I've had this knocking sound for probably 1+ years and 13,000 miles now. Over that time i believe it's gotten a little worse. The head was rebuilt a few months ago, which didn't change anything with the knocking sound. The valves are adjusted correctly. The video below is for a vacuum leak I was trying to show someone, but you can definitely hear the knocking I'm talking about. Just disregard everything I say in the video, because that problem has been fixed.

What do you think?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4T7BVZv9DPc

 

How does the noise change from cold start to operating temp? have you tried disabling your injectors 1 at a time to isolate which cylinder its on?

 

When the engine is cold, there is NO knocking sound. I can't hear the sound when driving... not because my car is loud, but because there is a load on the engine. When I'm cruising or putting a decent load on the engine, I hear nothing.

The knocking happens when:
1) The engine is warm, not cold
2) There is no load on the engine
3) Also occurs about 80% of the time, not 100%.

I have not tried disabling the injectors, I'll do that once it stops raining.

 

I've watched every last video on youtube on engine knocking sounds. Some said it turned out to be their valve clearance, others said timing belt tension, or rod bearings. I don't know if this helps, but here's another video on my (what I presume to be) Timing Belt Auto Tensioner failure, which happened when I had a shop rebuild my head last April.

Please watch the whole video; it gets nasty after 34sec
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGffyaZQ4bo

 

The noise of that H22 sounded similar to mine. Mine sounded more like a helicopter though. Turned out to be my timing was a bit on the loose side which causes to create that loud flapping noise that sounded like a helicopter. I properly tensioned my t-belt and it got quite.

 

Both videos sound very similar, I would check the timing belt.

You can kinda hear the valves under the "helicopter" sound. I think you need a valve clearance adjustment anyways. Might as well do it while you're in there.

 

I tried disconnecting one spark plug wire at a time. Made no difference with the deisel sound.

 

i very much doubt its a spun bearing mate, your engine would only last a few seconds/minuites.

just out of interest what does it do if you put the clutch peddle down?

 

Yea, most people tell me the bearing would never have lasted this long. Especially not through near redline RPMs like mine does. What do you mean it would only last a few minutes? Few minutes before throwing a rod or stalling? I once had a 4runner with 4 spun bearings and it lasted 3 months before I decided to replace it. But that's a completely different vehicle, and i was using Lucas with 50 weight oil.

The clutch works fine. I can put it to the floor with no problem. I just have a slight whistle with the throwout bearing though.

 

The last time I changed my oil, there were some very small metal particles stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug. Didn't seem too major. And there has never been a large amount of metal stuck to it any other time either.

I was thinking it could be the LMAs, but i couldn't find anything online about h22s having LMA issues. I also didn't think they'd cause a sound this loud though. I do know about the change from cylinder style to spring style LMAs. And the last thing I read about them mentioned that Honda no longer carries the cylinder style LMAs, but only the spring ones. Which lead me to believe that they'd fit perfectly in the h22 without shimming. I could be wrong of course. I'll press down on the LMAs with my finger to see if they stick.

If a cam gear was off by a tooth, would that be enough for a piston to hit a valve? The manual tensioner conversion kit should arrive by UPS today, so I'll be swapping that auto tensioner out soon.

 

Oh, and one more thing. The deisel sound is there when the motor is cold too, not just when warm. It's just not as easy to hear when idling cold.

 

I'm having some similar issues, but it's been a while since i've visited car sites, can you refresh me what LMA stands for.. having a brain fart

 

Lost Motion Assembly

 

Were you able to use the 1999+ LMAs on the 1997? I think I'm having the same noise now too. Some folks from PO.com and PP.com suggest to readjust the valves again, but I'm leaning toward the LMAs at this point. It's just that the LMAs for the 1997 models cost 3x more than the newer model ones.

1997 SH
14820-PCB-305 LOST MOTION ASSY $23.10

1999+ (?)
14820-PCB-003 MOTION ASSY., LOST $8.05

These were taken directly off from majestic auto parts. Let me know. Thanks!

Btw, not trying to jack your thread but here's how mine sounds..maybe you can help me pinpoint it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6txuqjrnSE

 

i think the idling drop simply becos u r spraying the thing toward the IACV intake port(on the bottom of the IACV).

 

One tooth should not be a problem for valve clearance. It will mess with your power band / drivability however.

 

mine sounds just like yours i got a new tb job and it still happened but it didn't affect the performance one bit and now my auto tensioner went out I'm thinking of going with the kaiezen speed tensioner anyone have it? i want some reviews plz

 

I would pay a little for attention to this. I am surprised no one else pointed this out. ANY metal flakes are a bad thing. I guarantee that if you drain your oil and pull off the oil pan you might see alot more flakes. spend $20 to buy a new oil pan gasket and $20 for new oil and spend a day to check it out. Could save your motor, but honda motors are cheaper to replace than rebuild, imo. It only work rebuilding if you are spending the extra money to get it BUILT right.

--TJ

 

Thats the inside of my oilpan and I did not see ANY flakes in my drained oil or on the magnetic plug. To be sure, you gotta pull the pan and see for yourself.