ok well some you might know, i finally completed my swap about 2 days ago, and all i have been doing is test driving, making sure everything works and no major faults.

onto the info
car-1991 ef hatch
motor-b16a2
ecu-obd1 b16a pr3
converted to obd1 so my engine harness is actually a true obd1 harness now.

what its doing-

while normal driving motor stumbles around 3k. this is in any gear. whether it be at WOT or just barely cruising.

i reset the ecu by doing the following-
pulling the ecu fuse, waiting 15mins. got in, cranked it and let it idle for 10 mins and shut if off, then turned the ignition on.

drove it to oriellys to return parts, and its still in limp mode.

flicked my ecu CEL toggle switch and i throwing the following codes
4 -CKP sensor
14-IACV
17-VSS
41-primary o2 heater

**brand new distributor, plugs, etc. wonder if i got the cps and ckp wires mixed up in my conversion on the ecu side?**

*can i clean out the IACV and see if it works? i have a JDM b16a intake manifold so what IACV will work?**

**VSS IS NOT HOOKED UP, SO I KNOW WHY ITS THROWING THAT CODE**

AND o2 sensor is not wired up because i will be buying one soon as soon as a paycheck comes in.


someone said the ecu could be faulty, but more than likely the codes are making it go into limp mode.

 

Since you have so many codes, you probably have wiring messed up.
Checking the wiring is where you need to start before you replace any parts and cleaning out the IACV isn't going to fix wiring issues.

You will never get vtec without the VSS hooked up so hook it up! You can swap out the VSS for the cable drive part if that is what is holding you back.

 

everything is wired correctly to my knowledge. hell it took me a month to get the wiring done, and i finalized it yesterday.

could the IACV wires be switched? all i did was extend those

vtec is wired correctly.
knock is wired correctly. and my injectors and the two wires from the dizzy.

those were the only sensors i had to wire in.

 

Well then something doesn't make sense since you say
"everything is wired correctly to my knowledge" and " wonder if i got the cps and ckp wires mixed up in my conversion on the ecu side"
If your wiring is right then your distributor needs to be replaced again.

"vtec is wired correctly."
Regardless to the vtec wires being wired up correctly, the ECU checks for a few things before it sends a signal to actually activate the vtec solenoid. One check is speed and since your VSS isn't hooked up you will get a CEL and no vtec.

O2 code is going to put you in open loop and you will be running rich. The ECU is running default maps and not trimming fuel or spark maps according to what information the sensors are sending. This may be what is causing your hick-up at 3k.

 

the dizzy is brand new and i just checked the wiring and it is correct on the ecu side.
will the o2 alone cause limp mode

 

What distributor are you using and how did you wire it up?

 

its an OE replacement that i got from autozone.

and i wired it up accordingly using http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/techni...-diagrams.html
]
and a link from H-T on the correct wiring for the dizzy plugs

 

just read that the CKP is a sensor located by the crank. no where in the obd1 convesion does it say to wire that in

 

The crankshaft position sensor is in the dizzy on obd1

 

Actually its in the distributor. The CKF sensor is used on OBD2 engines and is by the crank. What link from HT did you use because there are like a hundred diagrams floating around and they aren't all the same.

 

fix the vss problem and make sure you do not have wires switched for the ckp. both of those will stop vtec, not allow it to run right and put it in limp mode.

 

this is similar to the one i used but it was posted on here somewhere
http://ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/obd1-2dizzywiring.jpg

 

If all your other codes were cleared, the primary O2 code alone would still cause open loop.

 

thats what i just got through reading! ugh. i dont wanna pay that much for one, and i certainly dont want the universal one :/

 

Where are you looking and what price?

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/obd0-obd1-distributor-wiring-1349052/

and i mostly go to oriellys for their cheaper prices and its like 100 something

*i used goforbroke post*

 

Check Amazon for Denso, they're basically the factory replacement and around $65 depending on application.

 

Never had a problem with a universal Bosch

 

thats not bad. but i dont have enough time to wait for shipping

 

What model sensor are you looking up to get the $100 price

 

i cant remember what the guy told me but it was bosch or an oe replacement or something like that.

 

I mean what model/year Honda, what city are you in?

 

oh sorry.
i ordered it for a 99 civic si.
a 4 wire o2 is what i need
what other models could i use that is cheaper?

 

Pretty much any 4 wire primary sensor should be fine, the only real differences is length in wiring. How much wiring do you need? I was asking your city because I was wondering if they had autozones in your area because they carry Denso.

 

i live in biloxi, MS
and i need a good bit of wiring attached but im sure my jumper harness will make it just fine