my 5 speed transmission acts like a automatic
I been having problems with this thing. If I I have it in 1st-5th when I start the car up it creeps forward and if I start it in reverse it creeps backwards. All the with out my foot on the gas. And if I tweek the like like you would do to spin the rotar on the distributor it will also jerk. And if I start it in neutral it wont go into gear, I have to play around with it for a minute before it will even budge. When the car is off all gears go in smooth. And another thing the car will stall out after it warms up for like 30 mins.
clutch slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and lastly it could be the throw out bearing. Somehow the clutch is getting friction to the flywheel causing it to do that when started. The throw out bearing could be stuck in a position too. If its failing, you will have all the problems you are describing. Sorry to bring bad news but I've had the throw out bearing go out in my vehicles. Also might as well replace the clutch and have the flywheel surfaced or replaced while you're at it.
clutch slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and lastly it could be the throw out bearing. Somehow the clutch is getting friction to the flywheel causing it to do that when started. The throw out bearing could be stuck in a position too. If its failing, you will have all the problems you are describing. Sorry to bring bad news but I've had the throw out bearing go out in my vehicles. Also might as well replace the clutch and have the flywheel surfaced or replaced while you're at it.
I just replaced the transmission I thought that the clutch went out but I jut had no fluid in the transmission. So I probably bled the system wrong.
Last edited by Mugenboij; Oct 30, 2011 at 07:54 AM.
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If you're not leaking fluid, bleed the clutch, if you are, either rebuild or replace the master/slave and bleed the clutch.
Also, bleeding a clutch isn't the same as bleeding brakes.
how is bleeding a clutch not like the brakes? Its the same process, but the best way is to pressure bleed it with a BG machine... but bleeding it is a start
How much do you think a shop would charge to have it done by machine?.....I did it my self and it took me like a hour going back and forth. One big major pain
have you adjusted the clutch pedal push rod??????
not once in this thread is adjustment even mentioned....
There's a 12mm nut on the back side of the rod, against the clutch pedal bracket. It sounds like you don't have enough pedal travel to cleanly get the clutch to engage and go into gear when the engine is spinning.
In that case....u essentially have to adjust the rod to simulate being longer, so you'd screw the rod OUT/AWAY for the pedal, snug the lock nut, and see if it gets any better.
PERSONALLY, i use a 12mm line wrench on the nut, and a pair of pliers to rotate the pushrod. And you don't have to gorilla torque it to lock it...just a quick snug (at least until you get the adjustment right)
not once in this thread is adjustment even mentioned....
There's a 12mm nut on the back side of the rod, against the clutch pedal bracket. It sounds like you don't have enough pedal travel to cleanly get the clutch to engage and go into gear when the engine is spinning.
In that case....u essentially have to adjust the rod to simulate being longer, so you'd screw the rod OUT/AWAY for the pedal, snug the lock nut, and see if it gets any better.
PERSONALLY, i use a 12mm line wrench on the nut, and a pair of pliers to rotate the pushrod. And you don't have to gorilla torque it to lock it...just a quick snug (at least until you get the adjustment right)
have you adjusted the clutch pedal push rod??????
not once in this thread is adjustment even mentioned....
Thanks ill try that out
There's a 12mm nut on the back side of the rod, against the clutch pedal bracket. It sounds like you don't have enough pedal travel to cleanly get the clutch to engage and go into gear when the engine is spinning.
In that case....u essentially have to adjust the rod to simulate being longer, so you'd screw the rod OUT/AWAY for the pedal, snug the lock nut, and see if it gets any better.
PERSONALLY, i use a 12mm line wrench on the nut, and a pair of pliers to rotate the pushrod. And you don't have to gorilla torque it to lock it...just a quick snug (at least until you get the adjustment right)
not once in this thread is adjustment even mentioned....
Thanks ill try that out
There's a 12mm nut on the back side of the rod, against the clutch pedal bracket. It sounds like you don't have enough pedal travel to cleanly get the clutch to engage and go into gear when the engine is spinning.
In that case....u essentially have to adjust the rod to simulate being longer, so you'd screw the rod OUT/AWAY for the pedal, snug the lock nut, and see if it gets any better.
PERSONALLY, i use a 12mm line wrench on the nut, and a pair of pliers to rotate the pushrod. And you don't have to gorilla torque it to lock it...just a quick snug (at least until you get the adjustment right)
Just fixed the same problem on my friends prelude, its the clutch master cylinder. when we bleed it, it was black haha. Just replace the clutch master cylinder
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