I've Been doing this for a while and am a Subaru/Kia technician at a dealer. So trust me I've exhausted most options here. I have both civ and integra fsm's and part of the etm's. Anyways, I done a 97 itr swap into a 97 civic cx. Full swap from HMO and they sent a civic ex harness to use. Now there's multiple differences in these harness so upon first start up I had a iat code and code 15 (ign output signal). Fix the iat but still have the 15 though. It will run for about 3 min then cut off. Then you have to let it sit a while before it'll run for another 3 minutes and shut off. Also, upon engine check through when turning key to on pos, sometime cel stays on, sometimes not. So, it see a fault right off, and sometimes not. And always has the cel 15 whem checked. Now, have a good connection from the icm wire from the dizzy to the ecu. But it look from etm that the ign coil output signal is derived from the rpm signal from the dizzy?? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Have the igniter unit tested.

I'm unclear on what input tests you have done and what the results were.

 

I've been thinking about the igniter. Well, the fsm wants to look for voltage by back probing a26(being negative) and a21(icm signal) believe it is. So I go to do it and there's no pin in that ecm connector. Making one believe that it doesn't even have a return path to complete its circuit. So I grabbed a few pins from a jumper harness, put in there to test with. Used a power probe and grounded it just to see if it would start (etm shows it being a ground, non computer controlled) and still no start. But after leaving set for a while will start and run for like 3 minutes. But, my another q is, what exactly is the ign output signal?? The input is the a21 that's yell/grn to the dizzy, and after accounting for all other sensors all that's left is rpm and power. And in the etm the ign coil output is the rpm signal, so is ign output indeed rpm? And if so my tach is working, but has been a hair jumpy. Once again though, I have no a26 (-) to back probe for testing in the harness but the pin is present on the ecu.

 

The jumpy tach signal is another sign of a bad igniter unit. Take it to an auto parts store for testing.

 

Ok, well ill try another or get this one tested and post back the findings

 

Solved! Went through a few igniters (used ones I could pick up) none worked. So i went back to the original one, didn't fire at all. Changed the coil and runs fine now.

 

Glad to hear you solved the problem. But I've never heard of bad coil throwing code 15. Maybe there was a loose wire in the distributor? Did the coil test bad?

 

Well I've never really had to deal with a code 15 until now. But all my dizzy failures in the past have been things like tdc sensor, crank sensors. But from the fsm it does lead to the icm being the problem, no wires were loose though so it was a little puzzling for me as well. I has a obd1 d series coil in it now. Do you know if the output is the same as a b series by chance? If so I'll just leave it in there.

 

z6hatchboy!


I am pretty sure it is. I have been using a coil from a D in my B for over a year now. Same part number too IIRC.

 

What's up buddy! It's been a long time since I've been on here lol. Ok, that's good to know. I looked at them both when I changed em and i thought one had a diff # but i may be mistaken. Whenever I get to a real computer i may look up part numbers. But if you've been running one for sometime now I'm sure it'll be fine