90 accord woes
finally got my cb7 on the road today. was bleeding the coolant this morning and the temp gauge rpm gauge and gas gauge were working fine. then when i took it for a spin an hour later i all the sudden have the following problems..
fuel gauge, tach gauge ,temp gauge.,turn signals dont work. the dash is fully illuminated however. power windows werent working but after stopping and then coming back to her they magically work again though eveything else is still the same
checked fuses all seem to be ok.
no idea where to start i hate electrical problems. what did i do gurus
anyone got a diagram for the fuse box inside the cabin
fuel gauge, tach gauge ,temp gauge.,turn signals dont work. the dash is fully illuminated however. power windows werent working but after stopping and then coming back to her they magically work again though eveything else is still the same
checked fuses all seem to be ok.
no idea where to start i hate electrical problems. what did i do gurus
anyone got a diagram for the fuse box inside the cabin
From the description, It sounds as if your electrical gremlin lives in your ground connection. On an older car a loose or corroded ground is not unheard of. It can play hell with all electrical systems or just a few depending on the power draw at a particular moment. Start at the battery and find every ground. Disconnect, clean to bare metal and reattach. If you return loop is weak, only so much current can round trip; but easy to chase, since it is multiple systems and intermittent.
What is the common denominator? Ground wire is the first place to check.
What is the common denominator? Ground wire is the first place to check.
Something to think about on the wire tuck. I know it is a PIA, but current will always seek the shortest possible route to ground. A short will not always blow a fuse. Sometimes it just creates a new channel back to the battery, leaving not enough current for components downstream to operate; or draw enough power to leave others starved (minimum threshold.)
If a wire got nicked, or exposed wire is touching a metal, it may simply be short cutting anything down stream, vibration can make it intermittent. Anything involved in the wire tuck is suspect. After ground wire checks, look at those wires/loom. It is almost certainly involved.
If a wire got nicked, or exposed wire is touching a metal, it may simply be short cutting anything down stream, vibration can make it intermittent. Anything involved in the wire tuck is suspect. After ground wire checks, look at those wires/loom. It is almost certainly involved.
Something to think about on the wire tuck. I know it is a PIA, but current will always seek the shortest possible route to ground. A short will not always blow a fuse. Sometimes it just creates a new channel back to the battery, leaving not enough current for components downstream to operate; or draw enough power to leave others starved (minimum threshold.)
If a wire got nicked, or exposed wire is touching a metal, it may simply be short cutting anything down stream, vibration can make it intermittent. Anything involved in the wire tuck is suspect. After ground wire checks, look at those wires/loom. It is almost certainly involved.
If a wire got nicked, or exposed wire is touching a metal, it may simply be short cutting anything down stream, vibration can make it intermittent. Anything involved in the wire tuck is suspect. After ground wire checks, look at those wires/loom. It is almost certainly involved.
brake pedal is spongy too. guessing thats the bmc since i did no brake work at all other then pushing the piston back in after roh conversion
Last edited by bdmlilburn; Nov 5, 2011 at 08:24 PM.
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