CRX starting issue...PLEASE HELP!!!
Just to give some background on the car
1988 CRX SI
ZC DOHC swap
OBD0
pretty much stock except for I/E and B&M FPR
I bought it off some guy for a pretty good price and with any car that you get at a "decent" price it needs some work done to it. Anyways... I bought the car on 11/26/2011 and it would start with no problems all the time. Until I bought a speedo cable and installed it, after i installed it i went for a drive to check out the fruits of my labor. The car started feeling lagy and sputtering. Then it shut off on me and wouldnt start at all. Pop the hood and saw that one of the sparkplug wire came off so i put it back on and the car still would start. The car cranks all day but it will take a few tries to start. Like in the morning it will pretty much start like on my 2nd or 3rd try. but after i drive it for a while and shut it off it is a pain to start back up again. also I notice that the car when in low rpms it will give a quick yank forward until i press the gas the it goes away (dont what that means??).
I took it to some really good mechanic to give it a quick run down (before the starting issue accured) and he said that my map sensor was going bad. Cuz the car was running rich. So im thinking that it maybe that so I bought a DA map sensor on ebay and Im waiting on delivery.
So clif notes:
1) car difficult to start in the morning and even more challenging after a drive
2) Give quick yanks forward when driving in low rpms
3) map sensor could be bad
Please guys ANY HELPFUL feedback would be great. Thanks in advance!!
1988 CRX SI
ZC DOHC swap
OBD0
pretty much stock except for I/E and B&M FPR
I bought it off some guy for a pretty good price and with any car that you get at a "decent" price it needs some work done to it. Anyways... I bought the car on 11/26/2011 and it would start with no problems all the time. Until I bought a speedo cable and installed it, after i installed it i went for a drive to check out the fruits of my labor. The car started feeling lagy and sputtering. Then it shut off on me and wouldnt start at all. Pop the hood and saw that one of the sparkplug wire came off so i put it back on and the car still would start. The car cranks all day but it will take a few tries to start. Like in the morning it will pretty much start like on my 2nd or 3rd try. but after i drive it for a while and shut it off it is a pain to start back up again. also I notice that the car when in low rpms it will give a quick yank forward until i press the gas the it goes away (dont what that means??).
I took it to some really good mechanic to give it a quick run down (before the starting issue accured) and he said that my map sensor was going bad. Cuz the car was running rich. So im thinking that it maybe that so I bought a DA map sensor on ebay and Im waiting on delivery.
So clif notes:
1) car difficult to start in the morning and even more challenging after a drive
2) Give quick yanks forward when driving in low rpms
3) map sensor could be bad
Please guys ANY HELPFUL feedback would be great. Thanks in advance!!
ok just check my ecu..ran 2 test..
without reseting ecu it thre out 3 codes. its blinked 7 times then, paused, then 9, pause, 17 (seperate blinks)
now after resetting the ecu it only blinks 7 times
if im reading the codes correctly the first try was 7=throttle angle, 9=No1 cylinder position, 17= vss
2nd try was just 7= throttle angle
without reseting ecu it thre out 3 codes. its blinked 7 times then, paused, then 9, pause, 17 (seperate blinks)
now after resetting the ecu it only blinks 7 times
if im reading the codes correctly the first try was 7=throttle angle, 9=No1 cylinder position, 17= vss
2nd try was just 7= throttle angle
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i seriously doubt it has anything to do with the MAP - your symptoms sound more like the TPS - maybe when you wre installing the speedo cable, you accidently knocked a wire loose on the TPS - since you are getting a code 7, i would check the wiring to the TPS connector
i just had this same issue, code 7 is tps, mine needed to be dialed in, get a multimeter, set it at 20v and test the center wire on the tps plug, should be close to .45 volts with throttle closed, and then test again at wide open throttle should get around 4.5volts if not you need to adjust it
Op, if you find that the TPS needs to be adjusted, it will probably be easiest to remove the throttle body from the car. I say this because if you're dealing with the original hardware on the TPS, it's not slotted. The way I've always gotten around this was by using a Dremel tool to cut a slot into the hardware so that I could break them loose with a screwdriver.
we figured out the issue. one of the problems was the tps that needed to be adjusted. but the main issue was the distributor that went bad. so since im broke as hell for the time being he fabbed a 0bd0 b16 dizzy up to my zc. thanks for your guys input
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Psykomantis00
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Feb 25, 2014 04:52 AM




