried the exhaust wont make me get 300whp

 

honestly, it's fine for 300whp.

WITH that said, you would make more power and for sure spool faster with a ecutout, but it's not like +40whp more at that point.

some people perfect to make a few ponies less for having a quite car.
Myself included.

ef hb si gsr turbo gt3540s
60mm rsr ex mag exhaust.... 315whp @ 10psi with ecutout open, and 304whp with it closed

my car is pretty darn quite.

 

Yeah for 300whp it will work and it will be pretty quiet which is what you want. I think the SP2 is 2 1/4 so a bit small. I am only going to run a 2 1/2 turbo back on my LSV turbo with a 300whp goal. A larger exhaust will help the turbo make more power on less boost and decrease heat and boost threshold, but like I said the SP2 will work.

 

i had a SP2 on my Civic when i went turbo. stock LS with S2 manifold..numbers in sig

 

the difference between that and an open exhaust is probably something like 1lb of boost if that for 300whp. this is a turbo car, not NA, a quite exhaust can be compensated with more pressure.

 

If you're REALLY worried about it, go to a muffler shop and get 3" piping done for ~90$
but you shouldn't need it anyways.

 

I am in the same boat. I have a 60mm Apexi WS2. I love the way it sounds and do not want to take it off. I have spoke with numerous people and everyone seems to think it will be fine for under 300hp.

That being said the Skunk2 mega power would be a much better option and I think they go for $540 or so.

You can always throw on the Skunk2 and sell your SP2.

 

I would like to get a ecutout but my bro has one and has so many problems with it. Motor burning out, motor getting loose, n all this other stuff. How hard will it be to make 300+? I have a 60trim turbo .60ar .48 hotside. 3" dp 2.5" piping. Going to boost 10.2lbs.

 

Yea, I've heard similar stories with friends of mine running cutouts, especially annoying *** exhaust rattles.

I believe you have a good chance of making 300whp with the stuff you have listed above.

 

Yea my bros rattles all the time and leaks a little after a while. But its always messing up. All the time he wants to use it, it never opens and its a DTP one or whatever its called. The motor fell off once and was dragging on the road cuz it was still wired up and didnt get disconnected such a hassle. But yea my goal is 300. My b16 will be able to handle 300whp daily right? im going to a good tuner also. Ive learned that its not about psi its about power that stresses the motor. So if i make 300+ at like 13psi will that be fine? I just want to hit my goal.

 

Yea, any healthy B16 is good for a max of 350whp, so dialed back to 300whp should be just fine with proper tuning. However, I do recommend ARP headstuds and rod bolts.

 

Mine is custom made my a fellow honda-tech member.
I'm sure others have thought about it, but he's the first person i know that has made one. Rather than using a electric motor that sits under the car and vibrates with the entire exhaust system & car, he made a "SERVO" powered e-cutout.



Servo: $20
Servo controller/VR parts: $5
Aluminum mount plate: $1?
Controller/VR/mount assembly time: 1.5hr

Ford TB: $25
Cable/endlink/collars/springs: $15
Flange & studs: $10
Flange assembly time: 45min
TB "trimming" (shorten tps side, cut linkage): 15min
Final assembly & adjustment time: 1hr


Quick specs: case is 6x3x2", cutout/pipe is 10x8.5x3", 54" from cutout to box. Three wires, 20awg, 45" long. Only needs +12v & ground, then a grounded or powered switch for the signal wire (jumper select inside). TB can be angled ~15 degrees between the 2 sets of mounting holes in the flange. 2 adjustment pots for open & closed endpoint adjustment.

Some pics:










Here's a DMH cutout, which is fairly fast vs all the other vids I've found. Still not as fast.

http://www.dmhperformance.com/photogallery.htm (look at bottom for vids)


Benefits:
- throttle body are tapered so this ensures proper seal when closed
- no motor on the cutout, this eliminates the motor from seeing vibiration of road racing, lunching, exhaust pipe movement which reduces cutout motor or having it break off (common with many e-cut out)
- servo are proven to last +25,000 motion actuation & very rare to fail. If it does fail, servos are cheap and easy to replace.
- opens is about 1 sec with a push of a button
- can be hooked up to buttons (I use my AC button) or input to ecu to open automatically under specific settings (boost, rpm, ect).

 

^First time I've seen something like that, very cool. My ecut out takes like 10 seconds to fully open.