Originally Posted by notsolfast

If you wanted to save some money, you don't absolutely need the valve springs and retainers. I would put that money more towards a tune. What are your power goals?

Originally Posted by asianboi313

It's 56 bucks per injector and I would look into investing Vitaras and FJ rods.

Originally Posted by spazmatt527

My power goals are right around 200whp, which is what the D16Z6 can handle on stock internals.



I don't have the equipment or money to pull the engine out and swap pistons/rods. If it turns out my piston rings are indeed shot, I guess I will have to save up and bite the bullet, but I'd really like to avoid pulling the block out.

Originally Posted by nealnanoHX

Well as I said there are many better choices for turbos but seems like you are hell bent on the 14B. I would go with DSM 450cc injectors as the 310s will max out on you pretty quick. Save the money from the valve train upgrade and put it into tuning, a wide band, boost and oil pressure gauges and ARP head studs. Also 140psi and 155psi is a 15psi difference between cylinders, pretty sure that is not really good. I will look up the D16Z6 cylinder specs today at work, but pretty sure that is a little on the low side.

Originally Posted by spazmatt527

1. Cast Iron T3 Log Manifold - $67 - ok

2. Manifold Wastegate Blockoff (14B is internally gated) - $18 - ok but almost free to make

3. Intercooler (option #1) - $59 - ok
Intercooler (option #2) - $140 - way to big

4. Charge Piping (2" option) - $60 - ok
Charge Piping (3" option) - $65 - again way to big

5. Blow Off Valve - $45 -ok

6. Blow Off Valve Adapter - $18 - buy a kit with pre-installed bov flange and save some money, dont forget it'll be another 20-40 to have it welded

7. 14B Oil Feed Line - $30

8. 14B Oil Drain Line - $30

9. 310cc High Impedance Fuel Injectors (No resistor box needed) - $56 - dsm 450's

10. 14B Downpipe Flange - $29 -ok

11. Downpipe Flange Gasket - $9 - ok

12. Wideband O2 Bung & Plug - $8 - whoever builds your down pipe sould have this but w/e

13. Hondata S100 ECU - $195 - dont waste money on things you dont need....first step is to ask around for a reputable tuner in your area....call find out what systems he will tune....it'd suck to spend 200 on a system the tuner refuses to tune with

14. Vacuum Manifold - $42 -ok

15. Electronic Boost Controller - $143 - waste....buy an nxs boost controller....offer the guy 15 shipped he will accept ....i used one for 3+ years

16. Titanium Valve Springs/Retainers - $285 big waste of money, if anything new oem or aftermarket valves....the 14b will run out of breath before your stock redline....you only need springs to wind it out higher...and retainers are a waste....i rev to 8500 on stock retainer at 22psi on an hx35

17. Valve Stem Seals - $25 just buy a felpro master gasket set for ~100, these are included

18. Oil Pan With Turbo Oil Drain Line Hole - $185- you have a oil pan....drill a f-in hole in it....go to autozone buy a 5/8ths metal heater hose fitting and jb weld it on your pan....again i have the same thing on mine

19. Fuel Pump - $99 -ok

20. T3 Manifold To 14B Turbo Flange - $30 -ok

Is there anything I should add to that list? What should I remove/change?

you dont need a port and polish, even at my level i dont see much for gains, you may actually lose power....now valvework, everyone wins....a good 5 angle, back cut, deshroud and cleaned up bowls is where you see the gains

arp head studs are a must

Originally Posted by ZLboosted_EG

This.
440 would be better with fuel demand over the 310's as stated. If all you want is 200WHP keep the engine internally stock. If the motor give out you can replace it with another (healthy of course) bone stock motor and be exactly where you were at. When you have A/M rods, pistons, cams, etc anything that gets damaged has to be replaced along with the new engine to have the same setup again costing more money. When the engine is stock you can buy another stock motor and slap it in and be on your way. Those turbos pretty much have no lag and spool qwk.

Spend the money on the tune/tuner so it's actually streetable and fun to dd.

Originally Posted by spazmatt527

A lot of people are suggesting ARP Head Studs. How do I install these? Do I need to pull the motor out?

Originally Posted by 92/00CXhatch

If your looking to save money on your build turboing it probably isnt your answer. even at 8 pounds is pushing it on stock internals and honestly i wouldnt cruise around town on much more than 5. spend some extra cash and build it to handle the boost. no sence blowing motor after motor after motor. eventually you'll spend more in motors than your set up is worth. save up your money and do it RIGHT!!! Hondas are great for cheap upgrades but you still need to reinforce it before you expect your motor to last. At least i expect mine to last 75-100 thousand miles bouncin of rev limit every chance i get. Maybe its just me but i would recommend the same

Originally Posted by scottdh20

Arp head studs are just replacement headbolts....your bblock and head are bolted together via the headstuds with a headgasket between the mating surfaces....but factory headboltsare single use and will not provide enough clamping force to hold the seal on a boosted motor

Apr headstuds are just that it is a stud you thread into the block unill they are hand tight....then set the h/g on then the head and you put bolts on the studs.....look up pics on google

Originally Posted by ZLboosted_EG

not entirely true. Buddy is still running his sohc-t Sol on 12 psi daily. Granted he doesn't drive it like a jack *** and drives/cruises it as if it were stock. 8 psi on that turbo isnt making too much power, and 5 psi isn't even worth all the labor in my opinion. A boost setup can last as long as the owner and tuner intended it to. Tuner can make it as safe from detonation or damage as he can or push the ign timing as much as he can to pull all the HP out of it. Most tuners will max it and then back it off to a safer point. All in the TUNE.

Originally Posted by nealnanoHX

ARP head studs are great to have. I however will not be using them on my LS Vtec turbo, I just put the head on with new head bolts and only plan on 300whp. The stock head bolts will be ok but are known to stretch on D motors at around 250whp. My next motor that I will be building in a year or 2 will have ARP head studs for sure.
And yeah 5 psi only LOL. Dont go on psi go on hp. 200whp on a healthy D series is no problem at all, and it will take at the least 10 psi with the 14B to get it there. As scottdh20 said it will take however much boost it takes to get you there, you build a motor to handle higher hp not boost pressure and boost pressure to hp is dependent on many things the turbo being used being only one of them.

Originally Posted by scottdh20

get the car to full operating temp.

remove all 4 spark plugs

start at cyl number 1 (driver side)

insert the gauge and go crank it 3-5 revolutions and write down the number

repeat for all cyl.

report to us the full line up

also try a leakdown test

Originally Posted by scottdh20

get the car to full operating temp.

remove all 4 spark plugs

UNPLUG DIZZ AND FUEL INJECTORS

start at cyl number 1 (driver side)

insert the gauge and go crank it 3-5 revolutions WITH THROTTLE WIDE OPEN and write down the number

repeat for all cyl.

report to us the full line up

also try a leakdown test

Originally Posted by nealnanoHX

There I fixed it for you
OP your compression is low, I would not boost on that low of compression.