Finally got around to posting my results here....

Basic set-up

Sleeved b18a1 block- Darton mids Copper o-rings Je piston 9:1 and eagle rods (type r crank)
Ramhorn
Type r head with mild porting- Gsr cams
3" exhaust- Kteller with 3" apexi world sport 2 muffler
AEBS manifold
750cc injectors- pretty much maxed out
b16 tranny with lsd
S300
Recirculated Dump tube into exhaust

High/low boost switch thru hondata
10psi- 305whp
20psi-411whp/301tq
21psi 35 shot- 464whp/371tq

Im happy with results car made alot of extra power and Tq with only a 35 shot... My only issue now is traction. The shot is from 4k-8krpm. controlled via hondata s300. The car has the boost by gear but using the nitrous i have to set to 15psi but that nets 21psi...using nitrous makes boost jump pretty high, there is no correction for this avaliable in hondata..but its not a big deal. when not using no2 the boost by gear works to what u set-it at

Im really happy with results im sure ITR cams would have netted me these numbers with less boost....but overall really happy car runs great. These injectors are maxed out though. Dont really have any future plans since ill be moving to dallas for work and the car will be staying stored up here in the northeast for the next year.

Any ideas for storing for 12-18 months? i have someone who can start it up here and there im thinking that wouldnt be a good idea since it will never really get to operating tempature unless its idle for a long time.

I plan on taking spark plugs out and putting some marvel mystery oil in holes turning it over a few times to get it to coat cylinder walls(with spark plugs back in) and fill the tank with some stabilizer. then just let it sit...i feel this is the best solution for storage. Any other ideas would be apprciated

 

very nice torque numbers, nitrous always shoots the trq through the roof every time I see it used on a setup!

 

seems to be a solid amount of power out of that turbo. its got to be hard to leave something that fun sitting for a year

 

i know don't remind me... I could take it with me but i wouldnt have use of a garage and my tools. So if anything happened things could get really expensive for me bringing it down to dallas. Plus the risk of it getting stolen.

It is a good amount of power i am happy with the numbers. The Tq hit from the nitrous is pretty fun thats for sure....althought 9 of 10 times it just spins...i need smaller rims and sticky tires

.

 

has anyone else stored there car for a long period of time? any tips or advice you can give besides what i mentioned in the first post? I will be storing it by next wed

 

I have no tips but i'd like to say thats some nice power you have there Well done !

Where exactly do you mean by "North east" ?

 

Northeast as in Boston area... Yea im thinking just going to let it sit....fill the tank full with stablizer to prevent moisture from getting in there make sure the car is really clean, maybe some moth ***** in the garage...Then coating the cylider walls with some marvel mysetery oil. Change oil so its fresh, and thats about it. i think starting it just to let it idle while im away isnt the best idea.

Yea im really happy with the set-up its running great...its a daily driver in the summer. i really dont need anymore power as its all just for fun. And its been alot of fun lol

it was my first car and i just cant sell it and cut my losses.

 

Ok cool, i was thinking Canada for some reason....

If you think about how long some cars are stored for before there first sold i'd imagine you'd be ok engine wise. Saying that it never hurts to be fussy... and on that note wright your self a note and stick it on the engine or somewhere you'll see reminding you to "pull the plugs and disable the injectors and ignition before starting up" That way you can prime the oil systerm again before it fires up properly.

Good luck with the car and your job.

 

Hey man thanks i apprciate it....Hopefully things go smoothly.

Yea i take the ecu out of the car everytime im not using it...I will def prime the oil system before starting after a long store like that. I figured as long as oil fresh and tank is full ill be good....my only concern was cylinder walls since you know when you buy motors they have that rust ring where the pistons just sat there....so i figured the marvel mystery oil would coat the walls therfore preventing rust or moisture from getting on them

 

If you think its a good idea then go for it... I personally have never heard of "marvel mystery oil" so i'm clueless about it.

Just out of interest what engine mounts are you running ? I'm trying to work out what would be best for my setup.

 

Don't feel bad, neither have I.

 

Marvel Mystery Oil® lubricates the entire fuel system-fuel pumps, fuel injectors or carburetors and the top portion of the cylinders. These are areas, that by design, motor oil does not reach. Using Marvel Mystery Oil in your fuel extends the life of these vital components by providing them with lubrication that fuel alone does not provide.

its designed to be used in gas or oil...which i would never use it for that purpose as a additive...i just wanted to use something that would coat the cylinder walls to prevent any type of rust or corrosion to form. i figured a cap full down spark plugs holes put plugs back in crank over a few times and just let it sit....way i see it is its better then not doing it. 12-18 months is along time for motor to just sit. Guess i could just use straight oil but figured this would work better seeing as though its designed to be burned in combustion chamber while oil is not

I am using factory mounts with the urethane inserts... i Does the trick but i would def recommend something better then that...a more solid mount. i do have all urethane bushings throught the whole car....i use Tein Type Flex damper suspension, camber kits, and the EDFC to adjust dampening from inside the car. My next step is traction bars....i will be getting the full-race ones with the extra motor mount option but unfortunatly not for awhile seeing as i wont be using the car at all

 

make sure there is no food or crums anywhere near or in your car....any type of rodent deterent.....mice love wiring and civics aparently make good homes....put it on jackstands and store the rims/tires in a cool dry location to avoid flat spots and weathercracks

 

good advice...Yea two years ago i stored it and they made a nest in my blower motor....they never chewed anythign tho...there were so many acorns near the garage they just took acorns into the car and ate them in there....luckily

Its def going up on jackstands or cylinder blocks. thanks for the input

 

rather than start the engine maybe you can have someone just drop a capfull or 2 of oil down each spark plug hole and just turned it over by hand a few times. maybe do it once a month or so. in the winter it wont be bad because the cold air cannot hold as much moisture, but the summer id be concerned

 

Good point.... I just dont think starting it will be a good idea until im ready to drive it... My only real concern is that the cylinder walls stay lubed. Im sure it will be fine but its just a long time to store a car so it concerns me.Im probably just being to nervous but id rather be safe then sorry later.... i will def prime the oil system before i actually start it up after the long store. .

 

i would do the mystery oil, but you should drain all the gas out of the tank.... if you leave it it will go bad, even with additives

 

I'd love to go for a ride in a car with a power curve like that! When do you plan on storing it?

 

Good numbers I think these are the guys that tune my buddies zakuras car.. As for marvel that's **** has been around for so long and it's pretty good..

 

WD-40 might not be a good lube...but it was designed to fight corrosion.
U could fog that in there. No residue later.
We use Marvel MO as a hydraulic fluid in our old Weaver brake tester..btw..pretty and red in the display tubes.

 

I store my car yearly for about 9 months at a time while im away at college. Ive followed a pretty simple routine that works out fine for me. Give it a good wash, fill up the gas tank, run sta-bil (fuel stabilizer) through it, change the oil, disconnect the battery. And thats it.

 

very nice

 

Sweet sounds good too me...i think im going overboard a little but id rather be safe then sorry....i figured the marvel mystery oil is overkill but its def worth doing it vs not doing it....

I hear to fill up the tank, other say dont...i think if i filled it up i would drain it anyways once i go to start it.. So maybe its not the best to fill up (although this would prevent moisture buildup)

i will be storing it in two days...but wont be moving to dallas till after Xmas. So ill have some time to change the oil and stuff and everything else before i leave

 

Got ahold of another chart..

This is actually higher in power than i originally thought, there was 5 hours of tuning so we had alot of different charts

This shows the following Boost levels:
10psi- 309whp/212tq -solid line
14psi- 340whp/240tq - dotted line
20psi w/35shot - 480whp/385tq solid line w/X's

Gotta love the Tq tho, unfortunatly it comes on so hard it just spins...its almost 200ft/lbs in 500rpm....Too much fun tho i must say!

 

What would my expected gains be with cams swap to ITR/CTR Skunk 2 Tuner 1s? (currently have gsr) from my research ive seen about 30whp. i do have a mild porting done.

Im looking in to purchasing cams withing the next few months and have narrowed it down to the two above mentioned cams. My injectors are maxed out right now with the No2 so plans are too Get cams and ID's 1000 cc Vs. the Rc 750's i have now

My goals are 440-450whp high boost. 525whp with the 35 shot. Seems achivable

I was planning on getting a larger turbo but dont want to sacrifise response too much as it is only a street car(the current 60 trim isnt the most responosive tho). occasional 1/4 mile for fun