Crower cams
Looks for signs of wear, both on the bearing surfaces but especially on the side of the lobe that does the lifting. Signs of abnormal wear would be scuffing and especially scratches, flat spots - anything that says too many miles, improper installation (spring bind / excessive pressure), running out of oil, etc.
The surfaces will be smooth and shiny with normal wear, but should not show flat spots, scratches, or galling (roughness due to lack of oil or excessive pressure breaking down the oil barrier).
The surfaces will be smooth and shiny with normal wear, but should not show flat spots, scratches, or galling (roughness due to lack of oil or excessive pressure breaking down the oil barrier).
Last edited by mark@silbernage; Nov 29, 2011 at 03:36 PM. Reason: added 'not'
Nothing's wrong so ill keep it but, I was trolling on the crower website and i figured out there older cams. The ones they sell on their site currently are 63402-2. These are 63402, anyone think that matters? I asked him where he got them from and he say he's had them for a couple years.(my sense figuered that since he didnt put the -2 that they are older) also should my engine have any thing specific on it? i have a hytech header, 3 in exhaust(the b16 i had in the si was turbod should be picking up a 2 and a halfer soon) apexi tip,stage one clutch and a pwjdm power chamber aka whale *****. they are 3/4 race cams.
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You should plan on upgraded valve springs for any cam upgrade, although some people get away with GS-R springs on ITR cams.
I would ask around about running those Crowers on 10:1. I suspect you don't have enough compression and will be over-cammed. It might be that stage 1 are a better choice.
Also, make sure you have a tuning solution otherwise you won't really see any advantages to those cams!
I would ask around about running those Crowers on 10:1. I suspect you don't have enough compression and will be over-cammed. It might be that stage 1 are a better choice.
Also, make sure you have a tuning solution otherwise you won't really see any advantages to those cams!
He is saying your stock gsr compression might not be able to support the Crower cams. Which in other terms would be over-cammed.
For N/A I prefer to be anywhere from 11:1-12
For N/A I prefer to be anywhere from 11:1-12
Raising compression is worthwhile if you're doing an NA build, but expensive. If you're getting to the point of spending that much money unnecessarily (i.e. when you aren't doing a necessary rebuild). If you go that route you should carefully consider your ultimate goals for your car. For most people turbocharging is probably a better choice.
But if you don't want to mess with rebuilding your engine, cams are still a good choice. A completely stock engine can easily run ITR or stage 1 cams. I have Blox As. I have a feeling they would be better with higher compression, but they are still entertaining
But if you don't want to mess with rebuilding your engine, cams are still a good choice. A completely stock engine can easily run ITR or stage 1 cams. I have Blox As. I have a feeling they would be better with higher compression, but they are still entertaining
I don't know for sure. I would recommend asking or searching the all-motor forum to see what is best to run for 10:1 compression. Those guys know their stuff.
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