Hey whats up guys I got this accord with a crank no start problem. Couple buddies at Honda told me that its usually the ignition switch that goes bad and will let the car crank but not run. I checked it with a test light and a volt better and gets voltage in the ign and run positions. So I need some further tips on this problem.. and secondly I pulled the dizzy to check the coil and ignition module inside but when I opened it up I can't get the rotor off. There is no set screw on the shaft not even a place where the screw goes so I was wondering if any of u guys have run into a dizzy Luke this and how to get the rotor off without breaking it.. any tips or advice is appreciated thanks

 

There's nothing unique about the pressed on rotor you have I have the same thing on my 91 accord. I don't recall ever having a problem getting it off, it's just held in place by a metal strip spring type thing in back. Just use a little more muscle and if perchance that you do break it, it's an inexpensive item, less than $10 at NAPA.

 

thats normal on an old dizzy man up on it, even use a tool as needed. and like the guy before said if you do break it, its cheap.

 

On any of the PGM-FI 90-97 Accords that I have worked on there is a Philips screw in the rotor shaft. There is a corresponding opening in the distributors dust cover that you will need to line the screw up with. You will have to crank the engine over (or manually rotate the crank) until you get the screw lined up with the opening. If it is the type with the screw I wouldn't suggest trying to pull it off or you will break something and that something might not be as cheap as a rotor button.

 

Key on/position II, are you getting 12v to the BLK/YEL wire of the dist? -trying to rule out the key switch.

I'm assuming you are not getting spark at the plugs.

 

If your warning lights are coming on in the "run" position before trying to start the engine the ignition switch is okay. That rotor does just pull (pry) off but it can be very stubborn. If the warning lights are okay the top suspect is the igniter in the distributor.

The ignition is one area I recommend only OEM parts in Hondas. My son put a NAPA rotor in his Integra and it broke, tearing up the dust cover in the distributor and leaving him stranded beside the freeway. When my daughter's igniter failed I bought a NAPA replacement for $100 and it lasted two years, then resulted in a $300 towing bill. I paid $200 for a Honda igniter and it lasted until her husband ran the car out of oil several years later. In retrospect a wrecking yard part might have been better than the NAPA part.

By the way, if you replace the igniter the two screws that hold it to the side of the distributor are very stubborn. Take care not to strip the heads. Penetrant on them now is not a bad idea, whether you have to go that route or not.