I've tried to look this up but all I found was how to modify your dizzy.

My question is, if im running a d16a6 block and a z6 head, couldnt I just use a d16z6 distributor on the z6 head?

 

Always use the distributor to match the cylinder head... Is this a serious question? Why couldn't you use the distributor that came OEM from the manufacture on that specific cylinder head...

You do understand you can't mix OBD-0 and OBD-1/2 ECUs and distributors though? Your ECU must match the distributor for OBD.

 

^^ Distributor depends on the ECU you are going to use for your mini-me swap.
The old way was to use the A6 distributor with the A6 ECU and wire up an RPM switch of sorts to activate vtec.
Then came along ECU swaps and OBD1 conversion harnesses which totally elimiated the use of an A6 ECU and distributor.

Your setup ideally consists of A6 block, Z6 head, Z6 distributor, Z6 ECU (P28), and the rest of the OBD1 conversion.

 

I was going to get the A'PEX VAFC II to activate the vtec and to control the fuel. Im actually really lost at the moment. If I did use the a6 distributor, would I have to shave the bottom half of the thing that sticks out from the "snail".

 

you're A6 dizzy wont even bolt up to the z6 head. the bolt pattern is different for one. Just use the z6 dizzy and go obd1, use the conversion harness for the obd0-obd1 distributor. Then use the Vtec controller, or go complete obd1 with a p28, and 4wire o2 sensor. Good Luck.

 

K... thanks for admitting you are lost!
That's actually really helpful!

So what ECU are you going with?

You can (not recommended) stick with OBD0 ECU for the D16A6.
This will require something like the APEXI unit to activate vtec.
No internal mods are needed to the distributor.
The 'ears' on the distributor need to be modified so you can bolt it to the Z6 head.

Suggested route would be to convert to OBD1.
use the D16Z6 distributor.
Use the D16Z6 ECU.

The advantage of the OBD1 route is that the fuel and timing maps are correct for the vtec head.

 

This is what im probably going to do.

stay obd0 for now and use the pm6 ecu and obd0 distributor. but have the z6 head, intake, etc on it. and for now vtec wont engage. What fuel injectors would i need to use for this? the a6 one with the resistor box or the z6 ones without? I believe that is correct. fuel rail, etc? Say I do not buy an adjustable cam gear right now. How should I set the mechanical timing?

And then later on Ill convert to obd1 with a rywire kit and use the p28 ecu and the z6 distributor. and then get an adjustable cam gear. And ive heard that I will need a adjustable fuel pressure regulator, or will the z6 one work fine? Thanks for the replys.

 

Well, in that case, don't bother putting the head on until you have all your parts.
Vtec head with no vtec is not a great idea. It will suck and the small lobes weren't meant to produce power in the upper RPM.

you can use either injector setup as you described.

Z6 fuel rail.

You can skip the adju cam gear - better to save the $ for the OBD1 conversion.
Don't forget the 4-wire O2.

 

dont mean to thread jack or anything but can a y8 head be used with a a6 dizzy on a a6 block???

 

Did you accidentally type and submit the reply?
If not, then you meant to thread jack.

Yes, you can bolt the A6 distributor to the Y8 head.
However, it will not work with the OBD1 P28.

 

What If I stay obd0 with out vtec and stay in low rpms. Would it be safe to drive then untill I convert to obd1? And also, Stuff from rywire.

OBD0 to OBD1 ECU Conversion Harness
dizzy adapter: obd0 to obd1 $30
add vtec and 4 wire o2 plugs $55
for the d16z6
Total for that would be like $189 plus shipping.

I assume this is right.

And for the fpr. I guess the one from the z6 will work for now.

And timing belt question. I have a brand new a6 timing belt. Do I have to use one for the z6? Im guessing the one for the a6 will be to long.

 

fuccing KNUCKLE HEAD

 

bro, why don't you just stick with the A6 head until you get 200 for the conversion?

go to rywire and check out prices, or chasebays.

i wouldnt suggest you running a vtec head with no vtec, you could **** it up like that but if your going to, i wouldn't go past like 4k rpm to be safe.

and timing, search a bit. it's not hard to set the timing

 

Its actually a confusing story. lol. Im pretty sure the a6 head is going to need some valve work and also checked for levelness of the gasket surface and all that good stuff. And im going to get a good deal on all the stuff i need for the z6/mini me head swap. including the ecu and distributor and the intake manifold and acessories.

 

And also when/if I go threw with this head swap and if I dont have the vtec wired up Ill be sure to stay in low rpms till I do.

 

What If I stay obd0 with out vtec and stay in low rpms. Would it be safe to drive then untill I convert to obd1? And also, Stuff from rywire.

OBD0 to OBD1 ECU Conversion Harness
dizzy adapter: obd0 to obd1 $30
add vtec and 4 wire o2 plugs $55
for the d16z6
Total for that would be like $189 plus shipping.

I assume this is right.

And for the fpr. I guess the one from the z6 will work for now.

And timing belt question. I have a brand new a6 timing belt. Do I have to use one for the z6? Im guessing the one for the a6 will be to long.

 

use a 92-95 civic si/ex timing belt

 

Yeah thats what I thought. I was just wondering if the a6 belt was to long or whatever. lol.

 

get an adjustable fpr or 92-95 si...

and also you COULD (not recommended) wire vtec up to a switch and set it that way until you get enough money for a vtec controller. and you could (not recommended) run an a6 dizzy with only 2 bolts in it and a couple washers.

 

Yeah. I dont know what im gonna do at the moment. depends on how much money I can make and what not.

 

i just drilled out my top bolt on my a6 dizzy and got a VAFC works just fine...i dont recommend it though

 

Thats what I plan on doing for now. And then eventually go obd1 when the money comes. May I ask where you got your VAFC from and how much you paid for it? Ive seen ones on ebay for $150-200. Are they the real deal? but Im not to worried about that since im gonna go obd1.

 

Also, for some reason I was thinking that I had to have a d15b2 or some sort of head bolt to mount the z6 head to the a6 block. Is this true or can I just use the a6 bolts?

 

i used the z6 bolts, be sure to remove the check valve in the block between cylinders 2 and 3

 

^^ use the bolts for the head you are installing.
Different lengths