B18C Benson Sleeved Block, Pauter Rods, Cp 9.1 Pistons.
B16A2 Head, Full port, Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams, Fully Built Valvetrain.

Dry Compression:
Cyl 1: 165
Cyl 2: 162
Cyl 3: 170
Cyl 4: 163

2nd Round:
Dry Compression:
Cyl 1: 158
Cyl 2: 165
Cyl 3: 167
Cyl 4: 165


Added a cap full of oil to each cylinder.
Wet Compression:
Cyl 1: 180
Cyl 2: 180
Cyl 3: 185
Cyl 4: 172


I thought maybe my head gasket was blown because the car is overheating when idling and the top and bottom radiator hoses are very swollen within a few minutes.

Replaced the radiator and the cap with no change.

Do you think my thermostat could be stuck closed?
Should I proceed with the leak-down test and see what kind of numbers I pull then?

Side note: I bought this motor from a local guy. He made 690whp with it. I have it on a tune from hondata that was for my b16a2 just N/A until I get my downpipe to put the turbo on. Car doesn't idle (stalls if I don't keep slight pressure on the throttle), and sounds like it's missing pretty bad.

I haven't set the mechanical timing because I can't get it to idle.

Thanks!

 

3 cylinders reading low. The wet test is better but #4 is suspect. First guess:rings. Do a leakdown test. I'm guessing the engine was not broken in properly. Just a guess.

 

The engine was very cold when I did the test. Didn't think to warm it up a bit first.
I don't think any of them are too low for 9.1 pistons are they?
Everyone I've seen test with low compression pistons are around 170-180.

 

Going to do the leak down in the morning.

 

I'm not seeing a problem.

 

I agree, those numbers are fine. When the car overheats, is the upper hose getting hot or staying cold? Does the car have heat, and if so, does it blow hot air when the car is hot?

 

Buy a kit that tests for exhaust gases in the coolant.

 

I dont see a problem with the compression test neither. What size injectors? You cant just use some random map to run you motor. If you suspect the thermostat is stuck then you can pull it out and put it in a pan and boil it in some hot water on your stove and see if it opens and close.

 

Just being a little paranoid.

 

Upper hose gets very hot and swollen. Heat doesn't seem to be working.
Gets slightly warm.

 

They are just stock injectors right now. I had a jdm b16a in the car previously and it was tuned on s300. I put this motor in and am just running that tune right now.

 

You should get the correct basemap for the engine you are trying to start. I take it you don't have a wideband hooked up? You should also test the thermostat or just buy and new one because they are dirt cheap.

 

Yeah, I was going to take it down to get a base tune for it, but with it overheating, I canceled it.

 

I am not seeing an issue here, however, you are supposed to do the test on a warm engine.


Do a leakdown test.

 

another thing. if your hoses are getting swollen you should probly get those replaced while your at it.

 

Replaced the thermostat. Still nothing changed. Fan isn't coming on at all. Temp starts to climb in about 5 minutes of idling rpm's.


Just hooked the fan up straight to the battery. Fan comes on. Fan doesn't come on otherwise. I just got the temp up to slightly over half way and it still isn't coming on.

I unplugged the coolant temp switch from the thermostat housing and jumped the wires with a paperclip. I hear the relay in the fuse box click, but the fan doesn't come on.

Should the fan come on when I jump that?

 

Got it figured out. For anyone in the future, it ended up being the 15amp fuse UNDER THE HOOD. I thought just the relay was under the hood. :doh:

Happened to check the fuses today again, that fuse looked good, but on close inspection, it was barely burned. Fan works now. But ECT cel light is stuck on and won't go off.