resolved. DELETE

 

Is that electrical tape holding the intake piping on?
Why are you running an Integra throttlebody?

 

Check the TPS? I see no sense in running a larger throttlebody without getting a proper tune for it.

 

I got this from my buddy who is a Honda tech on ecu relearning procedures, hopefully it helps, I've done mine like this every time.

I copied and pasted this from another site, but this is exactly how my buddy explained it, I have it written down in my FSM, but found it easier to copy and paste, then to re-type the whole thing.

step 1: take your car for a brisk drive to get the motor to operating temperature.

step 2: take your car home, and take the fuse for the ecu out. it'll more times than not be labeled, but on civics and integras it's under the hood for sure. wait 15 minutes.

step 3: put the fuse back in.

step 4: turn the car on. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING. GIVE IT NO GAS. let the car idle for roughly 15 minutes, or until the car is idling smooth at lower rpm's.

step 5: turn the ignition off. ONCE AGAIN, DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE KEY. immediately turn the ignition back on after you have gone to full off. this will store the new settings your ecu has made.

These steps will properly reset your ecu. After they are accomplished go do whatever, the new settings have been stored.

 

I think the ecus on hondas are just pieces of ****. I also have an unsolvable idle problem and have read and tried practically everything there is except a new ecu. Swap in a new ecu and see if the problem stops. Thats what im gonna do. No one ever mentions it, yet a few that have, say its fixed their idling bullshit. Ive never had a car with such idling problems as this honda i have... Ive changed every single part on the car except the ecu and it STILL idles like a piece of **** when its warm. Mine has a dc header with new gaskets and the idle is the same ****. Its not your header...

 

The ecu reset procedure adjusts it to set "new values" yet then the problem comes right back everytime. The ecu "relearn" does nothing and never has. Which seems to me like the ecu just cant hold an idle on these cars. Seems they need some type of reflash that no one ever received. As soon as people chip their ecus the car idle usually evens right out... hmmm. But why would i chip a stock car ? I wouldnt..

 

Do you have new tb and im gaskets?

 

Have you tried just setting the base idle? and yes vacuum leaks cause a higher idle. I just changed my intake manifold gasket and it did NOTHING haha. (big waste of time) Does your car idle low all around? when warm? If so adjust the base idle and then make sure the tps is adjusted.Tps changes when you change the base idle. (i fixed a stalling problem idle dive on my car doing this) Yet i still have an idle surge ..

 

I've never had an idle problem with any of the numerous Honda's I've owned in the last 20 years, that couldn't be explained by a faulty sensor, gasket, etc.

And on top of that have never had an ECU go bad or had one chipped. A bad ECU is just that, a bad ecu that wont even start the car.

 

Mmkay then what explains a surging idle when ive changed everything sensor wise multiple times, have all new vacuum lines, gaskets and grounds? Nobody could prove an ecu couldnt just have a bad idle control problem but the rest is fine?

 

What could explain it? Substandard replacement parts not within the exact specs Honda uses. I've always used genuine Honda parts and once a problem showed up, properly diagnose the problematic part and replace it with a part from Honda, not the generic parts store crap.

 

I didnt come here to argue but your quote above was quite amateurish. You claimed " a bad ecu is one that wont even start the car" Thats funny considering my girlfriends car had a stuck open injector and after all tests on the engine, fuel system , electrical, etc of the car, it turned out to be the ecu. The car started fine and drove fine but had fuel leaking out of the exhaust pipe. Its been 2 years and have never had a problem since the new ecu. So you have 20 years experience supposedly and claim an ecu is bad only when the car wont start? I came here to get information and share information but you sound like you just spit rehashed false info you've heard online. I have 2 years experience with cars, you have over 20. You're like the guy that plays guitar in the music store who can barely belt out a nirvana song and has been playing for 14 years. For some people its just not meant to be. : )

 

I'm not going to get into this with you kid.

My experience with bad ecu's is just that "MY" experience. I've had one bad ecu.

As far as your childish comments, That's your opinion and if you took a second to search around, I've forgotten more about working on Honda's than you'll ever know junior.

Jeremy, good luck with figuring this out, but I'm bowing out because you obviously have the guru in here helping you now.

 

how's your fuel pressure? check the o2?

 

And notice the idle relearn has done nothing? lulz. Check your tps with a "multimedia" And adjust it if you've never messed with it before then its probably fine. No cels? And yes a tps would make it jumpy "throttle position sensor" Switch one out and see if it helps.. Have friends with hondas? I know tlarimer is in lurkmode but its ok because ive actually fixed everything on my entire car other than a piece of **** idle. So i must know nothing. 20 years makes you an expert not actual knowledge or anything.

compression test? leak down test? coolant leaks = gayness and idle problems. Water pipe o rings, intake manifold gasket etc can have a slight leak putting air into cooling system. Did you adjust your idle??????? you didnt answer what it idled at when warm and not moving. If its low raise it up and recheck tps sensor. Funny i've done all this on my car and have fixed stalling problems but never a hunting idle. But you're stalling...

 

Def get rid of the ebay headers, make sure you use the right o2 sensor and check that gasket or get a new one.

There might be an ECU issue, it is interesting since you did the reset and it seemed fine, that makes me think as the ECU was re adjusting itself it and picked up the problem that is existing somewhere.

 

I vote for ecu too. You've just done too much for it not to be that or the timing. This is what im looking into on my car for my hunting warm idle. If all this fails get someone to check it with a labscope. That will find the voltage/sensor drop for sure. Its what im gonna do !

 

careful sounding like an expert yourself, you can't even spell multimeter right.

 

labscope = end of all intermittent horse ****, money wasting, waste of time.

 

Do you see it in quotes? you have severe comprehension problems dude. It was sarcasm. I shouldnt sound remotely smart because you cant read properly or interpret anything? ok. Check out my signature.

 

These older Honda's will not have a "perfect idle" even when new my car did not idle perfect.

The newer ones seem to idle much better.

I hate to say this, but Honda's do not like mods, so you will have to deal with a less than perfect idle.

 

Good to know motegicivic. Case closed for me!

 

On your car does the tach jump and the car has a slight shake? or just looking at the tach it moves but the car sits still?

 

I was referring to both of you guys, the jerking is def an idle issue, sometimes people look at the tach and see it jump and think they have an idle issue.

 

I am curious about the headers now, see if that works, if not you might have to go the ECU route.