ok the car is a 95 civic coupe with a poor mans type r.when i turn the car not starting but to check for codes there is no check engine light but when i put the pin in the plug to check for codes the check engine light goes on and stays solid and the srs light starts blinking.now when the car is fully on the check engine light goes on.any ideas?

 

so nobody knows what the problem could be.come on honda tech members.

 

Solid light when checking the codes means you have no stored codes. If the light is coming on while driving, find a safe place to pull over, keep the car running then check the light and see if it gives you a series of blinks.

 

Please use some punctuation in your text because it's difficult to understand.

Can I assume that the starter cranks the engine but it won't start? Is there spark at the plugs? Does the fuel pump prime?

If the CEL is on steady both with and without the service connector jumped, then you have CEL code 0. In this case, start by checking whether fuse 24 or 31 is blown. Also test the main relay.

 

I think his car is running but the check engine light comes on when driving, but when he checks the light with the car off (key on) he only gets a solid light. I think he's referring to this in the FAQ:

Tip #2: In some cases, for 5th generation Civics (92-95), the CEL may turn on while driving, but if the engine is turned off, the CEL and CEL code will be lost. The workaround to allow recovery of the code when this happens is to safely pull to the side of the road and leave the engine running while you jump the service connector.

 

so your saying i should start the car leave it running and then jump the plug?

 

ok did that and there was 4 long blinks n 1 short.looked it up and said it was the primary oxygen sensor heater.how do i fix this?

 

Start here ---> Measure the resistance across the two terminals of the O2 sensor heater element.

 

sorry but how do i do that?

 

You need a multimeter.

 

yah i dont think i can get a hold of one.is there any other way?what does that do?

 

Lol you are in trouble if you can't get ahold of a multimeter. If there is no way you can get one go buy a new o2 sensor and shotgun it. That's deffinately not the most efficient way to troubleshoot but it might work. Just make sure wherever you buy the o2 sensor you can return it. Good luck

 

damn really.yah im basically on my own on this.what would the mulitmeter do anyway?

 

You would use it to measure the resistance of the heater circuit on the o2 sensor.

 

You can buy a cheapo one for 5 dollars at Walmart or Harbor Freight.

 

would i need it even if im getting a new one?

 

Spend the money on a multimeter. Its nice to have whether its cheap or not and can save you a lot of time and money on "Not shotgunning"

 

shotgunning meaning?

 

Replacing parts at random.

 

what if i know its the o2 sensor for sure?would i still need?sorry for all the questions.

 

The multimeter will just confirm if it is or isn't. If you know its the O2 for sure just buy the O2, clear the code and see if it comes back.

 

with most cars these days a multimetre is right up there with a comp test to find out the state of your car!

 

How do you know with certainty that the O2 sensor is bad? Code 41 can also be thrown by a bad wire or ECU. To pinpoint the problem, you need to do tests with a multimeter.

 

Miss Cleo told him.

OP. What is the resistance in just getting multimeter and testing the sensor? Hope your new o2 sensor fixes the problem. If not you're back at square one.

 

im on a budget thats why and this would be the only time i would be using it.but ill see what i can do.