I still don't know whats wrong with my car!
I have a 92 accord ex and can't seem to figure out the problem. I am on the verge of giving up at this point.
I got new battery, starter, spark plugs n wire, and distributor w/ cap n rotor but my car still won't start.
I see oil on all four of the spark plug threads. Could it be just a bad valve cover gasket or could be a blown head gasket?
I don't know if a bad valve cover gasket would cause my car to not start though. Also when I installed the distributor it sounded like my car was going to start but it kept cranking n not turning over.
I got new battery, starter, spark plugs n wire, and distributor w/ cap n rotor but my car still won't start.
I see oil on all four of the spark plug threads. Could it be just a bad valve cover gasket or could be a blown head gasket?
I don't know if a bad valve cover gasket would cause my car to not start though. Also when I installed the distributor it sounded like my car was going to start but it kept cranking n not turning over.
Le't start from the top. You seem to be chasing an problem in the electrical system. You have replaced most the common components. Questions...
Is the Distributor in correctly. It is possible to install the shaft 180 degrees out of alignment. I have done it myself. Pull the spark plugs (no compression) and turn the engine by hand. A wrench on the power steering pulley or under the driver's wheel well you can get to the crank pulley bolt. There is a hole there in the cover. Turn the engine until the timing marks are at the center of the three timing marks. (Not Top Dead Center.) Now pull the dist cap. Where is the rotor pointing? It should be to the post that is under the one stamped with an "A". That is cylinder 1. The plug wires also should be in this order 1,3,4,2. Easy to get the plug wires wrong. Double check your work.
If you still have a no start, then run down the fuel system. Start at the top. Is there gas in the tank? (not being rude. It happens. Don't assume.) Next is the fuel pump running? When you turn on the key you should hear it spinning (whirring noise) for 2-3 seconds. If you can't hear it from the driver's seat, open the gas cap and put your ear close while someone turns the key. Don't crank the engine. Just power up the dash.
If fuel pump is running, is it providing enough pressure? Go to the fuel filter. On the firewall passenger side. This procedure is not factory spec. Perform at your own risk. Do it with the engine cold! Fire=Bad. Loosen the output nut called a banjo bolt. Did gas squirt everywhere when loosened a little? It should.
Next follow that line to the banjo bolt on the fuel rail. Loosen. (Again, engine cold please. No smoking.) Pressure? '92 did not use a Schrader valve, so no way to pressure gauge the rail. You have to judge if there is enough pressure; or measure how much fuel is output over time. If you have pressure, you should be good.
Lastly, pull all the plugs again. When the gas pedal is pressed, do you have gas in the cylinder? You should smell and/or hear the injectors squirting fuel.
By now, you should have found at least one fail. Don't assume. Run all checks after you fix/confirm each point. Now you have chased all the electrical and fuel issues. The last should be timing. But first, pull your air filter. When was it last replaced? Is it black? Let the engine breathe.
Good luck and let us know what you find. Ask questions if this does not make sense or you need to find something.
Is the Distributor in correctly. It is possible to install the shaft 180 degrees out of alignment. I have done it myself. Pull the spark plugs (no compression) and turn the engine by hand. A wrench on the power steering pulley or under the driver's wheel well you can get to the crank pulley bolt. There is a hole there in the cover. Turn the engine until the timing marks are at the center of the three timing marks. (Not Top Dead Center.) Now pull the dist cap. Where is the rotor pointing? It should be to the post that is under the one stamped with an "A". That is cylinder 1. The plug wires also should be in this order 1,3,4,2. Easy to get the plug wires wrong. Double check your work.
If you still have a no start, then run down the fuel system. Start at the top. Is there gas in the tank? (not being rude. It happens. Don't assume.) Next is the fuel pump running? When you turn on the key you should hear it spinning (whirring noise) for 2-3 seconds. If you can't hear it from the driver's seat, open the gas cap and put your ear close while someone turns the key. Don't crank the engine. Just power up the dash.
If fuel pump is running, is it providing enough pressure? Go to the fuel filter. On the firewall passenger side. This procedure is not factory spec. Perform at your own risk. Do it with the engine cold! Fire=Bad. Loosen the output nut called a banjo bolt. Did gas squirt everywhere when loosened a little? It should.
Next follow that line to the banjo bolt on the fuel rail. Loosen. (Again, engine cold please. No smoking.) Pressure? '92 did not use a Schrader valve, so no way to pressure gauge the rail. You have to judge if there is enough pressure; or measure how much fuel is output over time. If you have pressure, you should be good.
Lastly, pull all the plugs again. When the gas pedal is pressed, do you have gas in the cylinder? You should smell and/or hear the injectors squirting fuel.
By now, you should have found at least one fail. Don't assume. Run all checks after you fix/confirm each point. Now you have chased all the electrical and fuel issues. The last should be timing. But first, pull your air filter. When was it last replaced? Is it black? Let the engine breathe.
Good luck and let us know what you find. Ask questions if this does not make sense or you need to find something.
Le't start from the top. You seem to be chasing an problem in the electrical system. You have replaced most the common components. Questions...
Is the Distributor in correctly. It is possible to install the shaft 180 degrees out of alignment. I have done it myself. Pull the spark plugs (no compression) and turn the engine by hand. A wrench on the power steering pulley or under the driver's wheel well you can get to the crank pulley bolt. There is a hole there in the cover. Turn the engine until the timing marks are at the center of the three timing marks. (Not Top Dead Center.) Now pull the dist cap. Where is the rotor pointing? It should be to the post that is under the one stamped with an "A". That is cylinder 1. The plug wires also should be in this order 1,3,4,2. Easy to get the plug wires wrong. Double check your work.
If you still have a no start, then run down the fuel system. Start at the top. Is there gas in the tank? (not being rude. It happens. Don't assume.) Next is the fuel pump running? When you turn on the key you should hear it spinning (whirring noise) for 2-3 seconds. If you can't hear it from the driver's seat, open the gas cap and put your ear close while someone turns the key. Don't crank the engine. Just power up the dash.
If fuel pump is running, is it providing enough pressure? Go to the fuel filter. On the firewall passenger side. This procedure is not factory spec. Perform at your own risk. Do it with the engine cold! Fire=Bad. Loosen the output nut called a banjo bolt. Did gas squirt everywhere when loosened a little? It should.
Next follow that line to the banjo bolt on the fuel rail. Loosen. (Again, engine cold please. No smoking.) Pressure? '92 did not use a Schrader valve, so no way to pressure gauge the rail. You have to judge if there is enough pressure; or measure how much fuel is output over time. If you have pressure, you should be good.
Lastly, pull all the plugs again. When the gas pedal is pressed, do you have gas in the cylinder? You should smell and/or hear the injectors squirting fuel.
By now, you should have found at least one fail. Don't assume. Run all checks after you fix/confirm each point. Now you have chased all the electrical and fuel issues. The last should be timing. But first, pull your air filter. When was it last replaced? Is it black? Let the engine breathe.
Good luck and let us know what you find. Ask questions if this does not make sense or you need to find something.
Is the Distributor in correctly. It is possible to install the shaft 180 degrees out of alignment. I have done it myself. Pull the spark plugs (no compression) and turn the engine by hand. A wrench on the power steering pulley or under the driver's wheel well you can get to the crank pulley bolt. There is a hole there in the cover. Turn the engine until the timing marks are at the center of the three timing marks. (Not Top Dead Center.) Now pull the dist cap. Where is the rotor pointing? It should be to the post that is under the one stamped with an "A". That is cylinder 1. The plug wires also should be in this order 1,3,4,2. Easy to get the plug wires wrong. Double check your work.
If you still have a no start, then run down the fuel system. Start at the top. Is there gas in the tank? (not being rude. It happens. Don't assume.) Next is the fuel pump running? When you turn on the key you should hear it spinning (whirring noise) for 2-3 seconds. If you can't hear it from the driver's seat, open the gas cap and put your ear close while someone turns the key. Don't crank the engine. Just power up the dash.
If fuel pump is running, is it providing enough pressure? Go to the fuel filter. On the firewall passenger side. This procedure is not factory spec. Perform at your own risk. Do it with the engine cold! Fire=Bad. Loosen the output nut called a banjo bolt. Did gas squirt everywhere when loosened a little? It should.
Next follow that line to the banjo bolt on the fuel rail. Loosen. (Again, engine cold please. No smoking.) Pressure? '92 did not use a Schrader valve, so no way to pressure gauge the rail. You have to judge if there is enough pressure; or measure how much fuel is output over time. If you have pressure, you should be good.
Lastly, pull all the plugs again. When the gas pedal is pressed, do you have gas in the cylinder? You should smell and/or hear the injectors squirting fuel.
By now, you should have found at least one fail. Don't assume. Run all checks after you fix/confirm each point. Now you have chased all the electrical and fuel issues. The last should be timing. But first, pull your air filter. When was it last replaced? Is it black? Let the engine breathe.
Good luck and let us know what you find. Ask questions if this does not make sense or you need to find something.
I thought the dizzy fits only one way for a Honda, but I will give it a look. I can hear the fuel pump run when I put the key to ON and I've tried pressing the gas pedal and indeed smelled gas. I will test the dizzy when I get a chance. It's raining this whole week.
Any ideas on the spark plug thread covered in oil?
Any ideas on the spark plug thread covered in oil?
If its on top of the spark plugs as well then it would be spark plug rings in the valve cover gasket. And if its only on the threads and bottom of the spark plugs then the valve seals are probably going out.
I forgot one more important step. Actually check for spark at the spark plug. Even with all new components in the Distributor, I have seen the coil spring get bent on installation of the cap. If the spring is bent it will not make contact with the cap and you will not have spark to any of the plugs even though everything is new and 'working'.
A $5 test light at Harbor Freight or some of the auto parts houses can be put in line on your plug wires and the light will flash with every pulse. That lets you know you have juice all the way to the chamber. Of course there is the old fashion way of grounding the plug wire to the engine with a screwdriver. Just make sure it is grounded and you are not leaning on the car. An energized plug with no ground can burn up the ignitor in your brand new distributor. They ain't cheap.
A $5 test light at Harbor Freight or some of the auto parts houses can be put in line on your plug wires and the light will flash with every pulse. That lets you know you have juice all the way to the chamber. Of course there is the old fashion way of grounding the plug wire to the engine with a screwdriver. Just make sure it is grounded and you are not leaning on the car. An energized plug with no ground can burn up the ignitor in your brand new distributor. They ain't cheap.
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Gold DA9
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May 27, 2009 06:13 PM



