How can you bypass the iacv?

 

Why do you want to bypass it? If you are using hondata, ectune or ect you can disable it in the program.

If you just want to bypass it (I wouldnt) just unplug it.

 

I got this idle issue that I can't solve and I'm tires of this. If I cover the top hole on my tb it idles normal and no fluctuating idle. I know that the top hole goes to the iacv. Car runs like crap if I unplug it and I don't wanna block the top hole with something.

 

Need model and year of car and engine.

Fluctuating idle on a feedback system is always caused by a big air-leak.

With the engine fully warmed-up, is there suction at the BOTTOM hole in the throttle body?

 

Have you tried a different IACV? Also did you take it off and clean it out?
What exactly is your idle doing?

 

had this same problem. found solution on here it's simple and be the first thing as will save you time..

you need to remove ivac, 3 10mm bolts
clamp your hoses so no leakage happens
take off your ivac
now at one end you undo 2 screws (been a long time cant member what end but its fairly straight forwed)
ok so the "lids" off now
there's a sort of valve in there give that a screw down put it back together and should be sweet

 

It's a 92 b17 gsr. I've cleaned them both. My idle revs up and down 700 to1500 evrytime i come to a stop. And there is small amount of air sucking thru the bottom hole

 

Your FITV is stuck open. That hole should exhibit ZERO suction when the engine is fully hot. This will cause fluctuation if it's stuck open far enough

What happens to the idle if you plug the BOTTOM hole?

 

Idle stays the same if I plug the bottom hole. I'll take the fitv apart and clean it again and screw it tight ill let you knw tommorow

 

You have serious problems with your air-delivery system. Specifically, you have a giant air-leak(s) somewhere.

Evidently the leak(s) is(are) bad enough that even the excess air from the FITV is not enough to add to the leak so as to affect the idle.

Do NOT disable your IACV, but find the source(s) of your air-leak(s). You've found one in the form of the FITV. Where are the other(s)? If any...

Large, fluctuating-idle-type leaks come from large sources, such as the intake manifold gasket, brake booster vacuum hose, PCV hose, cold-start-air-booster, EVAP canister hose, that sort of thing. Inspect, disconnect and plug until you find the leak(s).

And hey, one more thing you can try: With the big black intake hose off the throttle body, use the palm of your hand to progressively cover the throttle-body opening until it's completely blocked-off. What do you get? Stall? Low idle? What?

Do you know how to correctly set your base-idle in the first place? Maybe that's all it is. Maybe your idle-screw is just backed-out too far. You'll never know until you check the other stuff.

 

I'll start checking ASAP and keep yall updated

 

what supposed to happen if you block the top hole is it supposed to die i have the same problem have replaced a lot of parts and no fix

 

If you plug the top hole and the engine dies, then the base-idle is set incorrectly. With the top hole plugged and no air-leaks, the idle should drop to 650rpm (for a DA9/DB1).

 

ok now how do i set the base idle

 

http://www.facebook.com/video/video....58405867551675
heres a video of what my car does

 

I don't have a Facebook account, so I can't watch this video. Can you put it on YouTube?

 

Before you can do that you need to fix the air-leak through the FITV.

You also need to confirm that there exists an air-level that the computer is happy with. To do that, you warm up the engine thoroughly, then pull the big black air intake pipe. Next, place the flat of your hand across the throttle body opening, covering at first only a sliver, then sliding your hand so as to cover more and more of the throttle opening until the idle settles down.

If the idle goes immediately from fluctuation to stall, then there's some other issue.

 

I had the same problem and I blocked off the iacv, what I did was take a soda can cut
a small piece and place it between the throttle body and the manifold blocking the hole.
Runs fine once warm idles low when cold. Have done this on many hondas with bouncy
idle. Some race manifolds don't even have a spot for the iacv. My car passed emmisions
this way also, to adjust the idle there is a screw on top of the throttle body.

 

do you have any pictures?

 

No sorry no pics. Just pull the throttle body and cover the bottem hole on the left side with
a small piece of tin and sandwich it between the throttle body and manifold. It works
mine has been like that along time, the idle is rock solid 800rpms no bounce.

 

I blocked off the iacv just like that but my car smelled like it was burning rich and it drove crappy

 

Have you checked for vacume leaks?

 

Yes that's the first thing I checked. If I put my palm over the throttle body the enigne dies off

 

Well if it drives bad I would check the tp sensor and map sensor.

 

Did you try SLIDING your hand over the TB opening A BIT AT A TIME? At some point, with some portion of the TB covered (but not ALL of it!), the idle ought to settle down. And if it does, what percentage of the TB is left uncovered when the idle returns to normal?