New to EFs so I just want to be sure I'm covering everything. I searched and this info seems right, but I'm not 100% on it yet.

1988 CRX HF
- Currently has stock D15B6
- Currently has 1988 CRX Si cable transmission

Proposed setup.
- 1998 D16Y8
- Mate to current transmission (1988 CRX Si cable transmission)
- HF engine harness
- RyWire distributor harness (use OBD2 distributor)
- RyWire alternator harness (use OBD2 alternator)
- RyWire VTEC sub-harness
- RyWire ECU jumper
- Chipped P28
- HF driver engine mount
- 1988 HF pressure plate
- 1988 HF flywheel
- 1988 Si clutch disk

I'm mostly concerned about the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. I already have an '88 Si tranny in the car.

I had nowhere to work on it when my HF tranny blew two months ago so I had a shop do it. IIRC they used the stock parts to get the tranny on there. I know he said the stock clutch looked okay for now and so he just used that. Also no mention on my bill for other parts (fluid was mentioned so I think they'd mention other parts).

Any help is appreciated!

 

im pretty sure the flywheels will swap out, i know me and my friend installed a eg flywheel onto a D15B2. worked fine, no jury rigging or anything. so im sure the 88 flywheel can be used on the Y8. im sure you know the 88 clutchs and trannys are different than the others.

 

It's no different than in any other car - always match the components to the transmission. The flywheel surfaces are the only things (width wise) that are different - even then you can use the older stuff with the newer flywheel...

 

More than just the '88 transmission are different... You should start looking at part numbers "singlecamsaint"...

 

I was always told match clutch pp and flywheel to trans

 

what are you out to bash somebody for helping? and who cares he could fix the problem really by just swapping away from an 88 model tranny...the OP wanted a simple answer not a half a page bashing about how "you should always use the components that match the car". sometimes you just have to make what you have work. he wanted to know if the flywheel swaps. the answer is yes. end of thread...

 

What are you babbling about guy? For one, the OP is a woman. Two, I was just letting you and everyone else know that '88 isn't the only year that the clutch splines are different. Also, clearly you shouldn't match the parts to the vehicle if things have been changed - I.e. the transmission - like the OP clearly stated in her first post. So cool your jets kid, read things, and stop giving out false information. Also, read what you quoted and look at your response - who is filling the thread with useless garbage?

 

What else do you mean is different?
I think this is right?

My friend had a local store transfer a clutch disc for me yesterday but I'm not sure if I'm basically still needing to get the flywheel and pressure plate or if what I have is good.

Sucks because there's a relatively new clutch kit on the Y8, but I'm pretty sure none of that can be used. Everything on the HF (w/Si trans) is original to the HF (171k miles).
I want to know what clutch , flywheel and pressure plate to use with a D16Y8 mated to an '88 Si tranny. I know the '88 Si tranny is a little wonky, but it was easier to swap into my '88 HF at the time iirc, compared to other years of Si transmissions.
I knew '88 clutch splines were different (21 count iirc). Wasn't aware or didn't recall other years being different. Like I said, EFs are new to me.

Thanks so far for the help. Still a little unsure. I hope my car assembles correctly when this swap happens because this is my daily driver.

 

I've only ever dealt with OBD2A btw.

From more searches I'm getting that the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate should all match the transmission. So I might need to get another flywheel and pressure plate, not just the clutch disc.

I'm willing to possibly upgrade too. Depends on the work compared with the payoff though. Product Review: Upgrading 1988 CRX Si Clutch (The guy who posted this info actually used all these parts btw.)

So I've been doing more searches for the "standard" set up...

Source
Source
* - TOB info was incorrect, it was corrected in the thread by transzex.

Then I find this. I think I'm getting even more confused.
Now this thread has me worried about the intake manifold,, and this one has me thinking about O2 sensor wiring

I am very tempted to write a DIY once I'm done with this. Seems the info is out there, but it's spotted around and I'm guessing either some is wrong or that there are multiple ways to go about doing it.

 

What i can say for sure is that you "need" the clutch disk for the 88 d series, as it has either one more, or one less extra tooth on the sprocket from the main shaft from the transmission.


Not 100% on this part, but the pressure plate and flywheel shouldn't matter, as long as it's a D series. However that being said, by using 1988 spec parts, you know for sure they will fit with that tranny

 

thats what i was trying to say...guess i worded it all wrong

 

Just Use 88 clutch parts. Keep it simple. The Y8 clutch wont work with that Trans. Info about accord and prelude parts is just confusing.

Not to worry about the manifold. Use Y8 Throttle cable, some vacuum may need to be added or deleted. Your installer will be able to figure this out. The IAT is different though. If you have the Y8 IAT and plug use it. In the Picture below I relocated the new IAT in installed it in the intake tube as would OEM. Just to the left of the vavle cover hose you can barely see it. The plug is barbed and if you drill a small enough hole for it to fit in then it will stay and seal just fine. You can reuse your injectors and resistor box. or use the Y8 and delete the resistor. Your choice.

This is an 88 CRX I swapped with a Z6 but very similar.



For a clean swap you can relocate thermo wires to thermo housing, or use older thermo in the Y8 block. Ive done this many times. Just remove the Y8 freeze plug and install older thermo.. the end.

This is a pic of older thermo plug (left) and newer (right). Back in the day when I didn't have spare plugs like this I just swapped over the older thermo.



Just above the oil filter and to the left is the freeze plug I mentioned. I personally like to intregrate my wire harnesses and use the new plug at the thermo housing but it is up to you. Either one works.

This is actually a Z6 block but the Y's have it in the same general area.



This picture is of a swap I did in an 88 getting a B16. It is my personal preference to rebuild my wire harness integrating the newer plugs from the older ones. I just like the grey color plugs vs the older white/yellowish ones.

Here the four wire was added into the harness. You can have this done or just run it out along the original harness. Because there is a lot of extending and relocating involved with this swap it can get a little messy but it will all work either way. Depending on where your O2 bung is will determine where you add the 4 wires. On the CRX is was installed in front, here on this B16 it was in the back.

 

It's a basic drop in swap... There isn't much extra to wire in - but all of that should be taken care of for you with the oodles of money you blew on those harnesses from www.rywire.com - everything clears no problem... You were already on the right track before you searched about it. Also, there are write-ups on this already as its been done a thousand times. If you want to write and updated one, then go for it.

You have to realize that there is a lot of BS on vehicle forums, and it comes from people who have no clue what they are doing or talking about. The other factor being people get misinformed, try it, and post wrong information about stuff not working because they used the wrong parts to begin with.

Post some specific questions and I will give you specific answers.

 

I don't have a Y8 throttle cable anymore. It's in my '98 Civic, which this engine was pulled from. Can't the HF throttle cable work?

I understand that my HF being MPFI helps me.

 

The Rywire OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harnesses was only $189 and the alternator adapter was $35. I don't like ghetto and this saves time and gives us peace of mind.

I searched extensively and could not find a write-up on putting a Y8 into an HF. Could you link them here since my searches have been unsuccessful?

I'm not a noob. I know there's a lot of BS. That's why I'm trying to put it all together here. I found a little bit of information, but some of it seems to contradict other posts. I know I have to take a lot of advice on here with a grain of salt.

Basically, I want to know if my parts list is right. if it's not, could you tell me what I'm missing?

I was also not sure on the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate I needed (I have repeated this several times in this thread alone). Leaning toward the upgrade of the '87 Prelude 2.0Si/'88 Accord LXi, etc. now.

 

I understand this is a Z6 but the logic is the same... there are minute differences that I will explain.

http://www.angelfire.com/d20/hcivic8...d16z6swap.html

You can use whatever throttle cable you would like - you may have to make a custom bracket for it though.

The IAT sensor will need to be relocated to the intake piping because there isn't a spot on the Y8 intake manifold.

Personally, if it was my daily driver that HAD to be going the same day/weekend - why play with mix and matching something as important as the clutch.
As was stated many times over - match everything to your transmission and there won't be ANY problems. There is no need to upgrade for a stock or even lightly modified/boosted vehicle.
The bolt patterns are the same for '88-00 D series flywheels. Like I said before, the only difference is the surface area to accommodate different OD clutch discs.

Since I have no experience with Rywire harnesses and build all of my own, I can't say for certain what will or won't need to be done fr that aspect. Normally the fan switch wires have to be extended and the plug end changes over. This or you can pull the plug in the block as previously stated. Personally I would go with the newer style.

The links you posted have a lot of filler and no real information...

The Y8 manifold works without issue - the posters concerns were some sensor differences...
The IACV from the Manual Y8 will work just fine and I already explained the IAT. As long as you don't have a 3 wire IACV that is...

You can use your engine mount that bolts to the block and EF rubber mount but you have to do some fabrication to get it to work. It's easier to just trim the timing cover and use the factory mount - upper and lower.

What has you concerned about wiring in a 4-wire O2 Sensor? I have posted this info quite a few times...

 

Here I searched it up for you...

The factory wiring is as follows:

White = O2 Signal (D14)
Green/White = O2 Ground (D22 or similar logic ground)
Orange/Black = O2 Heater (A6)
Yellow/Black = O2 Power (A25 or switched +12v source)


Aftermarket wiring is as follows:

White = O2 Signal (D14)
Green = O2 Ground (D22 or similar logic ground)
Black = O2 Heater (A6)
Black = O2 Power (A25 or switched +12v source)

Obviously it matters - if you get an O2 heater code switch the two black wires around - simple as that.

 

That's fine. It's not yours.

I have a 23-year-old clutch built for a 60hp car. I already know it needs to be replaced (we noticed it should be at the time that the transmission was being replaced, but I just needed the car back at the time and did not want to wait for a clutch since I knew I'd be doing this swap soon).
Do you keep referencing posts you've made in other threads because the stuff you keep bringing up about "posted this before", it's not posted in this thread and you didn't provide links. I don't know you and have no reason to think that searching your post history would show me all the answers.

Checked the RyWire stuff and it turns out the O2 sensor wiring is built in (VTEC pressure, VTEC solenoid and O2 sensor).

Thanks all, for all the information. Definitely a big help.

 

^^^ He was saying that we've answered all of your questions already in this thread.

We told you to just use 88 clutch parts, not to REUSE the clutch. Like NEVER said you can use the HF cable just make your own cable stay.



Best of luck.

 

I wasn't saying anyone said to necessarily reuse the old clutch. I'm saying none of the clutch parts have ever been replaced, and this is a perfect time to replace parts I know need to be replaced anyway, so why not upgrade?

Either way, it looks like I'm not upgrading yet since the parts are all VDP and I'm looking to start this tomorrow or the next day if possible.

The whole thing about it being my daily driver so don't upgrade the clutch, etc. (even though another poster I linked to is using all those same parts), worse comes to worst, I borrow a car and drive my roommate to work for a couple days.

So basically I had the right parts listed in the first post the entire time.

 

Easiest would be to use your OBD0 - OBD1 harness at the ECU and run a chipped P28...Have the guy burning your chip delete the sensors you don't have wiring for (knock sensor, 2ndary o2 sensor)

Use the 88 clutch, flywheel, PP, etc.

Why not just use your HF intake manifold? That will give you the least headache.

 

Parts list is in the first post. Still hasn't changed since I made this thread.

I already said I'm using a chipped P28 (got the new chip yesterday) and a jumper harness. You seemed to know I had the jumper harness since you mentioned it. Why would I buy a jumper harness to just throw it away? What ECU did you think I wanted to use?

Clutch/flywheel/pressure plate has been gone over. It's known I basically have two options. Either stay with '88 parts (to match the transmission), or do the upgrade conversion shown in the link I posted.

Why would I want to use my peashooter HF manifold besides that it would be marginally easier to install than the Y8 manifold? What is the performance gain of using the quarter sized HF manifold? (Oh, not to mention the HF seems to have some sort of thus unresolved TPS issue, which is either the TPS, which tests good, one of two wires that I need to test later today, or the ECU at this point.)

 

i used a Y8 mainfold, it wasnt hard at all, just did what buddy said put the IAT in the intake pipe. i had to use a 92-95 throttle body, the 88-91 one wont fit at least the one i have here wont. then the iacv in you got the manifold from a manual car, it should have a spot for it. the automatic y8 manifold does not, but the places are there so it can be drilled out. i know this cause im using a automatic y8 manifold now, and i just remote mounted a dpfi iacv, no code idles just fine.

 

Awesome.

This engine is from my 1998 Civic EX coupe (manual transmission), which I swapped to a B18C1. So I have everything from the engine except the harness (I do have the hacked 2000 GSR harness for plugs though). I've had this engine in the original car since about 78,000 miles and it has 156,000 miles on it now.

I still have the throttle body from the Y8.

The HF is MPFI, which I understand is easier to work with.

 

yeah im using a pm-6 with all this. it works fine. one problem i did had was with the FITV. i just made a block off plate for it because it had a vacuum leak there