Having trouble starting my obd1 gsr in a 00 coupe shell I just acquired. obd1-obd2b ECU ebay jumper & homemade dizzy jumper, SI engine harness, stock p72. New starter and battery.

-The fuses looked okay; & I redid some grounds [Thermo, Trans, VC]
-I swapped the main relay, but Idk how reliable it was [it just "looked" better]
-Would Viper be a starting culprit? I got the shell with it so Idk how it works.
-Maybe I soldered the wrong dizzy wires? But I made sure I didnt
-My roommate did put a big Buccaneer car magnet on my ecu, isnt that bad?


When the key is in the 'ON' position there is no noise and only 'SRS' and 'Ebrake' lights [which wont go off when I undo the ebrake]. BUT randomly I will attempt to start it and all the lights will turn on, fuel pump will prime, and will lead to 1 starter click. After that it goes back to noiseless SRS/ebrake state.


I did some voltmeter main relay connector tests:

Ign off
I get 12.4 battery voltage w/ black on terminal 2, red on term 1.
Ign on
3.3v with black on 2, red on 5
3.5v with black on 2, red on 1

The fuel pump primes when I jump 1 to 7 & 5 to 7.
Havent tried the A7 test yet didnt know if it was relevant for an ek.


I just bought a main relay for a different car, same engine, about a year ago. Similar issues if I can remember correctly.. thats why I'm honing in on my main relay. But not ruling out fuel pump, ecu, maybe ign switch?

 

Why? OMFG. What do YOU think? Find another working ECU to test.

 

Is the thermostat ground clean and tight?

By the way, this is the pin out for the 00 Civic main relay connector.



Could be.

This test should yield 0V.

These are unconventional tests and not very informative, but I think both also should yield 0V.

This is good.

What test is this?

 

I know I was pissed at the time cause I knew it was going to come back to haunt me. But it wasn't in the car does that matter?

Test ecu in the works...

 

A magnet wont do anything, an ecu isnt a floppy disc or a hard drive.

ecu is a pcb and little microchips and some memory, which you have to flash to change the data on it.
I doubt any magnet you own could do anything.

 

Yes

Wires are the same. My relay has different numbers though [which is what I used for the tests]


Irrelevant I guess...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/no-power-fuel-pump-help-2977783/

 

Convert the terminal numbers you used for jumping to those shown in the diagram I posted.

Unplugging ECU connectors A and B followed by grounding ECU connector terminal A7 (and A8) is a relevant test for an OBD1 ECU.

 

Didnt do the A7 test yet but the voltmeter has different results for the others:

OFF
BL-2, RED-1 0v
ON
BL-2, RED-1 0v
BL-2, RED-5 10.7v

1&5 to 7 no longer primes the fuel pump.

What does it all mean

Oh and the check engine & oil lights made an appearance for the tests.

 

Check whether fuse 44 or 13 is blown.

What is your rationale for doing those voltage tests? They don't yield any useful information. Do the terminal numbers correspond to those in the diagram I posted?

 

They don't appear blown. But I'm switching them out anyway.

As for the tests.. I'm just desperate, I saw it on another thread with main relay problems. How can it prime and click(starter) one moment and not another. Another thing I just noticed was the oil light came on very dim when I turned it to 'ON'. And earlier after the prime & starter click the srs & ebrake lights stayed on while the check engine & oil were very dim. Is the dimming a common thing?


A7 EDIT:
Terminal 2 to ground has continuity.
When I ground A7 I hear the fuel pump noise.
Last part has to do with Terminal 8, which confuses me considering the image above.

 

The terminal numbers don't match up. Thankfully its pretty straight forward to match wire colors

 

Can't help you unless you provide point-by-point answers to questions.

 

This indicates the main relay is working and that the fuses are good. It also tells you that jumping the wires from fuse 44 or 13 to the fuel pump wire in the main relay plug should make the fuel pump run.

Most important, this test tells you to focus your troubleshooting on power and ground for the ECU and on the ECU itself.

 

This is not the correct test. You need to jump 5-4 and 7-4, if you have an 00 Civic main relay.

 

what is battery voltage and do you have the ignition wire hooked up to the starter? There should be 2 wires at the starter

 

Yup you are right 5 & 7 to 4 made the fuel pump work.

 

This is somewhat good news! I'm tracking down a helpful being with an ecu. But meanwhile should I trace the grounds coming out of the ecu? Or what would be the best way to go about this, more multimeter?

 

You need a multimeter.

Unplug ECU connectors A and B. Test for continuity to body at A26, B2, A23, and A24 in the ECU connector. With the key in ON(II), measure voltage to body ground at A25 and B1 in the ECU connector.

 

Everything checked out good except the B1 in the ON position. It gave me a .6v reading, but also jumped to .3 and 0 occasionally

 

That's the problem. Triple check to make sure.

What voltage did you measure at A25?

 

Oops! Didn't have my main relay plugged in for the tests, cheers to triple checking. My apologies.

I have continuity in all 4!

Each one gave me 12v.


Where does this lead me? Does this mean my ECU is bad?

 

Yep, try swapping in a known good ECU.

 

Still nothing with a known good ecu... this is pissing me off it has to be viper in the way

 

You electrical tests, if done correctly, should have eliminated a Viper problem.

 

Anyone with ideas? If not I'm on the edge of paying someone to come fix it