We just bought our 4th & 5th CRXs, both DX, a nice 88 keeper and a 90 rustbucket for a winter sacrificial lamb. Both bubbled in the radiators, but ran decent. On the nicer one, I ground/lapped valves and popped on new valve stem steals. Afterwards. it burned oil so bad, it filled 5000 sq ft shop in a minute. Compression 170-180, no bubbling in radiator and no blowby at all from oil filler cap.
Stuck that head on the beater and it too started burning oil profusely. Yanked that suspect head off, cleaned up old original head & block then reinstalled with new head gasket. Compression 140-150 on all 4 now, which is what the three good cylinders had originally. No more bubbling in the radiator. It too now burns oil so bad, no traffic will not follow and I get choked up at stoplights. Big blueish clouds of smoke that just hang there for minutes. Real embarassing.
I had plugged vacuum lines with golf tees and even plugged the hose to brake booster eliminating any possible external stray source of oil. Even pulled out my trusty 50 year old Allstate vacuum gauge but vacuum is rock steady.
With over 170psi compression and no blowby in the '88, it would appear the rings are not the problem, but I yanked the pistons out anyway, to rule out rings- all pistons & bores are clean/smooth, all rings are shiny and very springy, with uniform edges- look good as new. There's no carbon buildup in ring grooves as would be expected in an engine burning oil for any long period, and there's no sticking whatsoever, free as can be.
Since the head, pan & pistons are already removed, new rings/bearings/gaskets are ordered, but there's no expectation the oil burning will be eliminated.
I've spent hours browsing the archives here, and most first guesses are that head gaskets are responsible for oil burning. First of all, these cylinders are surrounded by coolant, not oil; sucking oil past the headgasket is near impossible. And with 170+ psi compression and no telltale bubbles in coolant, guess again.
The other most popular guess is rings, but as I said, with "as new" compression, no blowby and pristine rings/grooves, take another guess.

If there are any Ace mechanics out there reading this, I challenge you to point out the inconspicuous oil source that plagues a lot of smoking Hondas.

 

Why do you call the obvious signs/assumptions made by forums not pertaining to your specific problems ignorant? Did you use a straight edge to check the surfaces on both the head and block? While understating that there is a water jacket surrounding the cylinders, that doesn't rule out possible oil problems. Internal parts do crack, and one would be amazed what happens with temperatures over 1,000* F will do... Given, typically that results in coolant problems, it's not definite. I assume since you are competent enough to pull the engine apart, you had the gull to do a leak-down test? That would have most likely shown your problem from the begining. Unless all the bases are covered, it's hard to sit behind a screen and give a solid solution, unless random guesses are what you're after?

Not trying to lecture you, but while some problems can relate on vehicles... most are a case by case ordeal and you can't assUme things until ALL the bases are covered.

 

did you make sure you pushed the new valve guide seals all the way down

 

Speaking of which, they do make a special tool for removal and installation of the valve stem seals... Improvising can be done to get the job completed but one runs the risk of damaging the seals...