Can a car still be started with a dead distributor, like possibly kickstart it? I haven't tryed yet.

 

No distributor = No spark = No motor running.

Bump starting works when you have a dead battery or a shitty starter, wont work witha bad distributor.

 

Ditto that^^^

How do you know the distributor is "dead"? 94

 

try switching out the coil in the dizzy

 

Well the shop said its dead. But i'm not sure of that, how can i find out of its really dead? Switching out the coil is easy?

 

Replacing the coil or ICM is easy but I would test things first, "troubleshoot" tossing parts at a problem is only good if the first part you replace is the defective part, it is a simple way to do things, [if you can afford it].

The very first thing I would do is make sure you have power to the distributor assembly when ign. switch is on AND when cranking to start, that is a black/yellow lead on most Honda/Acura.

You can do a lot of basic testing with a simple 12V test light, [bulb type not LED type] $2.99 or less or a real good one for $10, a multimeter is needed for other basic testing, [like testing a coil], a digital multimeter that will do the job can be had for $20 or less, a good one can be had for under $100.

Both the 12V test light and the multimeter are essential tools if you are going to work on your cars electrical systems yourself, they will pay for themselves in no time, one trip to a shop for electrical problems will cost more, as I am sure you already know.

PS, here is a simple test, access the coil, leave it plugged in, place the 12V test light ground to either the pos.(+) or the neg.(-) terminal of the coil, place the test light probe on the other terminal, [it makes no diff. which way you do it], have someone crank the engine, if the test light "blinks" on and off, the problem is the coil or after the coil, if the test light stays on or off, the problem is before the coil, [ICM, CKP/TDK/CYP sensors, all inside the distributor on many Honda/Acura] or possibly as simple as a connection problem. 94