B18C Benson Sleeved Block, Pauter Rods, Cp 9.1 Pistons.
B16A2 Head, Full port, Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams, Fully Built Valvetrain.

Dry Compression:
Cyl 1: 165
Cyl 2: 162
Cyl 3: 170
Cyl 4: 163

2nd Round:
Dry Compression:
Cyl 1: 158
Cyl 2: 165
Cyl 3: 167
Cyl 4: 165


Added a cap full of oil to each cylinder.
Wet Compression:
Cyl 1: 180
Cyl 2: 180
Cyl 3: 185
Cyl 4: 172


I thought maybe my head gasket was blown because the car is overheating when idling and the top and bottom radiator hoses are very swollen within a few minutes.

Replaced the radiator and the cap with no change.

Do you think my thermostat could be stuck closed?
Should I proceed with the leak-down test and see what kind of numbers I pull then?

Side note: I bought this motor from a local guy. He made 690whp with it. I have it on a tune from hondata that was for my b16a2 just N/A until I get my downpipe to put the turbo on. Car doesn't idle (stalls if I don't keep slight pressure on the throttle), and sounds like it's missing pretty bad.

I haven't set the mechanical timing because I can't get it to idle.

Thanks!

 

You asked if you should perform a leakdown, so I'm going to assume you have a leakdown tester handy. That said, warm the engine up and quickly remove the plugs and radiator cap, perform leakdown starting with the center 2 cylinders and keep an eye on the radiator filler neck for constant bubbles which would suggest the headgasket seal has been compromised.

Are your cooling fans operating? Have you felt the lower hose after the cooling fan cycles so ensure the thermostat is open?

Hope this gets you on the right track, GL!

 

I have a Flex-a-lite fan and it hasn't kicked on since I swapped this motor in. I know it works. I dunno.

Yeah, I have a leak down tester. Going to do that tomorrow morning I think.

Do those compression numbers seem low?

 

With the cap on, both hoses get VERY stiff, hot, and swollen. Then the temperature climbs very fast.
With the cap off, it just starts getting hot and bubbling out of the radiator.

 

The compression test was done with the motor cold. I should have probably warmed it up a bit.

 

one thing.. if the tune isn't set for the right injectors its gonna be all screwed.

your fan isn't kicking on at all? how quick is it getting that hot?

 

The injectors are the same ones from my b16 tune. Just stock injectors.

Gets hot in like 5-8 minutes of just holding it around 2k rpm's. It's like the water isn't circulating, just pressure is building.
I'm so confused.

 

If the fan isn't kicking on - get that fixed. Probably the fan temp switch.

 

Before that, I would apply power and ground to the fan to see if the motors ok.

 

the the thermostat doesnt open the fan wont kick on also so try removing the tstat and see where that takes you. If fans stil dont kick on see if you have power at your fan temp switch and go from there diagnosing bad switch or something else

 

Just did this.

Fan comes on. Fan doesn't come on otherwise.
I just got the temp up to slightly over half way and it still isn't coming on.
I unplugged the coolant temp switch from the thermostat housing and jumped the wires with a paperclip. I hear the relay in the fuse box click, but the fan doesn't come on.

It should shouldn't it?

 

Man this is driving me nuts.

 

Just loaded a base p72 map. Disabled knock sensor.
Still won't idle on it's own.

Overriding the fan temperature to come on at 150F, fan still not coming on.
I hear the relay click, but the fan just refuses to come on.

 

the fan fuse might be blown or a bad wire, test for power at the fan when you jump the connector and also check fuse

 

Fuses are good. Relay is good.
Even hooked up my stock fan, still nothing. I'm so lost.

 

then there is a break in the wiring somewhere

 

Jump the thermo switch on the thermostat housing.

 

Why dont you run the Fan to a relay switch itself. A "manuel" switch for it. Its not hard, i had one in my CRX because it wouldnt come on otherwise.

 

you can wire the ecu aux output to run fan control, the ecu will turn on a relay which will then power the fan.

 

Did that already. Nothing.

 

Want it to work like it should.

 

replace thermostat...car will not overheat without fan...i drove without a fan for months and never overheated

 

Dude.

Multi-meter.

Test at the fan. No 12V, test at the next plug, no 12V, test at the next plug. Continue back until you have 12V.

My guess, bad relay. Only thing we can do is suggest issues, you need to follow up with testing and confirming.

 

The car will overheat without a fan, if you get in traffic for any length of time or let the car idle it will overheat, also if makign back to back pulls it will overheat. Dont give advice like this.

PLUS alot of these hondas dont have good airflow to the radiators due to larger FMIC's so airflow isnt always enough depending on the setup

 

Did that. Didn't make a difference.