I just adjusted my timing belt because it was off a tooth, yah I know long story, refer to this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/b18b-timing-issue-2992998/

As of now the idle is perfect at 750RPM's. Just got smogged and passed with flying colors /w timing at 16* BTDC.

Now I got a new problem. At cold starts it is very rough to get into first gear (From a stop) It is even worse if you try to start on a hill (More load). Every other gear is fine to shift to and from rev matching and everything. Just from a stop into first gear when letting out the clutch it shakes the whole car and jolts it then gets into 1st gear. It is only bad at a cold start, once it is up to operating temp, it is not that bad. However there still is a plastic sound that I can hear.

Will simply tightening it more help? I didnt use a calibrated torque wrench to put it on or impact gun or anything like that, just a 1/2inch drive wrench 19mm socket and a cheater bar with all the strength i had.

Here is the video I just uploaded of my car doing the same thing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqEjU...ature=youtu.be

 

Is it easy to get into 1st from neutral with the engine OFF? If so, your clutch slave/master cylinder(s) may be leaky.

I'm a bit confused. Is this plastic-sound related to the wobble or the clutch? You have put both the wobble and the clutch in the same paragraph, making it hard to tell which you mean.

Also, my ears are pretty bad (two hearing aids), so I'm having a bit of trouble placing the sound you refer to in your video. Is it a whirring noise? If a whirring noise, the timing belt is too tight.

Possible causes:
1) pulley bent;
2) dirt or rust trapped between pulley and crank nose;
3) woodruff key not fully-seated and standing proud of crank nose.

Your crank bolt should be torqued to 130 ft/lbs. Your tightening method may or may not have achieved that figure--or it may have greatly exceeded it, which is very bad. I strongly advise you to have a garage confirm the torque. They need do nothing more than rack the car, remove the left-front wheel and splash shield, then re-torque the bolt.

However, if the pulley is wobbling because it's not seated properly, even a properly-torqued bolt may eventually work its way loose and fall off. You don't want that to happen, trust me.

 

No, with the engine ON in a cold start, engaging first gear with the clutch is kind of hard and takes time, and stutters then jolts into gear.

Not totally sure, but its definitely coming from the belts side of the engine.


Its best heard at around 0:12 sec's to 0:20 sec's. Dont turn it up too loud, you'll hear too much distortion.

 

You could try a MTF change or bleed your clutch slave but going into first gear in the conditions you describe is pretty close to normal; it's just not the easiest to engage.

Being that you just worked down by the pulley you need to revisit the installation. However, it looks like the rubber portion of the pulley is shot and they start wobbling when that happens, and it can and does happen when it's old and you re-install it. It's common bro.

Add>
Re reading 1st gear, if it jolts and shakes it could be pressure plate and or disc wear too. Not being there I can't say.

The crank damper should be tended to as soon as possible.

 

I jacked up the car, and got someone to hold the brakes and put it 5th gear, and I put my torque wrench to 150ft/lbs and tried tightening it. When applying torque the wrench stopped and clicked, im assuming the bolt is torqued down higher than 150ft/lbs?

Is it safe to drive with the pulley wobbling? Ive even redlined it like 3 times in this condition.

 

When in doubt, redo it all over again.

 

Hoping I dont have to do that.

 

It's not hard to just take off all the external belts and remove the pulley to inspect it. Better safe then sorry.

 

What would I be looking for when I inspect it? Because I just did the timing belt a couple of days ago, and when we took off the pulley, it looked just fine? Key slid right in and everything.

 

Make sure the timing belt covers are bolted down. Loose screws hanging around. Just anything in general. I don't see how a pulley can go bad.

 

Normally you can see either misalignment in the rubber part or deterioration of it. The fact is that if it's tightened properly then that's what you're looking at.

A couple of days after I had my engine rebuilt it happened to me, it's a common occurance bnetkillzone.

As to do you need to have it done consider it's actually called a crankshaft harmonic balancer. You DON'T want it to wobble or worse come off. It needs to be done yesterday and it WILL get worse, sorry.

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how...balancer-works

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You're right. I forgot the OP has the kind of pulley with the rubber insert.

Just recently in this group a guy had his pulley almost come apart, and you could plainly see the exposed rubber insert in his pictures; it looked as though the pulley was on backwards. Get it replaced!

 

That does sound like a leaky slave/master, which would mean the pressure plate is not being pulled back sufficiently. Better have that checked out.


To my ears it sounds like a whirring noise. But then my ears are very bad. I listened several times, and all I can hear is whirring. Maybe it's the pulley rubbing against the timing belt cover?

If I were you, I'd pull the valve cover and upper timing belt cover and make certain there's at least some slack in the belt. If the belt is too tight, it will break on you.

 

That's about 15% overtorqued. But what if it's actually more than that? Unfortunately, since you're at the limit of your wrench, you can't know. Sufficient overtorquing could result in damage to the bolt or the threads in the crank nose. I would buzz it loose and retorque properly, if it were me.

If the halves have separated and are coming apart, then no, it's not safe.

 

Instead of buying a new one, there are pick n pulls in the area with crank pulleys for just around 25 bucks. I would love to dish out 180 bucks, but thats just too much. Are pick n pulls fine for this part?

 

Check your local craigslist add as well. Pick n pulls might have them as well.

 

Ok, weirdest thing. This morning I had to go drop my sister off at school. Around 7:30AM pacific time, pretty cold outside, i'd say low 40's, started right up, let it warm up for about a good 40 secs, then reversed out of the driveway, put it in 1st and it was a pretty smooth transition. There was no jolting or stuttering of any sort.

And the balancer is still wobbling as you saw in the video, fully warmed up @ 750RPMS.

 

Was it a problem before you retimed the motor? 40 is warm, try waking up to below 30 everyday haha

 

No, cold starts before I did the timing belt was fine.

 

Wow, ok. So I cold start it again after work, let it idle for about 30 to 40 secs, then the problem of the jolting start returned again but not as bad.

BTW everyone, I cant deal with this problem until my finals are over, next wednesday at the latest, is when I can start working on her again.

 

Then it leads me to think installation error.

 

I agree, most likely the balancer because I installed the timing belt perfectly, was not off a tooth or anything, timed it and put it to 16*.

If I am correct this is what I would do to take the pulley off:

-Remove top and bottom timing cover
-Lower splash guard
-Take off driver side wheel
-Jack it up
-Crack the giant bolt holding the balancer

After that I would take off the balancer and look for what before I put it back on?

Also I hear there is a gasket between the pulley and crank? I didnt quite see that when installing, might have missed it.

Another person said that I should put on the pulley very slowly and line everything up perfectly and put the key in, then tighten.

^ Does this seem like the right procedures?

 

Seems right, there should be a metal piece that sits between the pulley and the oil pump. Make sure it's still there.

But I would first loosen the driver side tire then jack it up aha. Honestly it's not that hard, maybe the pulley is just pushed against something that shouldn't be there.

Also remove all accessory belts before loosening the crank pulley bolt.

 

Yeah i'd be hard to take a wheel off with the car's load on it haha. Yeah i'll try and do this next week unfortunately, final's and work then im free for a month.

 

Goodluck, feel free to PM me if you need any guidance, also goodluck with finals. I'm already on Winter break ahaha.