I am trying to test and replace my shift solenoid in my 96 Accord EX. But I can't for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the connector cable. This is the diagram I am going off of:




Can someone tell me what I need to push or pull to remove this darn thing?


Thanks

 

There is a tab on the underside of the connector that locks it onto the bracket. You must push this tab inward and slide the connector off the bracket.

 

Going off this photo I'm assuming you're talking about the little nub in the middle. I have been trying to push that in with everything I have lying around to no avail. Is there a tip/trick/technique to get it to budge?

http://cobratransmission.com/images/...03%20Shaft.JPG

 

That doesn't look correct for a Honda.
As phootbag stated, there is a tab you push, you should be able to feel it with your finger. Push it and then pull the connector down. I'll look for a better shot of the connection...



Look at the grey connection on the left, look at the bottom, see the small tab.


Here is a similar connector, note the push tab.

 

I have circled the tab I am attempting push down with a pointed object:




In the second photo I'm not sure where you are referring to. If it is the area I circled, I have already removed the connector from the metal bracket, I am just having an issue with unplugging the connector from the other plug.

 

There should be a big tab on the female connector on the harness side.

Note the long tab on the left, push down on it, that will lift the tab up(like a see-saw) and clear the nub. Sometimes the connectors themselves just get stuck together, I would place the connectors back on the metal tab to help you disconnect the plugs from each other.

 

I will emphasize that those connectors do indeed become stuck.
You should be able to press the tab down, pull the connector while jiggling it. Make sure to keep your arms, *** and elbows clear of any pointy objects. This is usually one of those items when you break it free you have a moment of elation just as you smash your funny bone.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I was trying to push the nub on the male connector instead of pushing down on that tab from the female connector.

That last photo really helped Mike. Now I just gotta figure out how to use this multimeter

 

oh another question, do I need to get underneath the car to remove the second solenoid or can it be done from the top of the engine?

 

You will be able to access the side mounted solenoids from the top as well.

 

Appreciate all your help Mike. Just got done battling the hoses surrounding that bottom solenoid. Could barely reach the top 3 nuts and even then they are still on. Any advice on getting better/easier access to them?

 

They are pretty easy to access.


You can see the top pair in this picture... I dunno if the cooling fan is in your way, or is the transmission cooler line in your way?
Off the top of my head I cannot recall if one can remove the fan directly in front of the transmission.

One thing that really opens up the engine bay on that side, is the removal of the battery and the battery tray. Once thats out of the way you can damn near sit in the engine bay. That would let you gain access from the side, and you can see where everything is. Just make sure you have your radio codes(if stock).

 

Finally removed the damn solenoid, the photo you provided is a bit different than my engine configuration. Had to get underneath and remove the plastic panels. Anyway, while I was down there I noticed that there was a leak right underneath the transmission. I assume it's transmission fluid but I'm not 100% sure. I have provided photos of the leak, don't know if it has been there or if it's something recent.

Do you guys think I have more than just a solenoid problem? When I last drove the car to park it in the garage it ran fine minus the fact that it wouldnt shift out of first gear.

 

That photo I just snagged from the internets, I saw the B1 VTEC cover and ASSumed it was a CD chassis, looks like it to me.

As for the oil leak, that doesn't look like ATF, that looks like engine oil. And from the junk on the oil pan, I'm going to go with the rear main seal may be on its way out. You can check the driveplate for oil by removing he center beam, five bolts. And then removing the inspection cover for the TC. IIRC there re two 10mm headed bolts that hold it on. If there's oil on the engine side of the driveplate then the rear main seal of the engine may be in need of service.

If its dry under the cover, inspect the oil sensor and filter locate on the firewall side of the engine block for leaks. Also the valve/cam cover may leak and dribble all the way down the back side.