I am doing the big three, if any one has pics? Or would like to help me with it. Please comment below. And do i need to upgrade engine to chasee ground???

 

Wait, what are you doing?

 

He's going to do Ford, GM, and Chrysler in da butt.

 

IIRC big three references upgrading the wiring locations for like the alternator to the battery, battery to ground and engine to ground.

Not really worth it unless you've got more powerful stereo equipment.

 

LMAO!

 

I have 2 Sundown 12s on 2000 rms...
It needs to be done.
Im pretty sure i know what im doing.
I just wanted some pics of some honda accords around my year done.
I have all the wire and a new alt ready.
And someone told me there is a ground, engine block to chasee? That i have to upgrade also?

 

http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=117879

 

Would i need to upgrade valve cover to alt ground?
And should i fuse the charge wire...?
Ive had alot of ppl tell me it doesnt matter. But im not sure.

 

If you bypass the fuse block and go straight from the battery to the alternator, then yes, you need an inline fuse. Not necessary if you just follow the factory wire routing.

 

Oh... well, I still like my answer better...
I wouldn't think that the cam/valve/head cover needs a larger cable. Honda bonds the cover because it is isolated from all electrical loads, the washers under the cover bolt heads have rubber. Without some form of bonding to the rest of the grounded systems, the cover could possibly build up a capacitance like charge from being in close proximity to the spark plug wires. It just removes any potential.

Now the grounds leading from the head to the mount at the front of the engine, and again from the (-) battery cable to the transmission should be stout enough to keep the battery and chassis bonded to the engine.

 

So all need to upgrade is, (-) to engine block, (-) to chase, (+) charge wire to alt? Right?

 

- chase to batt 0 gadge
- block to batt 0 gadge
+ alt to batt 0 gadge
+ batt to fusebox 8 or 4 if you can fit it go 0 gadge
+ batt to starter 0 gadge

also i would run some 0 gadge from one frame to the other for max grounding. If you have any more qs ask my team at teamnwspl.com and theyll hook ya up glad to hear ya got good gear....also if your running a rear mounted batt run -2 gadge to the batt from the alt.

 

I really dont want to mess with the fuse box and starter...

 

Those and the grounds are the easiest ones to replace.

 

Well. Do i really need to do that? I thought it was the big 3 not big 5 lol.

 

And the starter is kinda hard to get to..

 

Today's spelling lesson... CHASSIS and GAUGE

 

No need to touch the valve cover or fuse box wires

I ran my alt wire straight to my first battery and left the stock wire in place. Then upgraded the transmission ground, and battery ground. I was doing over a 145 with 2 sa-12's and 1200 watts

 

-_-

 

Awsome! Thats what i like to hear. I also have a 160a alt ill be installing.
Did you fuse the charge wire?

 

No I didn't but god knows I'll get bitched at and called a hack for telling you that you don't need it

If you want a 140amp oem Honda alt kit for your car, let me know. I had 3 group 31 batteries and a 140amp alt. serious overkill but better to have too much rather then not enough


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2ZKXtwVzAI

 

Well the alt i got is direct bolt on. I don't think i need one.
I was going to put my alt on myself but im not to sure how to lol.

 

Who did you get the alt from? Is there any way you can return it? Unless its a Mechman unit or oem Honda, return it if possible

 

Ace alt off ebay. I dout i can return. Why would i want to though? I got a good deal on it.

 

Because it most likely won't actually put out that kind of amperage at a useable rpm, if at all