90 civic missing real bad
Ok, I need some help. I was driving home the other day and my car started missing real bad. I limped it home and pulled the plug wires. I noticed that there was alot of oil in the valleys. I pulled the valve cover and cleaned up the excess oil, replaced the plugs and all the gaskets. It is still missing. Anyone have any ideas?
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Ignition coil might have gone bad, had it happen to me plenty of times. try another, if it doesn't work return it. Try to figure out where that coolant is coming from.....and do a comp. test. Only way oil would be in the cylinders is if the valve seals are shot or the rings, hope that helps, could be a bent valve. Start with the least alternative, basic check-ups like fuses and grounds. Lmk what happens...
- Lucky6
- Lucky6
Ok, thanks. I'm pretty sure that it's something simple. As for the antifreeze leak, I think it's a hose. My mechanic is going to pick it up today Hopefully he will figure it out pretty quick. I will update as soon as I find out.
Last edited by royzacsdad; Dec 2, 2011 at 07:23 AM.
ok. I've been out of town for a while. Just talked to my mechanic and he told me that I only have 40psi compression in 1 cylinder. The other 3 have around 140psi. He thinks that it is either a broken or cracked ring or a weak spring. Hopefully he will find out for sure today. Anyone have any other opinions?
It's probably got a blown headgasket as 'N3va3vaSatisfi3d' already said.
WAY more common than what your mechanic is saying.
Well my mechanic told me he is sure it's a valve. He is gonna pull the head tonight and send it to the machine shop to have it rebuilt. Should be back on the road in a week or so.
Seems to be the common theme here. People that are clueless but waste our time trying to figure out if they are getting screwed or not. I have an extremely hard time believing that it was a valve.... then again - he didn't diagnose anything; just "Oh it's a uhh... valve, yeah, a valve. Off to the machine shop with his head!" (Pun intended.)
First of all I have taken the advice of eceryone who has commented. Second, What the hell is your point? Who cares if I do all the work myself or if someone else does it. The reason for the tread is to get other opinions. Isn't that the point for this? I have talked to my friend (mechanic) about every opinion that I have recieved on this thread and he has followed up on all of them. Just because I don't know as much as some of you that doesn't mean that I am not trying to learn. So as for all of your smart *** remarks, keep them to yourself. I do appreciate all of you who are trying to help. Not so much the others who are trying to act like they are better than others. What makes you think that it isn't a valve anyway?
A broken valve would have ZERO compression. I have seen my fair share of D15B7's with chipped valves and the compression was always 0. A burnt valve by a long shot could be causing that much of a pressure drop but is FAR from common in these engines and typically can only be had when a warm test is performed.
There are multiple ways to do it right; but multiple test in conjunction would determine the problem exactly. Lost is the "art form" of diagnostics.
Check Engine Oil for signs of major problems.
Coolant Paper Test for Exhaust Gas (Not always reliable, and I don't usually do it.)
Cold Compression Test - NO Oil
Cold Compression Test - Oil Added
Cold Leak-Down Test
Warm Engine Running - Watch Vacuum Gauge
Warm Compression Test - NO Oil
Warm Compression Test - Oil Added
Warm Leak-Down Test
This is the order I go in whenever I want to KNOW the condition of the engine. There are reasons for testing warm and cold alike. Sometimes when in a hurry a few steps are skipped - but the only true way to diagnose a valve (without too much work) is a vacuum gauge. This in conjunction with a compression/leak-down test will help you pin-point the problem. The other thing that can pin-point on its own is a leak-down test. Though it's not always easy to hear exactly where it's leaking from; especially on an old tired engine.
The point of what was said is this is to help the community. If somebody is getting paid to do the work then they should do it - not rely on other people to do their job. They have sites you can go on and talk to "Certified Mechanics" for a fee. When that fee runs out you have to pay more before they will help you any further. Most of those guys come on these forums to make money - it's a matter of principle; stop feeding off others hard work and figure it out for yourself. If We were getting paid - I doubt any of us would care about it; but since we are not we try to help people that are doing their OWN work and save some money in the process.
There are multiple ways to do it right; but multiple test in conjunction would determine the problem exactly. Lost is the "art form" of diagnostics.
Check Engine Oil for signs of major problems.
Coolant Paper Test for Exhaust Gas (Not always reliable, and I don't usually do it.)
Cold Compression Test - NO Oil
Cold Compression Test - Oil Added
Cold Leak-Down Test
Warm Engine Running - Watch Vacuum Gauge
Warm Compression Test - NO Oil
Warm Compression Test - Oil Added
Warm Leak-Down Test
This is the order I go in whenever I want to KNOW the condition of the engine. There are reasons for testing warm and cold alike. Sometimes when in a hurry a few steps are skipped - but the only true way to diagnose a valve (without too much work) is a vacuum gauge. This in conjunction with a compression/leak-down test will help you pin-point the problem. The other thing that can pin-point on its own is a leak-down test. Though it's not always easy to hear exactly where it's leaking from; especially on an old tired engine.
The point of what was said is this is to help the community. If somebody is getting paid to do the work then they should do it - not rely on other people to do their job. They have sites you can go on and talk to "Certified Mechanics" for a fee. When that fee runs out you have to pay more before they will help you any further. Most of those guys come on these forums to make money - it's a matter of principle; stop feeding off others hard work and figure it out for yourself. If We were getting paid - I doubt any of us would care about it; but since we are not we try to help people that are doing their OWN work and save some money in the process.
I don't think it matters who does the work. If I knew what i was doing i would do it myself. If I had the time i would do it myself. But I don't have the time nor do i know that much about engines. I appreciate your knowledge and thank you for sharing but it's the sarcasm i don't like. Maybe I'm wrong but i thought this sight was to share and help each other out. If I could share some insight to help someone i would. I just don"t think it"s right to try to bring someone down just because they are not as knowledgeable. Again thanks for the positive input. . I do most of my own work but there are things that I can't do nor have the tools to do. Any way I just found out that it is a chipped valve. Thank you everyone for the help.
Last edited by royzacsdad; Dec 19, 2011 at 10:46 AM.
okay, I'm stumped. Got the chipped valve replaced and the head done and a new cam, new plugs, new wires, new distributor cap and rotor bug. The car is still missing. Does anyone have any ideas? I picked it up from my friend/mechanic yesterday. Can't decide if I should fix it or sell it. Please help...
lol. We/he checked all of that. It still has low compression in one cylinder. Do you think it's in the bottom end?
Last edited by royzacsdad; Jan 10, 2012 at 05:43 PM.


