1997 Accord SE 2.2L L4 MFI

The problems:
*Misfire in cylinders 1, 2, and 4 (gotten from codes p0301,2,4 and p1300[multiple cylinder misfire], no p0300 code)

*Engine has a slight shake while idle and while releasing the acceleration peddle (therefore slowing down)

*While driving, as soon as passing the 3000 RPM mark, the needle fluctuates between 3000 and 6000 RPMs. (Although I never seem to need to go beyond 3K RPMs, as I barely noticed today when I purposely accelerated to make the needle to go past this mark.)

*While accelerating, the engine waits a while before shifting gears, and when it does the shift is hard (this could be that I have a dirty fuel filter, I will be replacing that tomorrow and I will update the situation.)

What I have done: (READ THIS FIRST: There was a loose tube that lead to nowhere that was causing a vacuum leak. Before I sealed it, while the engine was idle, pulling wires of cylinders 1 & 4 would result in no change to the engine, while pulling 2 & 3 would cause the engine to bog horribly. However, if I disconnected the tube that came from the EGR valve, the engine would return to normal with no shake, immediately. Pulling each wire resulted in equal bog of the engine. After plugging the vacuum leak, the engine acted the same whether I had the EGR valve connected or disconnected (pulling each plug resulted in an equal bog of the engine.)

*Replaced with all plugs and wires with new ones.

*Replaced rotor and cap with different used ones (they look almost new to me)

*Switched the outside injectors with the inside injectors (This was before the vacuum leak; this did not change any results [ie pulling wires 1 & 4 no change while EGR is connected)

*Switched actual distributor with a different used one. No difference to engine and behavior (Done before sealed vacuum leak)

*Did a vacuum test. Results where: 1: 170, 2: 165, 3: 160, 4: 175 (either that or backwards, from 4 to 1. When I did this, I didn't disconnect the fuel pump fuse. I don't know if this will change the result or not. This was also done before closing the vacuum leak.)

Please help me don't have the money to take the car to a mechanic. Any advice would be awesome! I've been trying to fix this car for several months now.

 

Does this happen when the engine is both cold and warm=normal op temp?

 

Well, on cold start, the idle is usually around 12/1300 RPMs. There is a very slight tremble, but not the type of tremble that makes you worry, the normal tremble a car has if it has any. It is only after driving that the idle goes down below 1000 to about 700 RPMs. When it is around this area, the tremble is increased. The car warms up quickly though while driving so I couldn't tell you if the RPM needle fluctuates after 3K RPMs when the car is cold. Basically, after shifting into D and pushing the accelerator, the car begins to warm. (Not to worry about heating though the temp needle has always stayed slightly below half, and never passed that point [I hope it's not broken! But I don't think it is since I open the hood after every drive and the heat seems normal])

P.S. I also noticed that there is a gas smell after the car starts, even a couple seconds right after it is started.

BTW, I like your signature

 

Kind of, again kind of sounds like an egr passage issue. I don't like nor suggest ever running a car hard when cold but for testing, before the car warms up (closed loop kicks in) run it and see of the issue is there.

PS-Thanks. I recently lost my 22 year old son in a car accident, he was a passenger in the car. Just one of many songs we enjoyed listening to.

 

After I changed the oil filter today, I did a test run on the car. To answer your questions about the car running cold: basically, yes, all symptoms persist even when the car is run cold. The only real difference is that the RPM needle only fluctuates when cold after 4.5K RPMs instead of after 3K. Also of note: The engine doesn't shake after startup, but only after pushing the accelerator (throttle), even when the engine is warm. Also of note: When pulling wire number four while the engine is shaking, their is a slight bog, but the engine seems to come back. After pulling the tube to the EGR, however, pulling number four would result in a continuous bog.

After replacing the filter, the shifting seems to be getting better. However, I have only driven it for a test drive, and will give conclusive evidence the next time I drive I more than a couple miles (probably Monday or Sunday). Thanks for the help! Oh, almost forgot: I noticed while I was doing the test drive ONCE when the car was idle, the RPM needle went from about 650 to almost dead and immediately shot back up to 650.

And, I am sorry to here about your lose. Luckily for me, I have yet to lose close family members. It must be tough, hang in there.

 

Oops, forgot to mention one thing. I disconnected the radio fuse to reset the CEL. So far, (I have only driven the car on the test drive.) the light has not come back on. Have to drive more to make sure it stays off.

 

I'm going to bet it comes back. Have the egr ports ever been cleaned?

 

Well, very limitedly. I was using a friends brake cleaner, so I could not use that much. I cleaned them as much as possible with the brake cleaner and paper towels. I'm going to clean them completely as soon as I find an old toothbrush laying around. Also, I will try to get someone to push the accelerator so I can check to see if the little "pump" on the EGR goes up and down or remains stationary, and report.


“Be strong and courageous. Do not be afraid or terrified because of them, for the LORD your God goes with you; He will never leave you nor forsake you.”

"I will not leave you comfortless: I will come to you."

"let those who seek the Lord be happy.
Depend on the Lord and his strength;
always go to him for help.
He will keep his agreement forever;
He will keep his promises always."

 

Well, it seems all problems still persist. The gear changes SEAM to have gotten better, but they are still rough. I do think the shaking is so to the EGR valve, so tomorrow I am going to drive around without the tube connected, and see if the engine stops shaking. Good news: the engine light did NOT come on. But I only drove around 20 miles today, so we'll have to see if it stays off. Lastly, I think that the RPM fluctuation is not based on how many RPMs the engine is at, but rather I think it is based on how fast the car is going. I think it starts fluctuating after the car's speed passes about 75 mph.

 

I have a 91 Accord that seems to have similar issues. Except that it will start up and idle a little rough then when the car is warm the RPM's start jumping all over the place and the car seems to lose power. It will barely accelerate. What are you guys thoughts on this?

 

For your problem, I am almost 90% positive that the issue is with the distributor rotor and cap. I had this exact problem before, and replacing these fixed the problem completely. Try this first. If you want to get a used rotor and cap, you can go to autozone, and they will show you how a new should look like, and you can compare using those.

Update: The CEL has not come on yet, but I have a feeling it will come back on. Nothing new, going to a mechanic Friday. Also, I think the bank one sensor two oxygen sensor might be bad.