Okay so first off I have a 99 dc on blox one piece coilovers and stock ls rims. I am looking to get a new set of tires but have no idea what size and brand to get. I like the dunlops I had on my previous 240 which was slammed but a dc is a whole other beast. The reason I am getting new tires is because the current size I have 205 55 15 rub on hard bumps because of my drop (they tuck a little). I would like to eliminate this prob. I believe that ls rims are 15-6.5 not sure though. But i dont know if 50 series or 45 would look right on the car but I know I want to go smaller sidewall and maybe even smaller width if possible. Any info would be great thanks

 

I have no idea what model Integra you have, so I assumed you have a GSR.

The proper tire size for that car is 195/55/15. You could go with a 205/50/15, and still be within a safe percentage of the factory tire diameter. As-is, those tires are slightly larger than the factory specifications.

 

Sorry about the lack of info I have a dc4 i wish i had a gsr. right now i am running 205/55/15. I was looking to see how low of a profile could be good and not look stupid and also keep good handling and stop from rubbing so much. I am starting to sway more toward the size you mentioned i dont want to low of a profile anything lower then 45 is no good in my book.

 

The 205/50/15's should help clear up the rubbing issues. You could go with a 195/50/15, but its a little bit outside of the realm of safe tire sizing.

 

The falken 912 are a decent all-season tire,relatively cheap and offer common honda sizing..

 

Not sure why you would need an all-season in El Paso. I wouldn't run anything but a summer tire in the southern portion of the country.

For all seasons I can say Falken does a good job, nice quiet tires typically. Haven't ran them in a few years. I had the Ziex last I believe. I thoroughly enjoyed my all season Nitto Neogens, but once I bought my Yokohama S. Drives I'm never going back to an all season. The grip in the snow is about the same, and the grip in the rain is phenomenal on the S. Drives.

As long as I'm living in the southeast/west I'll never use anything but a good summer tire.

 

I have a DC2-R with a 2" drop via Skunk2 lowering springs on stock shocks with 205/50/15's on the stock rims and I've only had just a tad of tire rub on the front fenders only in a very hard turn once or twice but nothing to do damage. If I buy full adjustable suspension in the future, 2" is the lowest I'll ever go. Just remember I'm speaking from using stock ITR wheels and 205/50/15 tires.

 

my dc is lowered 1.3 and i have 205/50/15 ecsta asx and they are pretty decent for there price.

 

I am guessing mine teggy is dropped around 3 inches i dont know exactly because i have full body coilovers but i am really look more toward the 205 50 or 205 45. I just need a good all season tire i maybe in elpaso but belive it or not it snows and rains here because of the elevation. i think right now it is around 30 outside.

 

Snow and rain does not justify all season tires. Unless you've got ice on the roads for more than 2 weeks out of the year I would not justify using all seasons.

I can tell you first hand that an all season and a summer tire perform about the same on ice.

Buying an all season for even two weeks of snow or ice doesn't make sense.

 

Primary benefit of an all season compound in your climate is better durability; most summer tires will average about 20K to 25K miles of life where most all season tires will get 35K to 40K depending on the model.

 

Yeah thats another reason why I would rather buy an all season tire. I have tested the theory my self once by putting a allseason on one tire in the rear and a performance one the other in my 240 the all season lasted longer and it was slightly used and the performance tire was brand new its bad enough i have to deal with camber wear which i choose too because i dont like camber kit upper control arms that most companies make due to the pretty crappy ball joints they use for them and the rubbing/hitting you get between the upper control arm and the coils.

 

You do realize the front of the car is much heavier, does all the accelerating, and does all the braking. It's going to wear faster no matter what you do.

That's why you rotate them.

And unless you're super-dumped, it wasn't camber killing your tires. It was toe, which you should have gotten sorted out once you lowered the car.

The only reason you should have camber kits is to ADD camber for better handling in autocross.