My 92 Accord Wagon has had a cold start misfire that is killing me. When I hop in it in the morning to drive to work it will usually start but sounds like a subaru lol. It misses on 2 cylinders and than start to clear up. Sometimes it misses on 3 cylinders and will not start.

Now a little background. About a year ago my Accord started developing a decent rod knock after 230,000 miles. I've owned it since about 210,000. Done all the maintenance, oil change blah blah blah....

So I started searching for an H22 setup, and found a wrecked 97 Prelude SH that I ended up buying for parts. It drove ok, never had a misfire cold, and my Accord pre-swap never had a misfire cold.

Now when I did the swap I changed out all the maintenance stuff, and resealed the motor. The only things that I changed were the ecu, to a P13 (pretty sure its a jdm p13), the distributor, and the fuel injectors.

Now I called the place I got the dizzy from and told them the story, and the sent me another one just in case I received a faulty one to begin with. So I swapped that out this morning........ same result. I can feel on my header that only cyl #1 is firing 2,3,4 are all cold. So I pull plugs, 2,3,4 all wet with fuel and 1 is dry/normal.

So then I thought I'd try swapping in my old Accord ecu, same result. Now short of having 3 leaky injectors causing it to flood. What else could there be. I know the wiring is intact. I guess I could pluck down some more coin for a set of injectors but I'm at an end with this car, and will prob just go pick up an early WRX wagon.

Any ideas? Anyone know of a cheap set of obd-1 Prelude injectors?

 

I realized after I posted that I will prob just go up to work and grab my spark tester and injector noid lights. Than go to work figuring this out. I still have a feeling that my injectors are bleeding off, causing those three cylinders to flood out when it sits.

 

This could be an issue with you needing a resistor box or something of the sort. When you got an obd-1 car it's best to go with an obd-1 motor and parts unless you're going to just use the shortblock and source the OBD1 IM and EX parts elsewhere.

 

My wagon is an EX, and I did use the obd-2 intake, but switched to obd-1 injectors. It runs fine was it clears up (usually within 15-20 seconds). I have no driveability issues, no cel.

I will see if I can get another resistor box and give that a shot, I was kinda eyeing it earlier.

 

lol ya resistor box not transistor. I don't know much about it since I stayed all obd1 but GhostAccord does.

Just make sure everything you're using is obd1. If not, you may have to do a wiring conversion. I just swapped over my egr valve and picked up an obd1 p13 distributor. I'm not sure if the connectors for the tps, map, and others stuff from the SH will even plug in if they're obd2.

Oh, and I don't think the japanese (N00 OR N01) computer utilizes evap so I think my car was running worse when I was using that. Could have been just me thinking so tho.

 

Yeah all the sensors plug in, even for the secondary intake runners, I had to move the map sensor wiring because I wanted to use the sensor on the TB but other than that is was p&p.

Like I said, it runs fine.Vtec works great, everything. Just at startup it misses for 15-20 seconds then goes away. I'm sure its flooding. If it wasn't 1 degree out, I'd move my other cars out of the garage and get to work testing fuel psi leakdown.

 

I have the same issue with my F22B1 in my Beater. It would start up and idle rough then as second goes by it'll eventually clear up and idle normal at cold.