So before any1 starts to flame stuff like LOL BRO THIS IS EZ BRO WTF BRO:

keep in mind, i know about the brackets and housings and how to get the lights out and all that..
(i guess i should mention i dont even have the housings and the bracket is rusted to **** so the lights r just free dangling atm tied up by zip ties to hang over the plate just above the cut out so it would show the light for the safety inspection)


yes I checked to see if it was plugged in, in the harness and traced the wires in trunk of course....

No.. nothing is broken or w/e...

Yes i changed the bulbs with new ones....
yes i traced wires inside the trunk hatch liner on the hatch and in the trunk, everythings plugged in and clean..

But the damn lights are not lighting up.

The only thing I can think of thats causing it is a fuse, but absolutely every electronic works.. and every light works, there is nothing wrong it seems but the license plate lights are just not lighting up..

i even tried putting car in reverse, using the brakes, tried with the car started and on, tried with the car only in ign and 1 and 2 mode.
tried running lights, high beams and parking lights mode. still nada...

this just doesnt make sense... lol the only thing i can think of, does the housings provide ground? and maybe since i dont have the housings it isnt grounding?? shrug..

any input ?

i need to get these working to safety the car lol.

thanks in advance

 

did you try taking the bulbs out and turning them 180 degrees and putting back in?

 

What does the voltmeter say, as you trace those wires back from the socket?

 

no, i will try this tmw, but really think that could be it? lol


i have a mastercraft 52-0060 multimeter, but i have n oclue on how to set it to check the wires, im kinda retarded when it comes to these things lol. i cant even get it to beep when i touch it together when checking for continuity or w/e, unless this one doesnt beep, heh..

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

this is the one i have, if ucan tell me where to set it and stuff i can come back with the readings and we see if the wires or harness is messed up, because i did get rear ended a while ago, maybe somewhere in the line they are broken and i just dont see it but i need to know how to use this meter lol

 

To use that voltmeter, set it to '20' - which is about 10 o'clock on the dial (top-left quadrant).

Black lead in the center, red lead on the right hand (V, Ohm, ma).

that's a 20 volt scale so it should work handily for 12V - objective here is to have the measured voltage fall comfortably in the range indicated.

When using the meter, touch the black lead to ground (chassis, metal socket, or one of the two wires) - touch the red lead where you expect 12V from the battery.

No big deal if you switch them, the electronics just show a minus sign (-); glories of digital electronics.

If you want to check continuity, place the dial about 6:00 (200 Ohm), a good circuit won't add but a few ohms as you go through the harness.

The diode picture (about 5:30 on the dial, one step CCW from the previous 200Ohm setting) should be the one that beeps when you put the test leads together.

That one's handy for checking fuses and bulbs, lengths of wire, etc.

Mark

 

The license plate light is a 168 bulb. Its a wedge bulb. If you are getting power to the harness then you probably just reversed the polarity, i.e you put it in wrong like a battery.

 

Yes I believe it could be it. Reversed polarity.

 

alright ill try it in the morning when idont wake ppl up, but for now i tested the 5:30 thing and still no beep lol, i dont think this one beeps tbh. i havnt heard it beep yet lol.

as for testing continuity of the harness, what does this mean exactly, to see if a specific wire has continuious flow of current?

(excuse me for the questions) never was any good at these multi meter, volt meter electrical type stuff lol.

i will try the bulbs first thing tmw, if that doesnt work then i will test the leads at the bulb socket with that 20 setting @ 10 o clock, so u say just touching the ground to a socket will work for ground eh.

what reading am i looking for on the scale if it is working or not working ?

i assume i do this with the car ON ?

 

What year and model is this Integra?

If we knew that, somebody could have a browse through the relevant wiring diagrams for you...

 

Say what, ROFL.

I know your trying to help, but stop it. 94

 

lol well switching the bulbs around didint work.

so im gonna test the wires now, i just finished setting my timing fro ma dizzy replace so ill let you guys know whats up with the results

 

Yes - to test VOLTAGE (10 o'clock on the dial), turn the lights on as you would expect in order to send power to the license plate lights. Sometimes, when the only thing I can reach is the wire, I use stick pins to pierce the insulation and contact the copper wire - and then touch the voltmeter leads to the stick pins.

As for continuity - yes, it means continuous (unbroken) and therefore means there is a path for the electricity to follow. You shouldn't see more than a few ohms with (the dial at 6 o'clock) - e.g. the display should read a single digit number.

When you measure continuity (Ohms) - TURN ALL THE POWER OFF.

Never measure Ohms where power is present, as you could damage the meter - use the Volts setting (10 o'clock) for that.

Mark

 

i had this same issue, one side the bulb needed to be 180 turned. positive and negative needs to be in the right place. the other side, the plugs where the bulbs go in got stretched open, i used a needle nose pliers to squeeze them back to normal shape. gl maybe this helps.

 

I don't think there is a positive/negative on these bulbs.

It appears that the leads are such that they'll be in the same place when rotated 180-deg:



Still, to benefit from the point you're trying to make... it appears that inspecting the socket to make sure everything lines up and makes contact sounds like a good idea.

If it's corroded enough (you mentioned earlier), perhaps the contacts are corroded also? You can try copper cleaner (rinse really well), or try electrical contact cleaner (any auto parts store) and see if you can get the contacts clean again.

?

Mark

 

turns out the contacts were coroded abit, i had to insert the bulbs a couple times and take em out and insert again it cleaned the contacts enough for them to work.

i still wanna get some cleaner and use it to clean em , cause they have been without bulbs for a while so i guess sitting for two years made them corode enough to not make conatct.

on that note thanks every1 for your help and support, i learned a lot in this thread thanks mark !! :] and fcm for being there and answering my pms and helping me with other various things as well.

this is what makes honda tech. good input and good users..

keep it up guys ! :D

<3

also for any1 interested, i passed etest today with flyin colors, gotta replace a seized caliper now asap and get teh safety done.

thanks again

 

Yeah grab a flathead covered with sandpaper and run it in the sockets a few times. worked for me!

 

leds bulbs are pos neg

 

If OP had said he had LED bulbs it would have been mentioned. 94