Ok I think I want to get crower 402 or 403 cam gears.
In addition with them I will be getting the DC or skunk 2 cam gears. Other then that do I need any thing else. Such as a new ECU chip or SAFC. I heard you can run the 403's with out valve springs is that true? Thanks

 

New valve springs and retainers can't hurt.

 

402's: can run w/ oem springs and retainers
403's: it is highly recommended that stiffer springs and retainers be used.

A SAFC will also aid in tuning the vehicle and squeezing a few more ponies out of your setup.

Who are you letting do the install and tuning?

 

I'd get stiffer springs and retainers with either of them.

 

do the crower 402 cam gears even do that much. Like could they put me into GSR range with my I<E<H

 

There are no Crower 402 cam gears. There are Crower 62402 Crower cams, to which you should add gears to tune. I'd go with Skunk2 gears here, as they're cheaper and work perfectly in my experience.

Cams are a good step, provided you keep your expectations in perspective. I do not believe you will reach GSR type power with just those(or any other) cams. If I were you I'd be going with the 62403 cams instead. My thinking is if you're going to go this route do it for real. Change the cams, springs, & retainers. What you also must bear in mind is that with longer duration cams your dynamic compression will drop some. So you must adopt a long term goal for your car and stick to it. If you think there's any chance of your going for higher compression slugs later, then definately get the 62403s instead. They'll make more power than the 62402s now, but they'll really shine if you up the compression later.

 

The 402's will make power earlier in the rpm range at the expense of not making as much power in the top end as the 403's.
Comparatively speaking the 402 is more a mid range power booster and the 403 is more of a top end power booster.

Your question about "gsr range" is super vague.
Are you talking about peak whp? 1/4 mile?

with properly sized i/h/c/e and the 403's w/ all the goodies you should be puting down whp in the 150-140 range...........depending on how well you can tune the setup. Remember that the LS isn't a heavy breather so focusing on peak whp can be deceiving. The LS's strong suit is in the midrange.

Also the addition of a 2 layer head gasket to up the compression will also help you out but increase the project cost by 300-500 dollars.

 

im talking like 1/4 time. I want the 403's but I feel that i would need to spend that extra for valve springs and with the 402's i don't need them. so how much like extra hp will it give me and with my other set ups. I/h/e springs wheels/ tires should i take a stock gsr in the 1/4

 

i would go with the 403's and upgrade the springs and retainers. so you can up the rpms. Then get some gears(skunk2's imho) to tune them out right...

 

if you want power and if your gonna upgrade your valvetrain, damit! get crower 404 and make some real nice power! btw, i'm not too sure but i don't think 402 even makes a differance.

 

404's are awesome for top end......if you've raised your redline. But good luck w/ these on a daily driver/street setup. They have a really lumpy idle....and will tank any low/mid range power you have. For the drag strip only.....they're definitely the best.

To start spec racing and saying you can beat xyz car w/ abc mods isn't practical as there are many other variables in drag racing.

 

I seriously doubt if the idle is all that bad. People say the exact same thing about the 63403 Vtec cams. Most of these people have never actually used the Crower 63403 Vtec cams of course, just repeating what they've heard. I've been using the Crower 63403 Vtec cams for 8 months or so, and I can definitively say these people have no idea what they're talking about. Car idles fine. The only thing I did is cut the fuel at idle, -15%@1k via the Vafc. The same is true of the myth that your low and midrange will be total crap with long duration cams. Not so. You simply have to set your gears for what you want, and though there is some lost compression which is more noticable at lower RPMs, it's not nearly as bad as suggested. Plus if you decide to raise your C/R later you get a much bigger payoff from both the cams and the higher compression.

Sorry for the book. Peace.

 

TimoneX if u dont mind me askin wut do u have your cam gears set at. i know every car is different and u have to dyno to get the best results but i just wanna know if its not so much of a problem for u. its not my car im askin for its a buddy of mine thats goin wit a setup like your own. i rode in a car wit the 402vtec cams and it was pullin better than i expected but anyways thanx ahead of time.

 

I have 63403 Vtec cams. The best setting on the gears thus far has been +2.75I/+.5E. This seems to give me the best midrange performance of any settings I've tried thus far. For all out top-end or 1/4 mile sprints +2I/+1E seems to be the best.

 

so do you guys think if I got the crower 403 cam gears, dc cams gears, Fuel pressure regulator and got it tuned well I could take a gsr with an intake. I already have an AEM CAI, DC 4-2-1 Header, Apexi n1 exhaust, Eibach springs, rota slipstreams w/ falken azenis tires. As of right now I am about .6 off a stock gsr at the track. That was with out these wheels/tires when i went there i couldn't get traction with the stock tires so i hope to be only like .4 away from one. let me know

 

i would highly recommend gettting a set of titanium springs and retainers...since the springs will be facing more pressure from the higher lift of the cams ...also get sum adjustable cam gears like toda to tune the cams..also a new fpr..and a new fuel rail..hondata..


[Modified by allmotorls95, 8:43 PM 10/7/2002]