How's it going guys/gals?

I'm planning on going with a different setup for my Civic. I have a B18C1 in my 00 EK hatchback and I'm looking for more power with an N/A setup. I've done a lot of reading and searching about the H2B and the setup has got me interested. I was wondering if any of you H2B owners could share some experiences with your car such as: 1/4 mile time, mods, and how the power and torque is like.

Thank you guys for your time and reading.

 

What's stopping you? It's the most cost-efficient way to go N/a and do it well.

A rule of thumb is that b-series engines really hit a wall at ~190whp and 140tq with bolt ons and a good set of cams.

A stock h22 with bolt ons, and no cams are easily putting down 220whp and 160tq.

You can't bolt on .4L of displacement to a b-series, you can however bolt a good b-series transmission to an h22.

What are you expecting? What is stopping you? There are hundreds of pages of happy h2b owners in the hybrid and all motor forums.

There is really nothing you can say against an h2b if you're looking at going n/a. Period, it's the same work as b-series swap but .4L more displacement.

I'm really having trouble grasping the vagueness of your question.

 

I like my h2b, I was orignally going to go B series but so glad I didn't. Stock long block with skunk2 intake manifold+the other usual bolt ons put down 218/165 on a mustang dyno. Runs consistant 12.1-12.2s in the quarter driven to and from the track, never had a break down, drive it all the time. Installing Pro1 cams over the winter and should go 11s with ease. Best bang for the buck NA swap there is.

 

Nice to hear im also interested in doin an h2b setup how ever i plan on building my head

 

Thank you for sharing. Are you using stock B-series axles?

 

If you're asking the question based on axle-reliability issues that plague normal h22 swaps, it's a non-issue with b swaps.

Aftermarket axles are not necessary for moderate (250+whp) h2b builds.

I've seen plenty of d-series on stock axles with 300-350whp.

 

I've heard very good things about the setup, and watched some youtube vids that were pretty promising as well.

I'm actually in the process of building an H2B ek right now. I've got the H22A with a b16 trans out of an EM1, and just picked up a quaife lsd for it. I'm going to do an LS 5th gear swap so I can cruise down the highway, then maybe light it up at the track. So can I expect to get into the 12s with my pretty much stock setup on street tires? I'll also be running a comp stage 1.5 clutch and aluminum flywheel.

 

If you're a well seasoned drag racer you might see 12's with some slicks on a stock h2b. Tunern00b had a mostly stock h2b getting mid 12's on slicks. I doubt you'd get there with street tires.

Seat time > engine applies to more than just autocross.

We can't guess your quarter mile times, mostly because we can't be sure if you're a bad driver or not, if the engine is running properly or not, elevation, humidity, tires, transmission gearing, pavement, etc.

You get the idea.

 

ek hatch
h22a
brian crower valve train.
skunk 2 cams
bisi header
euro manifold.
bfg tires

12.3

 

yes, he's on stock axles. I made 233whp on mine but had terrible luck at the track. Running the same times as I did when I made 217whp.

 

Yes I understand there are alot of variables, I just read above where someone mentioned running low 12s and driving it to the track. Sounded pretty quick for an H2B with bolt ons, but if running slicks I guess I could see that. And thank you, you answered my question, kind of gave me an idea of what to expect from my H2B.

 

I drive it to the track and put my slicks on. 12s are pretty much a guarantee on slicks with a stock h2b, you would have to be a terrible driver or a very heavy car to not get it. Prob won't happen on street tires but I guess its possible. I ran 12.5 with my h2b with the stock manifold and an ebay tri y. Got a better header and put the skunk2 manifold on now I run consistent low 12s like I said before. 2200lbs with driver.

 

What size throttle body do you run? I happened to get an oversized one with my engine, but the manifold is all stock so it's kind of pointless. When I get it running and drive it a bit I'm planning to later do a cam upgrade and maybe open up the stock manifold a bit, or get an aftermarket one. Don't really want to do any head work as of right now, but I think that combination would help it to breath better.

 

Lots of h22 guys use 70mm throttle bodies on stock engines, one of the best upgrades you can get out of the box. Opening the stock manifold to match any aftermarket TB is a must, not something you can reserve for later.

 

I rock a professional products 68mm tb. I still need to get it port matched, I believe the S2 manifold is 70mm so it'll end up being something like that.

 

About 8 years ago I had a H22 Civic M2B4 tranny on Nitrous. Couldn't squeeze in first off the line or the axle would snap. Even times I ran it on the motor it snapped axles. I had heard of people trying to or obviously doing a H2B plate.

Finally in 2005 I heard about QSD, they started shipping out that first batch and got one. Put and ITR tranny on it. Never broke an axle for the next couple years and shifting was the same as any B Series car. Could squeeze directly off the line.

Do it, there's more tranny options and overall it just works really well.

 

Well my plan is to get it running and driving first (it's really my first swap), so when it runs and drives I will start to tweak things such as that. Really though, is there really that much to gain from just opening up the manifold to match the throttle body? I would think it would be almost pointless without opening up the rest of the manifold a bit. I know the H manifold has the butterflies in it, so I wasn't planning to get real carried away with opening things up, especially without a ported head to accompany it.

 

i had a h2b in my em1 with type r trans for a while. very fun, intant power and awsome accleration even it being a stock h22. only thing i didnt like was having to shave the block so much.. had to take out oil pan bolts to clear my axles. but all in all happy.

 

You don't actually have to shave the block with the evolution kit do you?
I was planning to get that kit instead of the qsd because I'm very picky and want a very clean install, plus that gives more hood clearance, correct?

 

That's probably the biggest drawback I noticed and maybe the hood, but never had leaks.

 

Thanks for the info. Did the oil pan ever leak by where you had the bolts off?

 

This makes me want to get one.

 

evo kit = shifting problems but u get hood clearance
qsd = no trany related problems or motor problem just perfect... the shaving of the block wont cuase no leakage watso ever if u take ur time and do it right. only people who get leaks are people who just go crazy on that ****.

qsd all day. but if u want evo that all you. no one stoping you.

i got a stock h2b small bolts on and love it. way more torque than any b series ive owned

cant wait to put my fully built h2b boost. that should b fun. but that for 2012 season

 

sorry,
if you want a perfect H2B kit, you must do this thing with the QSD kit:

make a ring like on the picture (put between the bearing and the spacer) and make a pin on the spacer:

a new pin that pierces the spacer


a new hole into the crankshaft at the place of the stock pin


and a hole in the flywheel for the other side of the pin.

without this new pin, bolts can get away or brake. (loctite is not enough...)

and a new ring for correct the defect of the spacer


a photo with the bearing and without the ring. a big difference.
without the ring, the flywheel can't centered perfectly on the crankshaft (3/10mm axial error) and your clutch won't live no long time and 'cause a bad balancing (with the wrong place of the flywheel, always), you can destroy your oil pump...


and you must balance your cranckshaft with accessories (pulley, flywheel, spacer, etc...) for 9500rpm safety.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...612390&page=11










without, you can destroy your oil pump (again) quickly.


those 2 transformations are absolutely necessary for a good assembly and a good reliability (my H22 turbo revs to 9500rpm)

 

That post has now made me paranoid....