Didn't feel like typing everthing so I made a video lol I have spark and fuel. Resoldered the main relay. And check engine light stays on.

If you think I sound like a kid, it's because I am one so fvck off! lol
http://youtu.be/yeF7aRW3yHk

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

You need to check if you actually get fuel to the cylinders.
Were the spark plugs wet when you pulled them?
If the engine is getting all fuel, air, and spark, there is no reason for it not to turn over. Keeping idle is another story.

 

After posting this I checked the injectors by keeping them in the rail and having my friend turn the key, I had him crank it without pressing the clutch pedal so I wouldn't have a fire lol But I believe they should still squirt without actually cranking the engine right? I only had fuel pressure before the injectors because it shot an injecter out but they didn't spray.

Correct me if I am wrong about them working without the clutch in while turning the key.

 

OOOOOOHHHH DAMNNN


sounds like you dont have much compression! sound like my sohc with 345000 miles when it finally died and had 30psi compression! run a compression test! i bet you 50 bucks the numbers are low!!!!!!!! thats why its not starting. time for a swap

 

I don't think you had 30psi compression because of a worn piston ring. Either your valve, or your head gasket had a leak.

A compression test wouldn't hurt though...

Your injectors only spray when the main relay tells them to. They would not squirt just because of a key turn. You need the clutch pedal pressed in to have the whole process started.

I would recommend you try another main relay. Since you had problems before soldering the contacts, chances are it didn't fix it all.

 

If you have a check engine light why don't you check the codes..?

 

It was my rings i put oil in cylinders and up my readings went

 

Fuel. Thats what my car sounds like when I forget my switches.

Id replace the relay, sautering it might not have fixed it.

And whoever makes fun of you for being a kid, **** them! I Wish I was fixing cars when I was young. Props to you, don't give up. You will have a huge smile on your face when it starts up.


Also, doesnt matter if your foot is on the clutch or not, at least I dont think.

 

Thanks guys! I'm really hoping it's not compression, I've been putting off doing the test due to being scared of the results haha The block has around 202k with a rebuilt head.
And I did check the codes, like I stated in the video, it's only an ect code but I think it's because I left the ect connector unplugged last night on accident. And I have been thinking the main relay is probably still bad but it could also be the ecu that's causing the cel to stay on.

And seb, I am sooo looking forward to that feeling you get when the car finally starts!

 

WHen i rebuilt my 89 DA, it cranked for over 10 seconds before it fired up.

I really think its ur fuel. If you are getting spark and air, it has to be fuel. Just pull an injector out and get a buddy to crank it,

 

Fuel... Or compression. Crossing my fingers it's fuel lol I really don't feel like tearing this thig down again. If it is the injectors, I have two sets of stock DSM 450cc's from my talon build. I'll update tomorrow as soon as I find out! Thanks for the help!

 

Looks like I owe 10psiLSEF2 50 dollars hahah bad news bears today. Very bad bears...

http://youtu.be/1FNcdJvttpE

Cly1 Cyl2 Cyl3 Cyl4
30 25 125 150

Did a leak down test on the low cylinders, cyl 1 huge leak out exhaust valves, cyl 2 huge leak out of intake valves... FML!!! The messed up part is I bouth this head off someone as a "rebuilt" head....

 

Dude dont give up yet. Low compression could be from anything. Did you do a leakdown test?


Here is your best case scenario. The head is 'rebuild' but when he put it back together, he didnt adjust any of the valves, and just threw the rocker arms around randomly. It is possible that the valves aren't closing fully and are just letting all your compression out. DON'T GIVE UP MAN it happens. I can totally see this happening.

Take the valve cover off, check the valve lash, and repeat your test. Best of luck man, Im pretty sure shitty valve adjustments could totally void compression/leakdown testing.


EDIT: Motor can run even with 30 PSI compression. MY da had 180 30 180 180 on a burntexhaust valve and I drov eit for 600km from the mountains back home

 

Yea I wrote the leakdown test results right under the video lol one of the cylinders leaked out of exhaust valves, the other cylinder out of the intake valves. I was thinking it could be lash adjustment but I pretty much have the head off already lol I'm just gonna freshen everything up, and do a valve leak test (with water) to check every individual valve.

I'm not giving up just yet lol I've been through MUCH worse with my dsm over the past 4 years and I still have that thing lol

 

But hey, atleast it isn't the bottom end!!! lol god I hate cars!!

 

I had 30 psi across the board. Not enough psi combust . you know a engine 4 things. Spark.air.fuel.compression.

Dont use water get the head upside down and use gas. Water makes rust. And make sure you did the leak down test right! Top deD center on compression stroke since all valves should be closed during that stage

 

I'm ASE certified and work for the government fixing municipal vehicles, I know what I'm doing... lol Not trying to be rude or anything , just saying
And nothing will rust, you just pressurize the ports with air and look for bubbles, water doesn't get down into there.

 

Just patted myself on my back! Just rebuild the whole thing bro. Best best for a reliable car!

 

Paypal info so I can send you the $50? hahah jk. Yea that's what I'm going to do, get aftermarket valves (std.) and lap them until the seats are ok. And I have jg 301's already, so I'm thinking about doing springs and retainers but I eventually want to do ls/vtec so it kinda seems like a waste to do springs and stuff right now...

 

glad you used video man, hope you get ur car back up and running right

 

Thanks dude. Yea I use video to document progress, and because I know people don't read threads that are big paragraphs haha

 

Subd, I hope they check out and it was just the lash

 

Yea I'm crossing my fingers lol It's raining it's *** off in pa today though so i'm either gonna wait or man up and go set up one of the canapy tent things from my grad party and put it over the car hahaha

 

Da9... have you also confirmed correct timing? A quick check of crank marks against cam gears to make sure everything is lined up - and then a timing light to confirm that it's firing #1 somewhere close to whatever timing value that engine needs (12-17 BTDC?)...

If you have a voltmeter, you might be able to see pulses going to the injectors while you're trying to start - to confirm they're actually being told to fire by the ECU. Try both DC and AC (since it's a pulse), you should be able to see a fast change either way.

Lastly, it shouldn't turn over unless the clutch is depressed... there's a clutch interlock that should interrupt the starter.

I agree with the sentiments of others - age isn't an issue. Props to the bold!

Good luck

 

Thanks man! But yea I checked timing marks, plus I put a head on it a while ago and made sure it was lined up so they shouldn't have changed but I made sure anyway lol